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Ryengoth

YOC Member
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Ryengoth last won the day on March 18

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About Ryengoth

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 01/18/1974

Previous Fields

  • Current Bike(s)
    1982 XJ550 Maxim

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wilmington, North Carolina
  1. It really is an amazing and cheap treatment for bearing surfaces. The racing and motorsports industries have been using them for over 10 years to gain an edge in performance. I learned about them from researching how to increase the valve train rev limit from 6500 to 7500 on my 2013 Genesis Coupe 3.8 GDi turbo build project. With the OEM flat-tappet lifter design there was an inherent rotational limit due to friction heat as well as lifter slop at higher revs. I never finalized my head testing but based on the engineering specs; the Ferrea valve springs (40+ lbs each over stock), high-zinc synthetic oil and WPC treated cam surfaces I would be able to hit 7500 without issue even under 25psi boost.
  2. I have more shiny stuff to post when I get a chance to resize them. The website does not like 4000 pixel images. Heh.
  3. Frame has been treated and had the first coat of poly frame spray put on. #1 to 3 carbs have been stripped and painted. I need to find a body for #4 since someone broke the idle tube off. Carbs will be rebuilt with new parts as needed including new butterfly shaft seals. The clutch pack looks original and still has life. No signs of case cracks so far. I also attached a WPC treatment comparison of a polished versus WPC cam lobe and journal.
  4. It does help some with surface tension but mainly it reduces the surface area of the metal without changing the physical geometry. It also helps with friction reduction by providing better oil layer tension, but alone it reduces surface friction by at least 50%. It's cheap insurance for raw bearing surfaces, especially when dissimilar metals are in contact.
  5. Since this is a May production in 1981 it has the short VIN on the head stock not the full, even though the date code says 1982. They must have changed it in June 1981 for the rest of the production runs.
  6. Frame is ready for some sanding and rust treatment. I'm going to try to get a replacement headstock sticker since the frame and engine #s match. What's odd is that the frame and engine only has the model # and last several VIN digits, not the whole USA VIN like I've seen on other XJs. Valve cover is done. Then I found this fun stuff in the carbs.
  7. Lots of work is done and still to be done. The head and valves have been cleaned, new stem seals installed and valves lapped in. Cams will be here tomorrow and I'll finish the head rebuild. Engine has been cleaned about 50% and will be reassembled soon. The frame has been disassembled completely and is ready for sanding and paint. Someone broke the idle tube off for carb #4 so gotta find a replacement body and another idle jet. The other 3 have been cleaned and waiting for #4 before a carb kit is installed. I started on the gas tank with the stud dent gun and ended up chasing a hole with the TIG until I gave up. Too much rust causing burn-through so I'm working on a parts order for a bunch of parts including an undented tank, full harness, headlight trim, full lock set and various other stuff.
  8. Valves are in with new Viton seals and ready for the camshafts. WPC shipped the cam and I should have it early next week to finish the head work. Well, the frame is almost ready. The plan is to replace the harness since someone chopped it up. I'm going to get a replacement headstock sticker since all of the stamps match on the bike. I think for the time savings and durability I will get the local powder coater to handle the frame. I need to pull the head apart anyway and check all of the bearings. I'll eventually get around to the forks and front wheel assembly but I want to get the engine done and rear wheel done first.
  9. Head cleaning and valve lapping is done. Valve cover is curing after hammer and gloss treatment. Some more sanding and final clear coating is next. The fuel tank had a blowout with the mig trying to weld screws to pop dents. I chased it with the TIG for over an hour and gave up. Too much rust inside, too thin of a wall. I'm looking for a donor tank now that has a few dents to strip and repaint. I'll get back to this tank one day and put a huge weld wart over the holes, preferably after my patience returns. I have a stud gun now to avoid this in the future.
  10. This is before I removed the gaskets and cleaned the exhaust ports. I'll post another pic tonight after the other 4 valves are lapped. I would have preferred to get it walnut media blasted but I'm also on a budget. I have a soda gun but it wastes more than it cleans on stuff with this many pockets and deep grooves. I want to spend as little as possible where I can without sacrificing the longevity and safety. $120 for the cam treating versus $120 for a media blasting, I'll do the cams. :) Yes, it was time consuming to clean the head this way but also satisfying to see it come clean. New exhaust studs, exhaust gaskets and head o-rings are on order. The blasting would have ruined the stem seals as well, but after lapping the first 4 valves only one gave any kind of resistance. So, they're all getting replaced anyway. Better safe than sorry for a cheap rubber part eh?
  11. The used head is almost done with cleaning. The combustion domes and exhaust ports had a good .5mm of solid carbon. Some CRC GDi intake cleaner, a cordless drill and some small wire brushes did the trick. The valves cleaned up just fine and I've just lapped in cyl 1 and 2.
  12. After a LOT of degreaser, a messy driveway cleaning and a few shop rags the chain lube grime goo and road splatter are gone. New chain in-hand. Might try to polish the shock springs once I disassemble the rear sway arm setup. It's all getting sanded, rust treatment and then a coat of gloss black frame paint. I used some of the frame and roll cage paint recently on some auto subframe braces and it survived some "adjustment" hammering surprisingly so it should last a long time on the bike frame. The chrome is in surprisingly good condition. The undersides of the chain guard and rear fender support need some attention while off the bike. The signal stems are also in-hand and waiting for the frame to be painted. Everyone uses black vinyl tape don't they? :D Front and rear wheels look in good shape. Rear needs a bit of brushing and buffing before paint. New sprocket in-hand. Will see how bearings are. They feel fine pushing the bike around but need to make sure they aren't worn too much. Something always refuses to get clean! Well the stem bearing has no cover, so who knows what the races are like. Guess I'll be pulling the head apart. I hope the bearings aren't bad because that's quite a bit of cash. If it's packed full of old gooey grease it should just need a clean and repack, with new covers.
  13. I am buying the XJ lot from him and will have them converted. The 650/750 is a 2-card set. He may have XJ owners manuals too, waiting to find out what he has. If anyone else wants in, let me know by listing the series and/or model. He also has other makes available if you have an interest in other Japanese bike brands.
  14. Hey folks, I picked up a 1982 XJ service manual microfiche card and am going to have it digitized into a searchable PDF. Is there anyone else that has Microfiche that would like to have it converted? It will be more cost effective to do a set of cards instead of just 1 or 2. Attached is the microfiche card I'm sending off. It is in great shape. Here is the eBay seller a few hours away that's selling the cards, he has a bunch of models available for around $6 each. I will purchase the card and arrange for digital conversion for you. The PDF will be sent via email as soon as the conversion is completed and postal mail delivery of the card if you want it. Once I have a gauge as to the number of cards I can get a total per-card conversion price for everyone involved. .https://www.ebay.com/str/tiredironclassics/Microfiche-Cards/_i.html?_storecat=13055027012 Let me know what year/model you are interested in getting a parts/service manual for and I'll put a list together. I have contacted the seller and awaiting to find out if he will entertain a bulk purchase of the cards he has. I also asked for a list of what types of cards and for which models if there is one. Easier to review that than a bunch of eBay listings.
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