shambles1980

my bike is a 2 stroke..

but id be wanting to do something similar to that too lol.. its not as much for the increase in speed / performance, its more of a pissing contest with my self lol.

yeah lol.. i though it would be a reply like "just take it down all the way it helps a lot really you get better rpm through all the gears" or "i tried that once. it was a bad idea bike really struggled to start. the bike would stall when idle, and i lost power through all the gears" im actually shocked no one has done it in the past and have an answer.

i guess they wouldnt destroy the horse because of that owner's stupidity ... so your point about the bike not being to blame is a valid one.

well i dunno.. I wouldn't like to give some one something for free then they turn around and sell it. and regardless of that. i think id like to keep it any way. i do like the little bike.

yeah think il just leave i for a while..

yep.. I was assuming that the lip was there to help pressure for the starting and idle of the bike.. but i was speculating that it could simply be there as a form of restriction.. I was hoping some one would know one way or the other, and i did not want to just remove the lip if it makes it difficult to start. and if it can help with performance was there a specific amount to be removed before it caused issues. or could i just remove the whole thing? il just leave it for now unless some one chimes in that has already done it and knows either way. but it seems to me any one who looked down that port must have thought "hmm that lip looks like a stupid idea to me, i wonder if it would run better without it" I guess im the only one lol. p.s the comment about "this engine has really low compression" was about the rxs engine in general. not a speciic issue with mine lol.

well thats the thing lol.. I was hoping some one would have tried it already and had the answers.. i know this litle engine has more to give. its less than 12 bhp, and surley it must be capable of atleast 14 or so.. i was wondering if this lip thing there was restricting it as i remeber they used to restrict bikes via the exhaust. But i know this bike has really low compression, so it could actualy be there so i can start the thing without having to bump start it. and thats why i asked if any one knew if it would help and if it will how much should i open it by.. if no one knows il just leave it untill i find my self in possession of a spare cylinder for it

i dont have any tools i could use to brighten the pic.. but i can see it on my monitor.. its at the top of the exhaust, maybe you could adjust your brigntness for a bit just so you see it.. i had thought it may be some sort of ventruli effect to help the exhaust gasses travel faster. but i dont see how that would work as it could not increase the volume of gasses escaping. But i supose if gasses at that point traveld faster it could help draw more out of the cylinder.

yeah i see how that could look like crudd.. any way here is a totaly diferent persons totaly diferent picture again found on google.. you can see what i mean though yes? i intend of taking a rasp to that to make it round then polish it a bit but i dont thinnk polishing would be needed, just make sure i clean it up good with wd40 so there is no burr left in there... and i intend on leaving the actual exhaust port on the bore as it were alone, just this stupid looking lip thing that just seems to be a stupid idea to me.... but i dont want to make it totaly round as a 1st step incase that lip helps with idle and starting.

its just when you look down the exhaust port "if you take the exhaust off" you can see outlet isnt round it has a flat bit on there. I assume this helps with the compression for starting it and then the idle. but it must restrict the exhaust gasses escaping so restricting it.. "atleast thats my understanding." here i found a picture on google.. im thinking if i could take that lip off of there and round it out it would help?

ok its me again.. just want to know if there are issues with opening out the exhaust port on the old rxs 100.. i see it seems to be narrow. I assume this is good for idle but sux for power. I also assume this is something lots of people here will have done. i plan on opening it out some so its closer to the round shape it should be. i dint want to touch the inside of the cylinder though. so is there a max size to use for best all round preformance, or just open it to the max ?

I think.. rxs and tzr carb will work on a dt..

id just blow torch it off... but thats just me probably lol

well the faring im sourcing is only £45. so thats not so bad at all. im about £100 in on parts for the engine rebuild that with reed valves. im thinking about getting disk breaks for the front probably off of a tzr or dt thats probably going to cost a bit. copule of hundred maybe depending if i need the whole front end forks excetera. but i may not bother with the disk breaks for a while things like a new sproket for the front will be like £20 so even with sandblasting and respray excetera i should be able to come in under £6-£700 the bike was free... and i figure that after its done it would cost me more than £700 to buy the same bike in the same condition.. maybe im wrong but im pretty sure that's right. also its a good little bike that il probably let my wife have after a while, but only when im confident she wont just dissapear over the horizon screaming 1st thing she lets go of the clutch. I really think she should get a 4 stroke lol.

quite sure if i add enough caps as a resivuoir then it would work atleast for the lights. but i guess its a bit of un needed work for brighter lights and possible after market indecators, so il put that one on the back burner for now.

Think i may have sourced a possible tzr 125 top and bottom for this. Hope i can jam it on the bike some how lol and it wont kill the engine by reducing the air cooling. finaly got to tinker with the bike some today. only a few mins 10/15 but it was long enough to get the old head off check the cylinder "which looks perfect" and throw on the new head "re used the old gasket for now as i will be rebuilding any way" Sounds much better with the new head no more horrible hiss of losing power.. Dont think i will helicoil the old head though. a replacment head seems to be cheaper than a helicoil kit.. still unsure what to do about the 6v. but its getting there now.

hmms some of the rd125 stuff looks good, so il see if i can get any for that. the spark splitter thing does sound a lot like a gimik to me too. But as i was planing of swappig the reeds for the hy tech reeds, i wasnt worrying about extra power with the reeds though, they are more of a "well if it breaks atleast its not steel churning up in side the engine" but given that they boast extra power i was wondering if they also increase emissions which then lead me to the spark splitter jobbys.. but i guess thats not an issue. I have been looking at how others change the lighting from 6v to 12v. and seems a prety simple process. but I dont think i like that method really. and im sure the same outcome could be gained with a couple of cap's a transistor and maybe a diode and resister. but the diode and resister really shouldnt be needed. But i really do think that 12v lighting would be preferable to 6v. I would really prefer the whole thing being 12v though. and maybe using resistors to lower some of it to 6v if it absolutley has to be 6v. i just think 6v is a bit weak for any sort of bike.

