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Everything posted by cliverlong

  1. Hello, Without going into convoluted detail, I am thinking of getting my 1995 250 Virago emissions tested to try to use it in Central London. London will be extending the infamous ULEZ (Ultra-Low Emission Zone ) to the North and South Circular Roads in October (?) 2021. Bikes not meeting Euro 3 (Nox) standard of 0.15 gm/KM will pay £12.50 per day charge to enter "central" London. In the UK there appears to be only one company, the National Emissions Test Centre, that can test and quoting their website "Any Motorcycle can be made to meet the Ultra Low Emissions Zone (ULEZ) standard." Now NETC charges £170 to test the bike and probably more to "make the bike compliant". What I want to try and find out is there any reliable data on Virago 250 NOx emissions to help me judge whether my bike has any hope of being made compliant - or whether after shelling out £170 for an emissions test I will be told "sorry mate, your bike is that rare breed that can't be made compliant" or "certainly sir, we can make that adjustment for £500". The only reason for going through this faff is I bought a second-hand ULEZ complaint scooter for "Central" London, only for it to be stolen 2 weeks after I bought it. Ta, Clive
  2. Hi The headlamp blew on my XJ6. I have removed the old bulb and replaced with a new H4 type. The bulb does not light. I have tested the voltage at the bulb connector that pushes into the back of the bulb and there is no voltage. I have tested the terminals into which the bulb fuse fits and there is no voltage there. The 20A headlamp bulb is not broken. All other electrical components seem to work ok. The bike starts fine. Does anyone know where else I check to see if some wiring connection is loose to explain why the bulb doesn't light? Regards, Clive
  3. Hi. I have an XJ6 Diversion. It is water-cooled, 4 cylinder. Today on the 15 mile commute to work I noticed the digital temperature reading fluctuating wildly. When I was travelling around 20 mph the temperature displayed 90C. When I stopped at lights the temp displayed jumped within 3 seconds to 108C. The maximum reading is normally 103C when stationary and idling. When I stopped the bike then switched on again, but with the engine not running, the gauge displayed a maximum of 112C and the radiator fan was running very fast. Once on the journey a red temperature light flashed for less than a second. Any idea what the problem might be? I am guessing 1) the sensor is giving a wrong reading, insufficient coolant fluid 3) water pump broken. Clive
  4. Hi, I disassembled the switch gear and detached the end of the throttle cables on the twist grip. The twist grip turned freely when the cables were detached. However, there was traces of rust on the wire cable - I guess because the bike had been sitting around for years. I have bought some new throttle cables on EBay and I am going to see if I can persuade someone with some technical ability to help me fit them in place of the existing cables. I don't think it is conceptually a difficult job to fit but it looks fiddly where the cables attach to the engine (what IS that bit called?) because everything looks cramped into a small space. Thanks, Clive
  5. Finally ..... A completely new "Marving" exhaust from WeMoto in Brighton seems to have cured this "hesitancy". Also I am breathing in less fumes when the bike is stationary - the bike is chucking them out the back to the next punter. Clive
  6. Hello Does anyone know if there are some written (or even better video) instructions on removing and refitting throttle cables for a 250 Virago? My throttle cables have pretty much seized and lubing them has had no effect. I have bought new cables on Ebay for a tenner (I think that is a bit of a punt at that price). I will new lube the new cables (assuming they fit). Much appreciated. Clive
  7. Hi, The indicators on the Virago XVS250 are in just the wrong position to fit decent sized panniers. Now this bike is no long-distance tourer, but I would like to take it on the occasional short camping trip. Has anyone moved the indicators to the back of the rear mudguard / fender(?) ? My idea this would clear an area to fit a rack that would attach to the hole in the rear mudguard previously used by indicator. Regards, Clive
  8. Hi, The right-hand wing mirror on my Virago XV(S)250 is stuck in one place (out-of-place, having been knocked when parked). There are two nuts underneath the mirror "stem". When adjusting the position of the mirror I don't want to force and strip the thread - especially where the stem inserts is all part of a handlebar attachment including the brake fluid topup (sorry for technically incorrect words). Which way do I loosen the nuts and in which order, so I can adjust the position of the mirror? Thanks, Clive
