NE0
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Posts posted by NE0
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Hi there Rigid,
Welcome to the club, as regards to the type of engine paint It will partly be what type of finish you're looking for and what colour you're after! furthermore it might be helpful if we knew what engine you were going to paint.
For example, if you're looking for concours type finish then you might be trying to match the right shade of paint and whether its a semi-gloss or matt finish, you might then have a limited choice. However, equally you might be looking for a suitable paint that you don't care if it's identical to the original or not, don't care what colour it is and don't care how long it lasts! You don't really give enough detail in your question.
Having said that, i painted my DT175MX in Simonez Engine Enamel in a satin finish. I'm not sure if the original was Matt, Satin or gloss, i just wanted it to be black. There is no need to use primer it just goes straight on. I sprayed it in 2011 and rode the bike in all weathers, it's lasted very well, albeit it's gone dull in places but it hasn't flaked off. I strongly recommend it. However, i also recognise its not OEM, but I don't care, it's black.!
Conversely with my Honda 400/4 i wanted it sprayed in near OEM as i could, and I matched the right shade of engine silver paint and at the time Eastwoods Silver engine paint was a perfect match, but unfortunatley it suffers from the effects of petrol and oil and comes off, just like the original did!! but its the right shade and to me, that's all that matters!! so i have to touch it up with a bit of spray every now and then, it still looks good.
Hope that is of some help.
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The photos appeared above, not sure how that happened as I didn't do anything! so i assume a mod has stepped in and helped out. Many thanks for that whoever it was.
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Hi there, I recall it wasn't easy putting on the hose inside the oil pump housing, however, i kept a photo record so here it is and the method i used to install it.
I was hoping the photo would show instead of a link, but never mind, clearly i did something wrong!
I followed Drewpy's post on the help page using embedded bb code, then part of it, all to no avail. so I gave up and ended up just putting the link in above.
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Hi Scott,
International Rescue here.! I've also got a DT 175 MX 1978 round tube swinging arm bike. I've got a photo of the loom under the tank if that helps, and I'm more than willing to take my tank off and photo around for you.
I'm familiar with the electrics of this bike, see one of my main popular posts on 12v conversion if you're interested.
I can send you the photos, if you PM me if thats any help. Plus if you happen to reside on the South Coast I could simply show you.
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Hi Akleimer, you're right its not listed in the haynes manual, I've searched google with various combinations. "Autolube Output volume" seems to give the best results with people suggesting a maximum volume of 10mls/200 pump strokes at full throttle( the volume is altered depending on the throttle). There is some good information on another bike forum "Yamaha Enduros" with an excellent video on testing the pump.
the same video is on Youtube, (or Youballs...ie you balls it up after watching these videos
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Hi Ratch, don't worry we've all snapped off intake/exhausts studs at some point in our biking!!
All yamaha bolts/studs are all going to be metric. It won't be M4 as thats only 4mm across and nearer to 9/64 drill bit. its going to be M6 (6mm across) All studs are.
There's a good lot of metric/imperial conversion charts out there, but finding the exact info you need is not always easy.
As we're not allowed to put in links to copyright material just google "screw sizes and drill equivalent" and you'll find a 7/32 drill is equivalent to an M6 screw size. A website pdf with 'little machine shop' in its title has a nice chart.
As regards to the stud itself, there is a very good parts catalogue website called cmsnl. You may have already found it. Just look up your own motorbike and you'll be able to find the appropriate exploded diagram of ALL the parts, including the part number to the bit you are looking for. Armed with the correct part number, google and ebay ebay will give you access to them. Be careful on exhaust studs, often the part which screws into the engine is a courser thread than the nut which screws on the end.
Hope this has been helpful to you.
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As regards to your request for a manual , one of the rules is not to post links
However, you''ll find what you need on Goggle!
Just type in "xt125r manual" and you'll be surprised what you can find, i did it and I found what you were looking for. I must confess I'm a little surprised you didn't try that first. Good luck
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1 hour ago, Trevors said:
wanted to know right know is exactly how the speedometer / clocks operate.
Welcome Trevors, see if this helps you.
Your speedometer is digital on your bike which is not a lot different to a bicycle/pushbike speedo. In that it has no moving parts as such. It's just a little computer displaying data from sensors on the bike. The speedo sensor is on a lead which detects the rotations of a moving part, this is generally the front wheel just like a bicycle. It uses a few mathmatical calculations, diameter of the wheel / revolutions etc and works out the speed and distance travelled of the wheel. The maths is part of a program stored within the silicone chips mounted on the internal circuit boards within the instrument. These calculations are then displayed on the digital readout in front of you.
