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JacobHendry

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Everything posted by JacobHendry

  1. Thanks guys, I do have the correct wiring diagram, got it from yourself OG, it's the round swing arm I've got. I'm just trying to make these 2 separate earth circuits link together as they should be, and so looking at the diagram it appears that the battery negative goes to the regulator and from there plugs into the loom. At the moment I have 2 black wires emerging from the rear end of the loom, 1 to the battery and the other to the regulator, but the 1 to the battery has another 3 wires spliced into it, going to the oil level plug, tail light plug and the CDI but connects to nothing else. The black from the regulator goes back through the loom, connects to the Coil and then connects to all the other earth plugs in the headlamp end of the loom. My idea was to run another wire from the regulator to the battery negative which then links the 2 circuits, or should I bother? My other problem in the loom is that I have 2 Blue/Red wires running through which then splice into 1 ending in a plug which then goes to the tail light plug. I'm going to check that as that's maybe where I'm losing the 0.8 Volts. Paul
  2. Hi again guys, back with more questions! Decided that I would strip back the loom a few days ago to see if I could shed any more light on the problem I’ve been having. Not a pretty sight. Been repaired and changed a lot! One thing that has been changed is that there are now two separate earth circuits within this loom. One starting from the regulator and the other starting from the battery, and at no point do they meet within the loom, therefore first thing is to rectify that then check out the Blue/Red which has been altered, chopped and joined somewhat. Having studied the wiring diagram and photos of a new loom on eBay would I be right in saying that the black from the loom attaches to the regulator and then a cable from the regulator goes to the battery negative. Does that sound right to other DT owners? Thanks Paul
  3. Battery is relatively new, back in April/May and I did charge it last week. Took readings 1/Horn not very happy sounding without the engine running 2/ With ignition key in lights position I get 5.28 Volts across the battery 3/ Across the blue wire and battery negative I get 4.48 Volts I did have a look last week at an electronic relay wondering if it would make a big enough difference to stop this dimming. I've had other bikes in the past and yes the lights have always been pretty shit but I've never had anything like this where it's such an obvious dimming, the tail light disappears to almost nothing then lights back up during the other part of the indicator cycle. Thanks for all your help guys, I'm sure there is a solution out there!
  4. Hi guys, I'm still working on sorting out this tail light dimming problem when the indicators are on. Had an inspirational thought and bought a LED bulb for the tail light thinking that it would take so little power that sould solve the problem. It didn't ! Now, being aware that electrics are not a strong point of mine, I've been thinking about the regulator. I know, but it's better than counting sheep to go to sleep! Could the regulator be the problem? If it's not working properly and when the lights and indicators are on it's not sending the correct amount of power back to the battery because it's fluctuating, then there wont be enough battery power to have both items on at once. Does that seem plausible? Have I explained my thoughts properly? Any comments much appreciated as this really does my head in. Thanks Paul
  5. Hi, other than changing the top end all I did when I converted mine was to swop the Main Jet and the Pilot Jet for the 125 specs. Runs perfectly.
  6. "Not sure if this helps, but I was having some similar problems with my dt175. The headlight, then the turn signals, nothing seemed to work then sometimes they would. You probably have a similar product over there, but I got a can of electrical contact cleaner and took apart all the switches. The switches on both sides were heavily coroded. After some spraying and light cleaning with a wire brush/fine sandpaper all the problems went away." Thanks for the suggestion but I did actually have all the switches apart and cleaned when I first got the bike and all the contacts seem to be fine. I've now got a lingering feeling that the problem lies in the tail lamp somewhere, unfortunately I would have to cut it off so that'll have to wait until I can get a new one. I got it MoTd yesterday with the indicators off so I'm just going to put them back on now as the tail lamp flashing isn't as bad as the front light was. "I think I've got some electrical issues to sort on the DT175MX I'm rebuilding. I haven't got the engine fully built yet, so can't test the headlights, but at present, when the light switch is in the off position, and the key in the second position, the instrument lights are on. And when I turn the switch on, the lights go out!" Good luck! One thing I did discover on mine was that all the instrument lights were in the wrong place, someone had replaced blubs at one time but didn't pay attention when they put them back, sof ull beam appeared to be on but was in actual fact the neutral indicator! etc etc
  7. Well happy news for a change. Tried what you suggested Paul to see what voltage was flowing and then proceeded to go round and check everything again. Everything as it was so had a look at the tail lamp bulb, took it out and re-inserted and hey presto I have a rear light and a brake light working as they should. Having messed about with the bulb it seems that there's a very strange connection within the light housing. It's not the normal bayonet socket you would expect, doesn't seem to hold the bulb correctly. You think that the bulb is in, but give it another twist and it comes out. It's not the original lamp fitting anyway so was on my list to change when I find one. Unfortunately it appears impossible to remove without drilling/hacksawing as I did have a look at it when I first got the bike and it's totally corroded on. Mind you that doesn't explain why I could't get brake and tail lights functioning together! Anyway as my father, who spent all his life fixing cars is always saying, check the simple things first!!
