NE0
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Posts posted by NE0
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I put a new cheap chinese carb from ebay on my DT175MX back in 2015 and it's still going! I think i was a bit disappointed in its performance at the time, I think I thought being all new it might make a big difference to the original, but it didn't. It was no better or worse. But I never took it off!
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The 1KT series is a TZR 250 from 1986. (according to wiki it states:- The parallel twin 2MA variant being the UK variant and the 1KT model being the domestic Japanese model.
The 1WG series is a FZR400 late 80s early 90s. I wonder if the O in 1WGO is in fact a zero for the rest of the numbers ie. 1WG 01234.
Also, if you're unsure, just type in : "Yamaha 1WG" or "Yamaha 1KT" into ebay to see the thousands of parts available for each of the designations.
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Hi Alex, Somethings happened to the site, all the recent posts have gone and the pages have reverted back to an earlier date.
I'm unable to PM you as that option is not available on my level of access.
so i thought this was the best way to notify you, hope you read it.
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Another option for you martin is to get yours repaired and your 31A-10 is listed here.
ahhh, this might be of interest....
There is a company in Oz that lists a replacement for your TID14-19 (31A-10)
https://www.ecureplacement.com.au/ecu-product/yamaha-xj900rk-seca-tid14-19-ecu-replacement/
and a different listing for the TID14-37 (58L-10)
https://www.cdireplacement.com/cdi-products/yamaha-xj900-tid14-37-cdi-replacement/
However, they are both the same price and it may be the same unit? I note the model number listed 000.299.000 S120 45 is the same on both entries.
I can see its not cheap, but it may be useful in finding one closer to home
or an email to them might be useful to you.
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hi there, I found the very same data on this website:- https://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/extra-tci-uniits.40084/page-2
which i assume you copied and pasted it from as its in the same format.
You ask if there's any downside and can it harm?
Well, reading the rest of the thread on the XJbikes forum, member K-Moe writes in to explain : ( copied and pasted across)
The advance is telling you when the spark fires in degrees of crank rotation before TDC. Having the wrong advance curve will definitely affect how well the engine runs as spark advance is dependent on the valve timing of the engine. While it is possible to run with spark timing that is different than stock (sometimes it's preferable, depending on the engine), if you get too far off the engine will run very poorly.
and it would appear that the advance curve is unknown for the 11857, therefore its also unknown how it would perform in place of the OEM 418. I'd venture to say without that information it would be one of those trial and error situations, i.e give it a go , it may or may not work. However, in view of there being two available, one for the XJ900RK and RL with a different one being listed for XJ900N etc implies there is likely a difference and you may well notice it when fitted.
I also noted that on page 1 on the thread there was also a post on testing and repairing TCI units.
Good luck, let us know how you get on.
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Hi Snake, I can't imagine this snowballing as so few post these days! You seem to be the exception bud!
Having said that at least with this post it's gone past "the no interest at all"!
As regards to the AutoClave, we use them in hospitals to sterilize the instruments. They are big steam ovens and they are huge! if you're building one? it would have to be big enough to hold the largest part you want to make! and you'd have to generate enough constant steam for the curing process of carbon fibre! (sterilising instruments is a 2 hour cycle) I don't know the time you'd need for CF. ....then there's the plumbing!! ..........I can't imagine building a home one to be honest
having said that...you tube is your friend and it looks like someone has done just that!!!
If this is what you propose...then presumably you're considerably richer than me!!!
...I'm thinking maybe is there a service which can produce CF parts from your design type place?
You could design the part in 3D with Autocad and send it off to a company which would produce your bespoke design....
or
They can design the part and produce the part.
Either way it doesn't sound like a cheap service , hence why i guess you've been contemplating a DIY approach.
I do know of someone that builds all sorts of things out of CF, including submarines ....but I haven't heard from him in a while!
Which brings us back to Glasfibre and mould making , the obvious easy option! but also the tried and tested methods of custom car builders for the past 50 years!
afterall ANY part can be fabricated using this method.
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Hi there Stu
Welcome in, I started in 77 when I was 16 so we're probably a similar age. Nice big bikes you've got there, nice to hear that you still do your own maintenance etc,
The forum is a bit of a quiet place these days, seems a lot of the regulars have stopped posting and presumably moved on, nonetheless some of us are still around for a bit of support.
Enjoy your Yamaha and as you say here's to the future, and further biking adventures ....
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if you've got 12 v at the holder ...I'd simply check the bulb across the battery terminals to see if it works, if it does, then you need to be looking at the headlight bulb holders earth wire, with a bad earth your bulb won't light up.