In the past motorbikes used a mechanical method. This included a rotating spigot with a type of gear wheel incorporated within a housing on the front wheel, which was turned by the action of the front axle/wheel , this rotated a length of speedo cable which connected the front wheel to the speedo clocks. Within the dashboard instrument, was another set of cogs which were rotated by the 'spinning' speedo cable which in turn caused the speedo needle to move and the mileometer to count upwards. The size of the cogs, number of teeth, ratios, rpms also gave a 'mathmatical calculation, although In most cases the speedo displayed much faster speeds than you were actually doing!!
Meanwhile, why not pop over to the intro section for new members if you intend to hang around. (many people seem to post a question or two and never post again)
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hi there, welcome to the club, pop over to the intro section for new members if you intend to hang around. (many people seem to post a question and never post again)
Yambits and wemoto websites are pretty good for many small parts/perishable parts (brakes, cables, tyres, chains) and dedicated tools. Bigger parts, fairings,wheels, tanks, forks, instruments then you're going to be looking on ebay or similar auction sites.
As with all bikes there will be 'rare as hens teeth parts' these are generally the exhaust system and certain engine and suspension parts, keeping your existing parts in good order or repair is the only way forward, or these bikes get sold on (often with these pending problems)
Remember, the bike is nearly 50 years old and so will these bigger parts be. Over the years "new old stock parts" have been slowly bought up by those that also needed them, they (the shops) would not have replenished them.
You'll find that there's generally not a big enough call to get parts remanufactured unless the bike has a large following. My bikes are 1975 and 78 so i have first hand experience of your situation. Hope this is helpful to you.
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I've got the almost identical 10.8v dewalt impact driver DCF815 , (1/4in drive chuck and only 107nm) otherwise same shell body and battery.
it's extremely light weight compared to Dewalt 18v version, mainly due to the smaller 10v battery, but it does mean you can get it in tighter places without the bigger battery getting in the way. Probably not man enough for your needs as you say the DCF813 is rated at 130nm.
I did however get mine from TW wholesale (Impact & hammer kit) for £130. Unfortunately they don't stock your 813. Another company I've used in the past London Power Tools do have it in stock for £136 which includes free delivery
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On 6/30/2020 at 3:33 PM, maximokmo said:
The bike has custom handlebars and forks from a more modern DT. Maybe when they were changed, the throttle cable was too short? How can I lengthen the throttle cable so that the carb slide can sit all the way down?
I've just re read your first post. When you say small, i think you mean short? yes?
I think herein is your problem! If the controls now sit higher up than the original bars then presumably this is putting the cables under tension and raising the slide?.
If it's under tension the outer cable will feel taught with no slack. Is that what is happening? Remember also when the front end bounces on the fork travel, the cable needs to be 'long enough' to accommodate this.
(Unless you can find a longer dual throttle cable from a taller bike which is similar to the 125, the 'only' answer to rectify this may be (in my opinion) is to revert back to stock handlebars and forks.?)
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"junction box is full of cream coloured greasy gunk"
They all are.! it's a type of lithum grease which is white and specially designed for use where plastic is used. Oil based products can cause plastics to degrade when in constant contact with it, they tend to go brittle. WD40 may well clean it but it was packed with the white grease to maintain lubrication over time, something which WD40 won't do as its just a relatively short acting lubricating spray.
Lithium grease is readily available.
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hi there, Ive just had a look in the past forum and found this ...
might be useful?
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hi guys, thought I'd just share this with you, it made me chuckle initially!
Over a year ago I declared SORN on my DT as I hadn't used it for a while , the tax was due and I was having a bit of trouble getting it MOT'd as the guys were claiming they wouldn't MOT it on the rear tyre as it had "IN USA & CANADA- NOT FOR ROAD USE". stamped on it. Even though they had been successfuly passing it with the same rear tyre for the past several years! I tried to fight my corner saying we're not in the USA where the statement applies! this is the UK but he said he wouldn't pass it if I was to put it in for an MOT. He said he was trying to save me the fail and all i had to do was replace the rear tyre and bring it back and it would be fine. So I thought, you know, I'm not going to argue with him, forget it!
I was aware I wasn't going to use it for the time being and It would be 40 years old next year (i.e 2020) so the sensible thing was to declare it SORN leave it 'till next year and then get it changed to HISTORIC vehicle and take responsiblity for the MOT. Then i wouldn't have to take it back to the MOT station where this guy had taken over. So that's what i did.
Roll on to the end of 2019 and we moved house and in January I duly sent off my V5c to give my new address. At the same time , I thought I'd declare the bike Historic with the change of address, signed the MOT declaration and sent it all off. No problem, relatively straight forward until I didn't get the V5 back at the end of 8 weeks so I had to request a replacement . Unfortunately, everything got further delayed due to Covid but the good news is this week i got my new V5 with new address and new taxation class. Phoned up the insurance and got it reinsured and all back on the road with the same rear tyre! and at no cost ! All free save for the insurance.
Then today i get a surprise in the form of a cheque from DVLA for £32 for a tax refund! ....Very nice too....but I've not taxed it!!!