  9. Hi Today was a dry day and I had some time. I cleaned the chain and I crimped the two connectors for the cartridge fuse holder as you suggested, and the problem with the indicator seems to be fixed. Thanks for your suggestion. Clive
  10. Hi, About once per week the indicator stops working on my 2016 XJ6 Diversion. The hazrd warning also stops working. All other electrical items such as headlights, and brake lights seem to work fine while the indicator stops working. I noticed tonight when I stopped and turned off the bike then turned back on the ignition but did not start the bike, the neutral bulb on the instrument panel was weak (*) but the indicator and hazards worked ok. After switching on and off a few times without turning over, the neutral bulb seemed strong and the indicator continued to work fine. Has anyone else experienced this infrequent indicator/hazard "failure" on the XJ6? Does anyone have any suggestions on how to diagnose this problem? Thanks, Clive
  11. Electrics, always electrics. (Except when it is water leaks at home) Fixing earlier problems, I have cleaned the headlight flasher switch and replaced the horn. The new horn is a bit toot-tooty but it's plenty loud enough. Now, the horn, indicators, rear brake light and neutral jewel lamp all run through the same 10A fuse. I know this because the fuse blew about a month ago. Now with no apparent trigger and at an unknown time, but at least once, sometimes twice, per one hour ride, all the electrical devices running off that 10A fuse stop working. I know this because the indicator jewel light stops flashing, the indicators don't work and the neutral jewel light doesn't come on. Then a few minutes later everything starts working again! Any suggestions where to start tracing the problem? Sense suggests it is a "loose connection", but where? I have very basic electric circuit knowledge, basically you measure voltage across a device and current through the device by putting the multimeter in line. And that's it! I have the circuit diagram for the bike. Thanks in advance for any suggestions. Clive
  12. Thanks for the link to the part. A useful site for spares. The switch works perfectly, it is just sometimes it is it is not pushed enough by the "paddle". Clive The straightforward ideas are the best. I will try this. Ta.
  13. Hi For some reason I was checking the brake light on my XJ6 and I noticed the brake light was on. I have worked out the cause is the hand brake lever. At one end of the hand brake lever is a "paddle" that when the lever is not held (i.e. the brake is not activated) the paddle pushes a little switch (see attached pictures ). I guess this is a very common set up (see attached link to photos). When the switch is pushed by the paddle the brake light is off. When I pull on the brake level the paddle comes away and the switch springs open and the rear brake light comes on. The problem is sometimes the paddle does not press the switch enough to switch off the brake light. I can overcome this by "flicking" the brake lever with my fingers, but it is tricky and I shouldn't really do this while riding. Now, over a year ago I was knocked off the bike by white van man and one bit of damage to the bike was a little cover that was part of the brake cylinder (?) arrangement that covered the "plunger" into the master brake cylinder (?) had sheared off. You can see this in one of the photos "brake lever cover sheared" Now, is it possible the "paddle" is slightly bent and with a bit of heat and bending I can get the paddle to push on to the switch when I release the brake lever? Regards, Clive
  14. Hi From time to time, the revs on my XV250 seem to take half a second to kick in when I twist the throttle. Now, I'm not expecting superbike responsiveness but it is this unpredictability that interests/concerns me. I have cleaned the air filter (the oil that came out seemed pretty clean to me) but this had no positive effect. Could the carb need cleaning? and .... what's bothering me is I am developing a tendency to really yank the throttle to compensate then the Virago takes off down the road propelled by the power of many horses. Clive
  15. Another forum claims the pod contains a "Carburetor heater". I'm still intrigued what the liquid was in the frame that started to flow out when I undid one of the screws holding the left pod in place. I won't be fiddling with that again. Clive
