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Posts posted by Ryengoth

  1. The turn signal switch was acting up when I was testing the electrical re-install. I guess broken solder joints on the slider would cause problems. Went ahead and refreshed the wire contact joints on all the parts. Have to do the other half next and then toss some paint on the housing.


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  2. Since the engine work is on hold I finished up the carb rebuild and reassembly. I had a struggle to get a good butterfly and proper shaft for #1. Most of the butterfly screws stripped or sheared off. I either ended up ruining the threads drilling out the screws or destroying the butterfly trying to get it out of the damaged shaft slot. I managed to get all the pieces needed back in place and even got the plugs out of the idle mix screw tubes and cleaned the idle mix screws. The o-rings were skinny plastic discs instead of o-rings so they needed to be replaced a long time ago. Some shiny new screws here and there will finish it off before it goes back on. Time for wet set and bench sync/adjustments.








     I managed to get 3 of the 4 carbs rebuilt. One needs to have the bowl painted still. Dunno how I ended up with 3 rights and 1 left. #4 has paint curing. Hope to have the rack reassembled this weekend. The engine rebuild is on hold until funds allow for new rings and cylinder O-rings.



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  4. Engine is back apart. Cam shims are all over the place in spec. Gonna have to try a few bucket/shim combinations before I order a bunch of 240/245/250/255 shims. #4 rings were stuck polishing up 2 vertical spots. #3 was stuck as well but nothing showed on the cylinder walls. Looks like I get to pull the pistons, clean the ringlands and re-ring the pistons again.

  5. The BrakeMasters kit includes everything including a bleeder. Cheaper than OEM by a long-shot and the bleeder is looking battered. 

     More progress. Located a complete carb set on eBay for $110USD, typically going for $250-400. All I need is carb 4 body, but just a refreshed body is $100. Taper bearings on the way for the head stock.






  6. Similar, except you must counter-sink the hole for the insert flange to sit flush. Drill, counter-sink, tap and screw in with the install tool. Use a little anti-seize on the install tool to prevent it from grabbing. The plain steel inserts are phos coated. The stainless steel inserts are pricey but on critical, external mounts, I always use those instead of the cheaper plain steel. For a an internal engine thread repair, the steel is fine.

    After installing a bunch of both I have extremely biased opinion that differs from others. The FAA in the US considers the Heli-Coil an approved thread repair for aircraft engines. Time-Sert is not listed. That said, I've pulled plenty of them out of the metal torquing down bolts and had to go up a size to repair with a Time-Sert. I have never had a Time-Sert fail and when I install with red Loctite threadlocker they always withstand repeated removal and re-torques. Use anti-seize on the new bolt you install, though. I exclusively use the stainless steel M10 x 20mm in 6061 subframe sway bar adapters I designed and produced for swapping the Genesis Sedan rear subframe into the Coupe for drag racing. I've seen axles snap but never one of my adapters fail. Everyone has a preference and most people prefer Heli-Coil.

    Thinking about it, I suspect one of the main reasons Time-Sert is not on the approval list by FAA is that they are a solid insert. The Heli-Coil can be easily removed if it wears or is damaged.  If the the Time-Sert bonded to the parent metal via galvanic binding then it may have to be milled out. Heli-Coil can be grabbed and ripped out without too much damage to the retaining threads. Again, personal preference and application. I know builders that swear by the them and won't use a Time-Sert. Personally, I've had them pull out threads due to un-even thread pressure. 

    What i would recommend is to use a Time-Sert where the install is considered permanent and won't likely be touched again except for a major component repair. If the fastener is going to be removed and reinstalled a lot I would consider a Heli-Coil since you can easily replace it if it wears or gets damaged. For the valve cover I only had 6mm Time-Serts in the shop so that's what I used. I have plenty of 10mm Heli-Coils that I rarely use.


    Looks like it'll be a full piston kit on this caliper now. After multiple torchings and beatings the piston came out. Was hoping to salvage the piston, but after measuring the seal depths and piston there is too much pitting and tool damage near the pressure seal. boo.. Looks like I will be ordering a BrakeMasters complete kit. At least it will be good for another 40 years after this.







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  7. Waiting on some new cap nuts for the head studs and then it'll be ready for install. One valve cover hole had no threads, so had to repair with a time-sert. It felt like the opposite, diagonal corner screw wanted to pull out too when I installed the cover. I may be doing it again on that one.



    The replacement tank is almost rust-free. A few spots here or there.



    The donor front rim is done. New bearings and seals installed, ready for the tire.



    The front caliper is not so good. If I can actually get the piston out I may rebuild it. Otherwise, used donor will be located soon.



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  8. Yeah... it's all the way in, at an angle. I can actually see into the hole threads on the other side here. Someone must have used a rattle gun, with no F's given on it, because the head sheared off when I used a wimpy 1/2" ratchet on it. I used the TIG to weld a large bung on the end and locking pliers just rips the weld into shreds. ?  WHYYYYY..  Another used XJ550 front wheel is on the way. I'll mess with this one later for a spare. If I try to drill it out now I'll get annoyed and end up ruining the rim.


  9. Everything is in OE spec except for 2 of the wrist pins, just a tiny amount of play in the rod. Nothing I'm concerned about. Got it all set and ended up bending a ring on #4. The lower combustion ring shifted and stuck out when I bumped the cylinder down. Everything looked fine on my side, the other side not so great. Waiting on a new ring set for it now. So sick of these little hold-ups!!


  10. The 4 studs from NL are in and correct. The studs between 1-2 and 3-4 are new and the front ones have the plastic sheath for rust protection. #4 outer look fine since they've been in oil all their lives. I could not find the other 2 with the plastic so I just ordered the rear ones to justify the shipping costs. 5 more studs to order and it'll be ready to torque the head down.



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  11. Now it's the front's turn. Forks coming apart soon and wheel will be done like the rear.A3NQdz1.jpg

    The speedo assembly is apart and liberated of 35 year-old waxy grease. Polished the thrust washers and has a coat of frame paint curing. Brake caliper will probably be next.


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  12. Coming along. New rear bearings, sprocket and rubber. Polished the rear tail setup and the RH shock assembly. Shocks are in great shape. Going to start on the front tubes and wheel next. Engine has 4 new studs, needs 5 more before I can reassemble and paint the case.


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  13. 1 hour ago, blackhat250 said:

    Great job Ryen" ,,?     Hey.  i"v been to Elizebeth City , N/C.     ,and cape Hatteras ,  you near ?


      I live on the coast about an hour north of Myrtle Beach South Carolina. We are about 4.5 hours south of Cape Hatteras on the Outer Banks of North Carolina. We are about 10 minutes from the beach in Carolina Beach and a large stone throws distance from Cape Fear River. We had some flooding during the last hurricane but our current house survived it all with hardly no damage. Others west in Brunswick county did not fair as well with major flooding and total losses. ?cape hatteras.jpg

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