What on earth is going on?. it's been SORN for over a year and I've not paid in any money to them. All very bizarre!!
I think its quite funny that people have difficulty getting refunds for whatever reason and i get one without asking for one!!
However, joking aside my concern is why did they send me a refund?
Has someone got my missing v5C? and tried to tax it? and now I've got the replacement v5, they've sent ME the refund?
it's all a mystery for sure.
As regards to the cheque, I'm by nature a very honest person and as I'm not entitled to it, i won't be cashing it in, but i would like to know why it's happened. Unfortunately DVLA are not dealing with enquires due to reduced staffing, so for the moment I can't pursue it.
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Any update? or are they closed at the moment.
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Welcome Ben, must confess didnt see your first post, nonetheless hope you find what you're looking for. Unfortunately I know nothing about your chosen bike. However, post a pic as I've never seen one myself.
Good luck and once again welcome.
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You mean ...these things?
mmm, or are these just slip on rear exhaust covers? looking at the price it might well be. having said that might be worth contacting them, see if they know any more?
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FURTHER UPDATE: ....a little more redtape.
When I did my 400/4 in 2018 I completed an online form to declare the bike MOT exempt, however, that was using V11 reminder.
When I did my change of address and change of taxation class for my DT175 (see post above) there is no online declaration!, so I phoned them up.
Guess what? ....I now have to send back my new V5C along with a V112 form Declaration of Exemption of MOT. ......and another V10 form!! I did point out that I'd already done this! but apparently they come as a pair!!, you can't send one without the other!
All being well, it will come back in a ? few weeks....
So two slightly different procedures. The Honda from the V11 and the Yamaha using the V10 plus a V112.
You won't find the process written down on the DVLA website that's for sure!
It always helps when someone's actually done it and is able to share their experience I always say! Hopefully this may be of help to anyone else changing their taxation class to Historic.
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(I know its an old topic but the title still stands.)
UPDATE:
Having recently moved further along the coast I sent in my V5c for change of address for my DT175MX and at the same time, I thought I'd change the taxation class to HISTORIC VEHICLE as she's now over 40 years old.
Both were relatively straight forward, although there was some red tape and hoops to jump through!
They changed the address first and sent the new V5C back to me along with a V10 form to fill in and send both back. (even though I'd done all this on the 'change my details' of the original.) Seems a bit of waste of postage as all i did was put my name and address on it and the bike details along with change of taxation class!) A week or so later I've been sent another V5C with the new historic taxation class.
No fee to pay it was all done 'free' save for the price of two stamps!
So now both my bikes are 'HISTORIC VEHCILES' and subsequently the MOT is down to my responsibility as above.
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I use mine for commuting to and fro from work 15 miles a day, three or four days a week and I get around 100~110miles per tank. (7 litre. 1.80gal tank size).
semi urban traffic, several sets of traffic lights and roundabouts so tend to be up and down the gearbox a bit. Mainly 30~45 mph.
I remember a few years ago I did a trip along a dual carriage way , several 5 to 10 mile stretches for over 20 miles, I must confess , I didn't like running the engine at a constant speed/revs, it got hot and it wasn't very comfortable. In my opinion being a TRIAL bike, its not really designed to cruise, but is better suited to go over rough ground with lots of rev and speed changes. If you're looking at cruising for several hours I'd be looking at a road bike myself.
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That post Dan... was back in December 2015 !!!
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I've just been trawling through a few piston ring manufactures websites AE , Hastings, Nevlock, MI, and found an answer to the question of the spring ring behind: ..." It is their to apply additional radial pressure to the piston ring. This increases the unit pressure applied at the cylinder wall. "
So there you go.!
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The purpose of the "wiggly ring" is to keep the lower ring central, taking up the free space (regardless of how much space you perceive there to be!) and keeps the ring central and equi-distant all around.
Just because the original rings don't have them is no basis to leave them out.
You may find that the original ring is a little wider in its cross section thereby not needing them, whereas the newer ring may be that little bit smaller to enable the 'wiggly ring to sit behind it!! Manufacturers don't include them for fun or as an 'optional extra' after all their R&D.
When I did my engine , i put them in as supplied..... If l had left them out and for whatever reason I wasn't happy with the performance ....I wouldn't want to strip it ALL down again just to put them in!!
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Welcome G Digger, nice to have you on board. ive got the slightly smaller DT175MX but not that dissimilar. Whats your general location? (don't give your address out) but you never know someone might live nearby and can offer more than advice.
Sorry, but just can't help it.
in The Bar
Posted
Mike, if you haven't already you should consider downloading "Radio Caroline Flashback" radio app for your phone. It's ALL this type of music with no adverts at all. I have it on all the time. Be aware though there are TWO Radio carolines...one is Album tracks the other (Flashback) is the singles. 60's 70's and some 80's and early 90's. I'm sure you'll enjoy it.