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Everything posted by Ryengoth

  1. I've threatened to part it out 3 times now... I hate these pistons. My expenses grow, but not the project progress. This is the 4th time one has slipped out and bent beyond re-use.
  2. 24-hour heavy soak in Armor All and then a rub-n-rinse in hot water. Pliable and soft again. A LOT of dirt came out of the pores, the protectant/cleaner did a good job cleaning without breaking the vinyl down. Another 24-hour soak is in progress to restore some more of the plasticizers, then I'll apply either lanolin or vinyl conditioner to seal it all and let it fully dry before buffing it out. I'm hoping it'll look like shiny new leather! Looks like I'll need one repair on the tail for staples, but it'll be hidden. The rest is good to go for re-install, with a little jute padding on the top of the seat foam. The brown color is from the cleaner in the pores. As the vinyl dries it returns to black.
  3. Seat pan and foam are in great shape. Keeping it. The seat cover split at the passenger riser panel. Hand stitched it back together, double-stitch. Added some 3M yellow goo and new vinyl to take the stretch stress off the panel seam.
  4. Front brake has new pads and new fluid. No leaks. Fuse box finally starting causing issues with the clips breaking. This will work for now.
  5. Power House caliper piston rebuild kit is done. Need new pads, though.
  6. Headlight bucket has been buffed outside and treated inside for rust. Shined up nicely. The throttle control assembly has been rebuilt and painted as well.
  7. The turn signal switch was acting up when I was testing the electrical re-install. I guess broken solder joints on the slider would cause problems. Went ahead and refreshed the wire contact joints on all the parts. Have to do the other half next and then toss some paint on the housing.
  8. The XJ 550 Maxim does. I don't know if the 650 or 750 does, I've not looked at the parts diagram.
  9. Since the engine work is on hold I finished up the carb rebuild and reassembly. I had a struggle to get a good butterfly and proper shaft for #1. Most of the butterfly screws stripped or sheared off. I either ended up ruining the threads drilling out the screws or destroying the butterfly trying to get it out of the damaged shaft slot. I managed to get all the pieces needed back in place and even got the plugs out of the idle mix screw tubes and cleaned the idle mix screws. The o-rings were skinny plastic discs instead of o-rings so they needed to be replaced a long time ago. Some shiny new screws here and there will finish it off before it goes back on. Time for wet set and bench sync/adjustments.
  10. I managed to get 3 of the 4 carbs rebuilt. One needs to have the bowl painted still. Dunno how I ended up with 3 rights and 1 left. #4 has paint curing. Hope to have the rack reassembled this weekend. The engine rebuild is on hold until funds allow for new rings and cylinder O-rings.
  11. Project on hold due to funds.
  12. Engine is back apart. Cam shims are all over the place in spec. Gonna have to try a few bucket/shim combinations before I order a bunch of 240/245/250/255 shims. #4 rings were stuck polishing up 2 vertical spots. #3 was stuck as well but nothing showed on the cylinder walls. Looks like I get to pull the pistons, clean the ringlands and re-ring the pistons again.
  13. Starter rebuilt It's back on rubber again. Just need to tweak the fork tubes and tighten it all down.
  14. Well that explains where the assembly lube was coming from. The shop crane incident actually did have a casualty. A used one is on the way and I have spare gaskets luckily.
  15. The load test actually bent the press table, that's what was cracking. The powder coat was cracking and popping off. There is a video of this specific test, I just need to find it.
  16. The BrakeMasters kit includes everything including a bleeder. Cheaper than OEM by a long-shot and the bleeder is looking battered. More progress. Located a complete carb set on eBay for $110USD, typically going for $250-400. All I need is carb 4 body, but just a refreshed body is $100. Taper bearings on the way for the head stock.
  17. Similar, except you must counter-sink the hole for the insert flange to sit flush. Drill, counter-sink, tap and screw in with the install tool. Use a little anti-seize on the install tool to prevent it from grabbing. The plain steel inserts are phos coated. The stainless steel inserts are pricey but on critical, external mounts, I always use those instead of the cheaper plain steel. For a an internal engine thread repair, the steel is fine. After installing a bunch of both I have extremely biased opinion that differs from others. The FAA in the US considers the Heli-Coil an approved thread repair for aircraft engines. Time-Sert is not listed. That said, I've pulled plenty of them out of the metal torquing down bolts and had to go up a size to repair with a Time-Sert. I have never had a Time-Sert fail and when I install with red Loctite threadlocker they always withstand repeated removal and re-torques. Use anti-seize on the new bolt you install, though. I exclusively use the stainless steel M10 x 20mm in 6061 subframe sway bar adapters I designed and produced for swapping the Genesis Sedan rear subframe into the Coupe for drag racing. I've seen axles snap but never one of my adapters fail. Everyone has a preference and most people prefer Heli-Coil. Thinking about it, I suspect one of the main reasons Time-Sert is not on the approval list by FAA is that they are a solid insert. The Heli-Coil can be easily removed if it wears or is damaged. If the the Time-Sert bonded to the parent metal via galvanic binding then it may have to be milled out. Heli-Coil can be grabbed and ripped out without too much damage to the retaining threads. Again, personal preference and application. I know builders that swear by the them and won't use a Time-Sert. Personally, I've had them pull out threads due to un-even thread pressure. What i would recommend is to use a Time-Sert where the install is considered permanent and won't likely be touched again except for a major component repair. If the fastener is going to be removed and reinstalled a lot I would consider a Heli-Coil since you can easily replace it if it wears or gets damaged. For the valve cover I only had 6mm Time-Serts in the shop so that's what I used. I have plenty of 10mm Heli-Coils that I rarely use. Looks like it'll be a full piston kit on this caliper now. After multiple torchings and beatings the piston came out. Was hoping to salvage the piston, but after measuring the seal depths and piston there is too much pitting and tool damage near the pressure seal. boo.. Looks like I will be ordering a BrakeMasters complete kit. At least it will be good for another 40 years after this.
  18. Waiting on some new cap nuts for the head studs and then it'll be ready for install. One valve cover hole had no threads, so had to repair with a time-sert. It felt like the opposite, diagonal corner screw wanted to pull out too when I installed the cover. I may be doing it again on that one. The replacement tank is almost rust-free. A few spots here or there. The donor front rim is done. New bearings and seals installed, ready for the tire. The front caliper is not so good. If I can actually get the piston out I may rebuild it. Otherwise, used donor will be located soon.
  19. Yeah... it's all the way in, at an angle. I can actually see into the hole threads on the other side here. Someone must have used a rattle gun, with no F's given on it, because the head sheared off when I used a wimpy 1/2" ratchet on it. I used the TIG to weld a large bung on the end and locking pliers just rips the weld into shreds. ? WHYYYYY.. Another used XJ550 front wheel is on the way. I'll mess with this one later for a spare. If I try to drill it out now I'll get annoyed and end up ruining the rim.
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