AndyBuk

+1, well on the helmet, never been to war myself...

Thats what I meant I wear, but I couldn't for the life of me remember what it was called. Gore Tex with Kevlar is what I have, I think lol. Good expensive stuff, thats all I remember lol.

lol, too funny.

hmm, still think I'd rather have them struggle to get my trousers off rather than zipping me up in a body bag. I would imagine they must be able to cut them ok, after all, there must be stitching in the trousers so they must be able to get snip snips through them?

I read somewhere (may even have been on here) that not wearing proper bike trousers is pretty much like wearing shorts. The material will be ripped through in seconds and then its the flesh and bone to go next They said that leather was by far the best way to go, but I myself use the gore tex material stuff, might cause some accidents for cage drivers if I passed them in leathers not to mention the impossibility of getting them on lol.

lol, I am not married.... YET.... I have another year left before D Day This purchase is partly to stop the lady friend from moaning (on the bike) whilst we go to France in the summer. Plus I keep getting a weird sensation down my leg on my commute (about an hour each way dependent on traffic), but that may be partially due to a history of sciatica and back surgery What price do you put on not having the wife (to be) complaining of numb bum through France???

Soo true, rather be sweaty and smelly when I get home than not make it there at all!!!

G'day Blaize and to the forum

Hi Aryton, welcome to the site.

Good afternoon friends, Quick question, I was thinking of getting one of the Airhawk seat things, the Cruiser R. Has anyone ever seen these or indeed had a ride whilst using one? They are a bit pricey, so would appreciate some thoughts before I shed the bucks... This is the one I was thinking about: http://www.bykebitz.co.uk/acatalog/Airhawk_Cruiser_R.html Cheers, Andrew.

Yeah, the carrying some spare and seeing where we get to is something I thought about before, however the concern was that would mean all the gunk in the tank getting sucked through so I have always held off on doing that. But for knowing how far is the point of no return, it might be worth it... just once lol.

Hi Ben and to the forum.

As the title suggests, does anyone know what the average mileage you can get once the fuel light comes on. Coming to work today I hit 16 miles I think before I got to a petrol station. That was traveling on the motorway at around 60mph ish. Was starting to panic as I don't usually do more than around 10 miles before I fill up. It would be good to know where the critical limit is before I might have to push lol.

Hi mate.

I picked up a wee box from maplins, just need to cut the relevant hole and find a nice spot to locate it on the bike. I also might need to get myself a better soldering iron, got a blue one from Maplin for about £10 but it seems pretty useless especially after I have been using it for a few weeks.

The bit I don't get regarding these waterproof switches is that the pins and wires are exposed. This is the bit that I am currently trying to waterproof.

Congrats mate I have 13 months before I get hitched.

Cheers Ttask, i've been using Maplins so far, but having difficulty getting something to cover the pins at the back of the switch. Was thinking of some kind of wee box, but also don't want it to look too stupid. Think the PTT option may mean that the lights are only on whilst the button is being pressed. Will follow up on some of your other suggestions. Cheers.

Hi all, Has anyone made a waterproof switch, housing etc for use on the handlebars? Looking to knock something together as I have not been able to find any waterproof switches anywhere. Looking to connect this onto an XVS 950 Midnight Star to control the Spotlights. I have all the other wiring sorted from fuse to relay to adequate wires. Thanks, Andrew.

Finally figured out the problem and for once it wasn't my inability to follow instructions... The spot lights have 2 wires coming out of them, 1 with a spade connector and the other a bullet. Now logic would suggest, if the spade connection is the negative and the bullet was the positive on the right hand light.... then you would assume this would be the same set up on the left hand light, right?????? or am I just being stupid. Anyway, for some random reason (after only working with the left side of the bike), I thought, lets just try wiring up the right hand light to see what happens... and of course it worked. A few moments of head scratching and puzzlement I thought, just for sh1ts and giggles I will swap the wires over on the left hand light.... and of course it worked. After cursing the wiring of the lights, I thought it best to stop work and plan the install fully, from making some kind of waterproof switch to having adequate wiring. So today I will stop off at Maplin and get some expensive parts.

I had 1 before, but I also have a garage so think I used it for the bbq instead lol. I think you woould be best with a cover than not, keep the elements off the bike. I would assume that its best not to put the cover over a hot bike though.

I have scrapped them a couple of times but only on roundabouts, I don't really think I ride the bike hard enough to worry about the scrapping especially with the mrs on the back (think I'd get a good slap on the back of the head lol). I had pegs on the VN900 before, but that was a quicker bike even though it was about 50cc less, something about the amount of cylinders I think). That bike didn't vibrate anywhere near as much. Think if I took the floorboards off then I might have to do something about the shifter, its one of those heel to toe jobs. Plus when I use the bike its generally for longer journeys so would like to keep the boards I think. Might just have to make do with the numb feet lol.

lol I don't like the sound of that. The only issue I have is with the floorboards, no other vibrations give me any great cause for concern.

lol, funnily enough, I am looking to get new summer boots asap, so I will now keep a look out for thick soled ones. You'd think there must be some mod to absorb / dampen some of the vibration.

Quick question, Has anyone done anything to reduce the amount of vibration that can come through the stock floorboards? On the longer runs this can get a bit distracting, so thinking I might try and reduce it somewhat. Cheers, Andrew.