  8. Thanks for that Paul, I'll try that tomorrow morning
  9. Well back with another strange update. Took the indicators off and put lights and everything back in it's place prior to getting MoTd, and discovered that the brake lights will not come on when the lights are on! They used to! They work perfectly without the lights but nothing when they're on. The only thing I had done was put a new rear brake light switch on last week, so duely wired up the old one again but still the same. I hadn't bothered leaving the front side light in as it's not required so tried it back in again. Even put the indicator relay back on just in case. I cannot think why this is happening. They worked perfectly with the ights on a week ago, but not now. Any help appreciated Paul
  10. Well, have tried with low wattage bulbs all round, still same problem. Tried a new earth from the rear light, another earth from the battery, still no change. I'm going to just take the indicators off and get the MoT, then shove them back on, and try to enjoy what's left of the summer on the bike. Nice weather up here at the moment! Thanks for every bodies help. Paul
  11. Hi guys The switch certainly looks original and has six wires. Haven't tried lower wattage bulbs, certainly an idea. I'll see if I can get some tomorrow. Thanks for the wiring diagram Paul, it's very obvious now that you mention it that I had the wrong one, just didn't occur to me. Did have an idea which I don't know whether it's possible or not. I've discovered that you don't actually need a front side light for the MoT so by removing the bulb I remove the poblem of it flashing in time with the indicators. I still though have the problem of the rear lamp still flashing, albeit not as bad as the front light. Would it be possible to somehow disconnect the power to the tail lamp on the second key position ie when the side light goes on, and only have it lit when the actual light switch is in the on position? Mind you, I don't know whether it would still flash with the headlamp on do I!
  12. Ahaha, and the bike is a 2K4. So wonder why it has a different loom then? Do you know off the top of your head which corresponding wires I need to check?
  13. Had a look at the light socket wiring today, and am slightly confused. My wiring colours are different from what you said and the 2 wiring diagrams I have! I have in the six wire lighting socket the following: Black Red/White Blue/Red Dark Brown Brown/White Green(dark?) plus a single Green, Yellow, Blue and the Pink. The loom side is identical other than the Dark Brown and Green(dark?) have 2 wires into their connectors. So I'm struggling to work out the corresponding wires to check (and also wondering why I have a different wiring scheme)! Confused!
  14. Back again guys with an update. Been away with the grand-rug rats on holiday so haven't managed to do much. They go home tomorrow (tiredly thankful he says) Tried the jumper from the battery to the relay, but no luck. Side light and rear light still flash when the indicators are on, but one thing that I have noticed, that I hadn't paid attention to before, is that is that the rear light flashing is actually a lot less obvious when compared to the front. Hmmm. I did actually replace the ignition switch when I got the bike as the original one was knackered. Would doing the same for the lights (ie jumper them from the battery) help with any solutions? Paul
  15. Thanks for that guys, can't try anything out at the moment, son is getting married in a couple of hours! will be back at it again at the weekend and let you know how it goes. Paul
  16. Now for the update on this saga. Tried every earth wire I can find, checked every cable and everything seems to work as it should, including new horn being impressively loud. The guy at the garage also mentioned that the rear indicators did't seem to be very bright compared to the front, so eventually checked the bulbs - 8 watts instead of 18 or so. Never thought to check this as they were brand new from Red Rose in Yorkshire. So as I needed to buy bulbs anyway I decided to get another flasher unit, even though it was a new one I had put on, just in case it was draining power. Put bulbs and it all on today but no joy, still the same problem. The side light and tail light very obviously flash/dim when the indicators are on. When the indicators are in the flash cycle these two bulbs go very very dim, when the indicator changes they sharpen up to their normal light. So I'm back to square one. I know it's a crappy 6 volt system but there must be something draining the current because if you were standing in front of the bike and the indicators were on, it really looks like you have a white flashing light, not just dimming, working out of sync with the indicators. Out of ideas now. I can get it passed without the indicators but it took me ages to find the wiring in the loom and get them working that I really want them to work!!! (Aaaagh sound of frustration)
  17. Hi I recently did this the other way round, DT 175 to 125. As Cynic says, full top end change, barrel, piston and head and I changed The Main Jet and the Pilot Jet in the Carb. Paul