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Hi there Demon, I'm the original poster for this topic and all the pics i posted still work as i keep them active. You might want to try another browser or PC.
Theres no internal wiring diagram of the insides of a regulator/rectifier if thats what you are searching for, just my diagrams of where they go within a 175MX diagram.
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Did you get a set? any good?
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Nice intro Bob, you're as old as you feel , and if you can still get your leg over the seat you don't need a hip replacement!
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Try these ....
https://pyramid-parts.com/products/black-fork-gaiters-for-yamaha-dt175-78-86
via Google.co.uk
or Wemoto do a selection of gaitors , just have to measure your old ones for the nearest fit?
https://www.wemoto.com/parts/search?q=Fork+Gaiters+Black&partsfilter=pattern
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Welcome bud. Good interest in some big ones there, bit out of my league though! The forums a lot quieter these days, however, don't let that put you off, they're several regular visitors with similar interests in the bigger bikes. Nonetheless, we all share a common interest regardless of engine size.
good luck with your search. -
Anyone know what's happened to the regulars that used to post here? Blackhat250, Jimmy, Airhead, Cynic, Mike1949, Their names used to pop up quite regularly ....Seems a long time ago since Wild Foamy, Elvis and Dirty DT posted. Are they all ok? does anyone know, hopefully still around?
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Very nice Dig, you did very well. Well Done mate.
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Hi Dig, Looks like you're making some progress, I note there is an index mark (raised dimple) on the middle tooth of the selector cog in the recent top photo.
Yamaha uses several of these dimples and indents on parts inside the gearbox, my 175 has several parts with them, when you put it back together, you align the marks etc or they are aligned when the box is in Neutral.
Is there a corresponding mark on the other cog it interfaces with? or does it relate to the roller shifter head( the bit with the spider)i.e that bent over tab for example on the exposed spider.
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On one of our sister sites, someone is describing the same part, although I've not joined to see the photos etc...
https://yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forum/general-discussion/6495-74-dt250-shifting-issues
They are describing the pawl and Blackhat250 was involved. is that the same Blackhat250 member who was a regular here? Maybe he can help if he sees this post?
Trouble is, according to his profile, he last visited back in August 2022. Hope he's ok?
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Hi Dig...I've had a look around the net, found a DT400 Manual which has a picture of the same part...we're not allowed to post links to manuals.
Unfortunately it doesn't explain why the cogs are lined up like that, as in, for example put the gear in neutral then attach the cog to be similar.
Have you got a haynes manual? might be worth it.
I'd imagine its probably something simple which is causing the issue.
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There's another topic which can be locked up. 10 years later...might be a record?
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That post from Vira above is a copy and paste of part of my earlier post in this thread, taken from my 4th posting it is word for word including punctuation which suggests this is a BOT post and is not wanted here.
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Welcome fella.
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Hi Clive, Keith is what we call a One Hit Wonder! He only made one post (the number 1 above his current bikes indicates the number of posts he made) This was some three years ago ....never to be seen again.!
He may well have a valid reason for never posting again, but there are plenty of One Hit Wonders who we never see again.
Nonetheless , you rounded off this topic, so i think this topic can be closed off and locked to further posts.
You get a thanks from me for taking the time to write.
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Hi there, yes if you run LED headlights the AC lighting coil won't light them up. But in theory that doesn't stop you running everything (all LEDs) off the battery and simple charge the battery from the charging coil.
Back in 2011 I wrote a detailed write up about converting my DTMX from 6v to 12v long before it was available in kit form. You might find it of some interest. Give you some idea of what's involved.
However, as Mark points out, worthwhile speaking to RexSpeed for sure.
It's in the Workshop section.
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Mr
in General
Posted · Edited by NE0
Generally, (before they introduced the modern VIN ) all the earlier vehicles (ALL makes of vehicles) the number following the designation matches the engine number and it's quite simply the number off the production line starting at 1 etc. Both my late 70's bikes are alll designation codes followed by production number.
and looking at Snakes post the decoder mentioned at the bottom of the page confirms the designation letters. http://www.johnnystoybox.com/parts_cross-ref_3.htm
pages 14 and 15
as regards to the remaining numbers and looking at that decoder (The 9 Digit Vin part, yours are 9 digit ones) in more detail I'm not fully convinced, although it states the 5th number or letter is the YEAR and the 6th being the FACTORY code , ok fair enough ............but then it spoils it by stating the last three numbers are the production numbers, that would imply they only make a maximum of 999 machines!