  16. Will do. I managed to get the spade connectors off the horn by gently attacking the horn with a hammer.
  17. Yep, I have the 300-odd page service manual and I can't find a reference to this object, but then "right-hand pod" isn't very descriptive and the file isn't searchable. Clive
  18. (Sort of ) fixed. I decided to go around the problem based on a suggestion from one of the you tube videos. I bought a can of electrical contact cleaner (about the same price as a new horn). I drilled a smallish hole in the bottom of the horn so the nozzle of the contact cleaner could just fit. I then hosed the inside of the horn with cleaner. It was interesting to see as the cleaner went in the metal diaphragm of the horn pushed out - so a well sealed device and some pressure there. I swished around the horn to try to get the cleaner covering the contacts then let the cleaner drain out (probably some nasty, volatile fluoro carbon). The horn still sounds a bit "reedy" but is much more reliable and louder than before - so I will count that as a success. I will tape over the hole with some duct tape and hopefully that will stay put. Oil filter is drying in the sun but looking at the colour of the water containing oil and detergent the filter looked as though it didn't need cleaning. Can't do any harm to clean it out though (can it?). Clive
  19. This barely qualifies as a "technical" query, but if I do it wrong I feel there is unlimited opportunity for unnecessary-and-difficult-to-fix damage. The horn on the resurrected Virago 250 varies between "reedy" and "tooty" (much like my chest this week) - not much use as a horn. Looking at you tube videos of a horn disassembled, I guess for such an old bike the contacts are corroded. The horn seems pretty well sealed, it looks a lot of effort to take it apart and there will probably be leaks after reassembly. Although it would be satisfying to fix the original, I will buy a new horn, something generic like this I am assuming will do the job. However, I first have to get the original horn off - and like everything on this bike, it is well fixed. I don't want to pull on the wires as probably they will pull straight out of the crimped spade terminals. The little black posts sticking out from the body of the horn I guess provide some mechanical or moisture protection for the wires. I have tried to get a thin screw driver blade under this "post" and lever one off and only succeeded in slightly damaging the post. Any suggestion on how to correctly detach the horn will be gratefully received. Thanks in advance, Clive
  20. I'll own up. I tried to take off the right hand "pod". When I remove the lower bolt, dark oily liquid flowed out. Recovering from my surprise I quickly decided it would be a good idea to put the bolt back in. I thought "oil?" but why oil in the frame? I thought "brake fluid?" then "shit!", again why brake fluid in the frame? When I mopped up the fluid on the driveway it looked to me like old engine oil - maybe it was. ?? !! Certainly not dusty enough for fairies.
  21. Regarding the headlight flasher, I have fixed it. I took the switch unit apart and peered inside. Luckily the rocker switch is in a housing that comes apart so the whole thing disassembles. All I did was rub down the contacts with 600 emery paper and wiped the contact surfaces with meths. Flasher unit works now. I don't think a switch unit fitted today would be serviceable.
  22. Hi, Out of interest, when you look at the front of the bike, the left hand "pod" above the cylinder and below the fuel tank contains the air filter. What does the similar looking right-hand side "pod" contain? Thanks, Clive
  23. Hi, I have "inherited" an "N" reg 250 Virago (XV250 Dragstar elsewhere?). It runs nicely and I am working on getting rid of the obvious rust points. I have two problems that need fixing and I need some help on. The headlight flasher has stopped working. I am assuming when I switch to high beam that filament of the lamp is what the flasher switch powers up temporarily. The high beam works so the bulb is ok (?). Any ideas how I diagnose and fix the problem with the flasher switch? Separately, does anyone know where I can source the down pipes for the exhaust? Currently mine are badly rusted, patched up with gun gum but there are still leaks. I have searched online but I can't find a reference to the exhaust downpipes in the UK. Thanks, Clive
  24. Hi, Just leaving this for info. The XJ6 would cut out 2 or three times within 5 minutes of starting when I was changing up from 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd. Also the engine warning light (yellow) started to flicker. The mechanic could reproduce the engine cut out by "blipping" the throttle. He put the bike on the diagnostic computer and one of the sensors indicated a "pressure" problem (I think). The fault was a split vacuum hose in the fuel supply (?), shown up by some soapy water on the hose. The hose was replaced and since then no more cut outs or engine light. Regards, Clive
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