I dont want to sell my little rxs lol, And i cant find any sort of fairing for it..

ok, so i have my little rxs, and im going to be making it road legal. i would really like to umm "pimp it out" (i think thats the term) 1st id really like to know if i can get some sort of faring. something preferably like this no idea where id get one for a rxs 100 though.. and then lets say i changed the lights and stuff on the bike for led after market lights. what would be my best bet. do i need to re do the whole bike's wiering "start from scratch" to make it all 12v. or would i be able to say leav it at 6v, but make a little pcb. with some transitors and a few caps and put those inline with the lighting so it bumps the 6v up to 12v just for the lights. Also given that i have thought about making the little amp "as it were" to boost the power to the lights are there any pre made units out there that would do the same thing? i dont have any problems making the actual pcb's if its a viable solution, but i would want to make some sort of water proof housing for them, and im not able to do that. the best i could do would be to put them in a small box "which would b used as a mould". then fill that up with silicone. then pull it out of the box when the silicone has set. And one last thging. i have seen things called "multi spark" you basically cut the ht lead, and screw it inline before the spark plug. then it splits the power it gets so you get 5 sparks instead of 1. This is suposedly ment to improve power and economy by burning off all the fule in the cylinder. where as 1 spark would fail to burn it all.. "personally i dont see how it can burn off any more than 1 spark can, because of the compression then ignition feature of internal combustion engines" But if any one knows that they really do work then let me know.

nope. ebay changed that... some peoplw would sell junk, then if you left them negative. they would leave you neagative and every one suffered. or you both retracted your neagtive comments. "you cant retract posative ones" but yeah basically, sellers used to use the fact they could leave negative feedback as leverage against people with little feedback. so if you had 1 + and you left me a - With my 300 or so + feed back that 1 - from you wouldnt make much of a diference. but for you 1 - would take you to 50% feedback. so you would more than likley just not leave negative. the system was flawed. and of course still is.. should have a negative option for non paying users. or buyers that just outright threaten you with negative unless you give them a partial refund because the post man was an hour later than usual.

hi.. i do a lot of sales on ebay. and 4 days is the time stated by ebay they have to pay in. if you cant contact the seller you can get the persons phone number through ebay if you want to find out what is going on.. however, it has been 4 days so you can now open a non paying buyer case. ebay will start proceedings and if the buyer does not pay they will get an infraction, and you will be credited back your 10/15% final value fee. After that you can then request ebay refund you your listing fee. they wont always do that but they will about 60% of the time. This is usefull because i sell a lot of stuff on ebay, and it only takes 100 non payers and then all the 40p listing fees is £40 that just vamished. But they will only credit you the money which sux if you dont sell stuff. as for feedback. If a non paying buyer leaves you bad feedback then you can ask ebay to remove it. and they will

for some reason "and i can probably guess why" ebay breakers never sell the frame. and they dont seem to sell the front foot rest bracket either.. i can get a center stand. although i do prefer a side stand. i will try to jet was the thing today and see what the damage actually is. the guy that gave it to me said. "i bought the bike not that long ago, and it did have an mot for a while before he put the bike away because it would not run properly" So really It SHOULD be structurally sound. But there seems to be a lot of mud and other junk under there, so i dont think the friend that gave it to me ever thought to make sure it was reasonably clean before he stored it.. on a side note i found a place selling LOTS of parts. But they seem to be from India. and i have no idea how much 350.000.00 whatever is., But if needs be i guess i can source from there. honestly if it was a diferent mode l probably wouldnt bother. I can get a CB 125 for the same amount of money im going to be spending on parts. "taxed and tested" but something about the rxs makes me want to restore it so its the best it can be. But having said that i am a bit peeved that i can only find parts for them in india. Arent there any patern parts for it? or some intechange able parts from a diferent bike..

Big ass horse = if you didnt see it get off the road. want to ride at 104Mph = Get off the road. general rule of thumb in uk, is 100Mph + is a ban "non specified legth. but a ban" 99Mph or less is possibly a ban but you can argue out of it. makes me wonder what the pro 104Mph guys would say if it was a car coming at a Learner biker. Personally i dont like cyclists. no tax no mot no insurance and ther ride like idiots. But i have never seen a horse rider be anything other than careful and vigulant. you wont ever get a horse rider saying "sorry mate i didnt see you" or pulling out in to the road when your 10 feet way doing 40. Where i live if you tried to do 104Mph your going to end up in bad shape. thanx to the blind coreners and the hundred or so sheep walking all over the road. track days arent that expensive really

cant seem to find front foot pegs + center stand. i noticed my center stand was more of a side stand.. Then i noticed if i was to do something drastic like ohh.. use the back break. the foot peg moves... so im trying to figure out where i would get atleast the little frame that has the footpegs I really need to jet wash the whole underside of the frame so i can see whats wrong. "could just need bolting on properly i guess" But if i do need to replace it. i have no idea where to get one. Or if i can use one from a diferent model yamaha. also not to sure about welding it back together if its snaped as i dont know what the MOT people would say