cosgrove

Hi, as others have said,the most likely cause of your starting problem is going to be loss of compression. If you are lucky,when the engine got too hot it caused the piston rings to stick,although I can't explain the loss of oil in the first place. My advice would be to invest in a Haynes manual,and remove the head and barrel to check the rings and cylinder bore for scoring. If you want to remove the head etc,the following will help Remove the crankshaft end cap and timing cap,(left side of engine,2 caps with slots in) Remove camchain sprocket cover,(left side at top 2 bolts) Remove spark plug Remove valve cover caps Turn engine anti clockwise using socket on alternator bolt,(visible through crankshaft end cap hole) while looking for timing mark visible through timing cap hole and the camshaft sprocket mark lining up with mark on head,if you have got it right,both valves will be closed and the rockers will have some play in them, This is top dead centre,let me know if you get this far,and I will tell you what to do next. Pete

Double triple check the ignition barrel is wired correctly,apparently a number of people have bought replacement switches that are not switched correctly,although on most of them it blows the main fuse. If you can replace with original switch if you have it to check. Pete

Just wanted to say that my previous post was wrong,ignore it please(I'm getting senile). Think you said you had 4/5 wires to the starter relay. one will be to ignition switch, from main fuse (red) one will be from starter switch,12v volts, (battery voltage) when ignition is on and starter pressed.(blue/white) one will be same but via clutch switch,same as above,but if it wasn't in neutral/clutch in etc.(blue/white) That should leave one direct from battery, 12 v thicker wire (red) Last a similar thickness black lead to starter, goes to starter,only live if relay works. If everything checks out, other than blue/white wires, starter switch should have 12v at brown wire with ignition on, 12v blue/white when pressed. Pete

Hi,does your bike have a side stand? If it does check to see if it has a side stand switch, the later bikes are supposed to have them,if faulty,it will break the energising feed to the starter relay. Pete

Hi, Is there any noise (hissing) when you remove the tank? If a vacuum is created by having no vent in the cap,then the fuel won't flow. To be honest. I have only had this on cars where you have a fuel pump sucking fuel from the tank, the tank vent gets blocked,or someone has put on an non vented after market filler cap. If you have some idea how far you can travel before cutting out, pick somewhere safe, I would then suggest taking the fuel pipe off the fuel tap before undoing the cap,if you have no fuel,release the cap,and see if any comes out. Then it would suggest the cap is faulty. Be ready to turn off the fuel tap if it does start to flow. If fuel comes out before releasing the cap,then it would at least take non venting out of your thoughts. Good luck Pete

Hi, assuming your bike is 2 stroke not too sure if this will help,if you are having to get this done by others,but here goes. First make sure you have a good flow of fuel from your tank,just remove the pipe from the carb,have a container ready,then open your petrol tap,should be a steady stream,(same "thickness" as the bore of the pipe) If this is ok,then you are going to be looking at the carb again, if you are able to, 1/remove carb,2/check float height(if this is set too low it will starve the engine at high throttle openings. 2/ check the main jet size against makers spec,it will have a number stamped on it,generally it's the biggest jet. Take your time dismantling the carb and do it somewhere clean,noting everything you do carefully,use tools that fit and you should be ok. Your float height and jet size should be available on the web or manual if you have one,along with instructions how to do it. Finally if this all seems ok,I would check your oil pump settings,as too much oil will make your bike run too lean,this will probably show up on your spark plug colour, Hope this helps Pete

From what I know you would need a lot more than just the engine,2010 is fuel injected whereas your bike has a carb,you would be looking at getting all the fuel injection gear,pump,tank,and wiring. Its possible that the inlet for the injector is the same diameter as for a carb,but you would have to check that your wiring would be compatible as the injection models will have an ECU (electronic control unit) which may include the CDI (capacitor discharge ignition). On your bike this will be a separate "black box". Not trying to blind you with science,but thought I would try and give you a sensible reply to help. If it were my bike,I would look at replacing your engine with the same year if the gearbox is beyond your ability to repair. Pete

Hi All Just joined but would like confirmation that the Carb version tank has a hole for the petrol tap and another in the centre rear for the sender,whereas the injection type just has a large cylindrical hole for the pump. Any other differences to distinguish the different years would be helpful. Thanks in advance Pete

Hi, As a reasonably old bloke,just got my first Yamaha,had several bikes over the too many years from British to the other three japanese makes.Now need something light to keep riding with bad back,so hence the little YBR. Always wanted an RD250/350 back in the seventies,but chose a K4 250 Honda as my one and only new bike. Always fixed my own so happy to pass on any tips if needed to new riders. All the best Pete