NE0
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Posts posted by NE0
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another effective method is a hammer and a sharp chisel to knock it around and unthread it. Its a bit of an acquired skill, but once you get it going its comes off easily.
Don't hit it on one facet of the nut, vary it.
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Well, the good news is a SissyBar is indeed available for 2000 to 2005 models
bad news...not cheap!
but now you know what you're looking for!
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Hi there, a warm welcome from us all, Nice collection of big bikes you have there too. I recently answered a similar question about registration here. https://yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/47959-registering-an-old-bike/
where member mervin came to the rescue with the answer, Have a read that should point you in the right direction.
I'd edit out your matching frame numbers to be 525 XXXXX, the first numbers relate to the model , but the last numbers are the serial number, and not that I don't trust people but i don't!! its a public forum viewed worldwide, and If I was unscrupulous, I could use your legit numbers to notify DVLA myself and clone your machine!!.
Just looking out for you there mate.
That aside nice to have you on board, look forward to reading your future posts.
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another warm welcome from me.
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Have you tried You tube?
Lots of XS500 videos, too many for me to view, but I notice this blue one has the same size font on the side panels as your photo of the black one.
it maybe a case of going through them as some may have the correct tank but not side panel and visa versa.
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and a warm welcome from me too. All you guys seem to have BIG engine bikes! The biggest I've ridden is my 400.
When you say coming back, were you a member here before? if so, what was your user name?
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Keep it up Ray, I'm sure many of us can relate to your early days. If you want the ultimate closeness then the best bit is riding in the rain, and having a pond of water forming between the tank and your crotch!
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Hi there, big welcome from me, I don't think your English is that bad, you've made a good introduction. well done.
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Battery showing 10.5 when starter is hit so not too low but it could still be the battery?
BUT... I thought you stated in your first post,,,,,, Bike has new battery.
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...and if you can't tighten it...replace it, not expensive....and they don't last forever!
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You need a circuit diagram to trace the circuit. Have you tried the R1 Community? They have a circuit diagram here. https://www.r1-forum.com/threads/annotated-wiring-diagram.642907/
I'd consider joining them also, somebody there might help shed some light on it as it may be a common problem with your bike.
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Nice one Danny, Glad you got it sorted, now you can clock those miles up.
As a reward , here on the site we have a badge system, the more votes you get, progresses you up the ranking, it's only for fun! nothing elitist or special about it!!
You can even get on the leaderboard for post of the week, gold silver and bronze
On the bottom right of a post there is a grey heart (gray as you're in the US
) you simply click on it to give someone a thanks etc, these likes put you on the leaderboard on the top right, the more you get contibutes to your profile.
so I'm going to start the ball rolling and like your posts etc. and you'll see your name on the leaderboard!!
All the best
NE0
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Unbelievable!!
I've just been looking at the stats and this post has now surpassed 135K views making it the most viewed topic in the Workshop Section of this website.
Hopefully, its been of some use to you all 6 to 12volt converters. I started this post back in 2011, and here in 2024 its still going strong on my DT175MX.
In the next few months I'm going to ask the mods to lock the topic, as I don't think there's any more to add from my point of view as all the information for a successful conversion is contained herein,and little has been added in the past few years.
In future If anyone is having trouble with their own conversion it would be sensible to start a new thread for their bike and reference my post within the subject and where you might be having the trouble.
Keep on tinkering!
NE0.
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...and a warm welcome from me too.
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I would say "Preload adjuster 0 mm Range", suggests( and i'm no expert) that it's wound to its stop for the level to be taken, then wound out to 20mm standard preload.
Thinking about it, I believe its just stating that all the readings are taken with the preload set to zero: for the travel to be 88mm and sag, well....that's my interpretation of it, but i don't have it in front of me, however, i think its going to be something on those lines. It's just a reference point for all the specification figures to apply.
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Welcome Bicycle repairman,
This info any good to you , far right fork capacities for 94 to 96 FZR1000 EXUP
OR Better still....
Forks Info for YAMAHA FZR1000 1995
- KYB USD 41 mm OD
- Compression Nut Torque 30 in-lb (0.35 kgf-m)
- Fork Travel 88 mm
- Front Sag 37 mm
- Preload Adjuster 0 mm Range
- Fork Oil Weight SAE 10
- Fork Oil Level 140 mm
- Oil Quanity2
- Standard Preload 20 mm
from this page....
https://www.teknikmotorsport.com/complist/yamaha/fzr1000/1995/
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Welcome there Wrinkly.
Nice to have a new member who introduces himself, the forums a lot quieter these days, but there are a few core members who visit relatively regularly, but its not a patch on what it was ten years ago! Don't be surprised that many days/weeks can go by before seeing a new post though.
There's no concern about ownership of other bikes, nobody will comment.
I'm 10 years behind you and hopefully won't catch you up too quickly!!
Once again, welcome in.
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Think you'll find that PM is only available to paid members. I've recently gone from Free to Paid and now I can PM people, whereas that feature wasn't available on my free account.
Yup ,confirmed on the https://yamahaclub.com/forums/subscriptions/ page. On the FREE user account on the far right it states:-(Limited functionality - E.g. Excludes use of Garage, Gallery, PM)
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Looks like a spammer or bot to me.
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Hi Ben, this was asked just before Christmas by another member , this post may help.
Mervin provided the answer which may be what you're looking for?
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hi Moz,
Is there an Engine kill switch on the handlebar controls? This simple switch (if there is one) grounds the ignition, if the live wire that goes to it is grounding before it gets there, then you'll get no spark but the engine will turn over.
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If all was fine before it was laid up, then it's going to be related to the fuel and the carb. Whilst 2 months is not a long time, its not unusual, the fuel if left tends to evaporate in the carb leaving behind a sticky brown substance, called petrol gum or other terms, It can form anywhere where any fuel is. The likely area being the jets inside the carb. The starter or idle jet, when that gets gummed up, you get symptoms like you describe, difficulty starting and difficulty maintaining revs. I'd start there, take it apart and clean it out. We'll help you through it if its new to you.
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There's also a couple of sets of old Motad exhausts on Facebook to get you on the road again if that's what's required, cheap as under £50, not concours of course! but functional.
I assume as you've had yours rechromed, you are looking for concours, when you say "wrecked", you might of course mean the chrome is awful and can't be repaired, as in chrome removal and reapplied.
There again "wrecked" might be that they were damaged, as in crushed and are beyond repair.
With so little to go on, its open to interpretation and our imagination!
but hopefully these posts may be of some help to you?
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wrecked beyond repair? what did they do?
Presumably, you've looked on ebay? seller Twowheelspares seems to have several for sale for a 79 XS750.
or there's a new 3 into 1 stainless set for one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274402024190?hash=item3fe3a29afe:g:rWwAAOSwoDpjY6YP
maybe too expensive for you?
Drag Star 125cc BACK REST - DOES IT EXIST?
in General
Posted
Spain ....Nothing in UK? although you probably won't find one much cheaper than that Spanish one. I'd imagine that they hold their value on the second hand market too. ...if they ever come up!