  18. Thanks for that, just about to go outside and start earth hunting!
  19. Hi guys, back again for some advice. Took the bike for it's MoT today, unfortunately it failed. Main reason was because of the horn. It was pouring rain all the way there and the horn refused to give more than a squak, even dried out. Ordered another one from Yambits so should be here tomorrow. Other failure point ws something I mentioned before. When the indicators are on the lights dimm/flicker/flash/"are adversely affected by the operation of another lamp" as the lad put it. Also when the horn button was pushed same thing happened. Could this be a bad earth somewhere? If so, is it just a process of going through all of them or are there any more likely than others? Or is it something else? Any help much appreciated. Paul
  20. Thanks for that explanation, it make sense now (of a sort!)and they do work as they should And on the subject of the dimming lights when the indicators are on, I'm presuming that this is to be expected on an old DT. Paul
  21. Yes, more a dimming/brightening thing, and the engine was revving at the time. Reason I'm confused about the lights part is that the lettering has rubbed off on the switch and I'm going by memory as to what they should say. So the right hand switch on the left hand light control, if you see what I mean, is an On/Off, and the left hand High/Low is Dipped and Main. That makes more sense. Thank you for that. Paul
  22. Hi guys, Hopefully you can help me again. The 175 MX is almost back on the road as a 125 MX. New piston in, engine back together and sounds good, exhaust back on (slight leak at the manifold but fire gum will sort that) electrics all back together and working and the indicators flash wonderfully, but ...... when the lights are on, so do they! Any quick ideas? Everything else seems fine. Brake lights work, horn, speedo light, rev counter and the warning lights work now (someone had managed to mix up the rev counter, indicator and neutral lights when they had put it together at some point!) As soon as I have the lights on with the indicators I have both lights and indicators flashing and my brain is frazzled trying to work it out. And as I'm writing this something else is gnawing at me. When you turn the key to the lights position it should only be the side light that is on if the switch is at Low? Dipped is High and the other switch is for Full Beam. Now I'm thinking that Dipped maybe comes on regardless of the position of the High/Low switch! Very frazzled now. If anybody has any suggestions I'd be very grateful. Paul
  23. Thanks for you help OG and Cynic. This explanation just didn't seem right to me either. Paul
  24. Hi Guys I’ve posted a couple of times here regarding my 1980 DT 175MX which I’ve converted down to a 125 by swapping the barrel, head and piston. Hopefully you can help me with this one! After running the 125 engine for a few miles I decided that the honing I had done hadn’t been enough and it sounded like I had a bit of piston slap so I decided it needed re-boring and a new piston. Job done and I picked it up yesterday. At home I looked at the piston and realised it was different from the original. It has no open ports on the reed valve side of it, and is solid all the way round other than the hope for the gudgeon pin. The make is Mitaka. Duly took it back and the chap at the workshop said he would call their suppliers and call me back. Just had a call back and he tells me that the supplier recommends this type of piston for my engine because by closing off the reed valves it increases the crankcase pressure and gives better performance and is a far superior piston. But they do have the type that I was expecting and would change it if I wanted. This is a bit beyond my knowledge of the Yamaha 2 stroke engine. I assumed (mistakenly?) that the ports were necessary to help lubricate the crank. Can anyone help on this? Will this piston be okay in my bike? The box it came in does actually have DT 125R on it, so do you think they aren’t listening to how old this bike is and just lumping all DTs together? Any help much appreciated Thanks Paul
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