JacobHendry

Thanks guys, I do have the correct wiring diagram, got it from yourself OG, it's the round swing arm I've got. I'm just trying to make these 2 separate earth circuits link together as they should be, and so looking at the diagram it appears that the battery negative goes to the regulator and from there plugs into the loom. At the moment I have 2 black wires emerging from the rear end of the loom, 1 to the battery and the other to the regulator, but the 1 to the battery has another 3 wires spliced into it, going to the oil level plug, tail light plug and the CDI but connects to nothing else. The black from the regulator goes back through the loom, connects to the Coil and then connects to all the other earth plugs in the headlamp end of the loom. My idea was to run another wire from the regulator to the battery negative which then links the 2 circuits, or should I bother? My other problem in the loom is that I have 2 Blue/Red wires running through which then splice into 1 ending in a plug which then goes to the tail light plug. I'm going to check that as that's maybe where I'm losing the 0.8 Volts. Paul

Hi again guys, back with more questions! Decided that I would strip back the loom a few days ago to see if I could shed any more light on the problem I’ve been having. Not a pretty sight. Been repaired and changed a lot! One thing that has been changed is that there are now two separate earth circuits within this loom. One starting from the regulator and the other starting from the battery, and at no point do they meet within the loom, therefore first thing is to rectify that then check out the Blue/Red which has been altered, chopped and joined somewhat. Having studied the wiring diagram and photos of a new loom on eBay would I be right in saying that the black from the loom attaches to the regulator and then a cable from the regulator goes to the battery negative. Does that sound right to other DT owners? Thanks Paul

Battery is relatively new, back in April/May and I did charge it last week. Took readings 1/Horn not very happy sounding without the engine running 2/ With ignition key in lights position I get 5.28 Volts across the battery 3/ Across the blue wire and battery negative I get 4.48 Volts I did have a look last week at an electronic relay wondering if it would make a big enough difference to stop this dimming. I've had other bikes in the past and yes the lights have always been pretty shit but I've never had anything like this where it's such an obvious dimming, the tail light disappears to almost nothing then lights back up during the other part of the indicator cycle. Thanks for all your help guys, I'm sure there is a solution out there!

Hi guys, I'm still working on sorting out this tail light dimming problem when the indicators are on. Had an inspirational thought and bought a LED bulb for the tail light thinking that it would take so little power that sould solve the problem. It didn't ! Now, being aware that electrics are not a strong point of mine, I've been thinking about the regulator. I know, but it's better than counting sheep to go to sleep! Could the regulator be the problem? If it's not working properly and when the lights and indicators are on it's not sending the correct amount of power back to the battery because it's fluctuating, then there wont be enough battery power to have both items on at once. Does that seem plausible? Have I explained my thoughts properly? Any comments much appreciated as this really does my head in. Thanks Paul

Hi, other than changing the top end all I did when I converted mine was to swop the Main Jet and the Pilot Jet for the 125 specs. Runs perfectly.

"Not sure if this helps, but I was having some similar problems with my dt175. The headlight, then the turn signals, nothing seemed to work then sometimes they would. You probably have a similar product over there, but I got a can of electrical contact cleaner and took apart all the switches. The switches on both sides were heavily coroded. After some spraying and light cleaning with a wire brush/fine sandpaper all the problems went away." Thanks for the suggestion but I did actually have all the switches apart and cleaned when I first got the bike and all the contacts seem to be fine. I've now got a lingering feeling that the problem lies in the tail lamp somewhere, unfortunately I would have to cut it off so that'll have to wait until I can get a new one. I got it MoTd yesterday with the indicators off so I'm just going to put them back on now as the tail lamp flashing isn't as bad as the front light was. "I think I've got some electrical issues to sort on the DT175MX I'm rebuilding. I haven't got the engine fully built yet, so can't test the headlights, but at present, when the light switch is in the off position, and the key in the second position, the instrument lights are on. And when I turn the switch on, the lights go out!" Good luck! One thing I did discover on mine was that all the instrument lights were in the wrong place, someone had replaced blubs at one time but didn't pay attention when they put them back, sof ull beam appeared to be on but was in actual fact the neutral indicator! etc etc

Well happy news for a change. Tried what you suggested Paul to see what voltage was flowing and then proceeded to go round and check everything again. Everything as it was so had a look at the tail lamp bulb, took it out and re-inserted and hey presto I have a rear light and a brake light working as they should. Having messed about with the bulb it seems that there's a very strange connection within the light housing. It's not the normal bayonet socket you would expect, doesn't seem to hold the bulb correctly. You think that the bulb is in, but give it another twist and it comes out. It's not the original lamp fitting anyway so was on my list to change when I find one. Unfortunately it appears impossible to remove without drilling/hacksawing as I did have a look at it when I first got the bike and it's totally corroded on. Mind you that doesn't explain why I could't get brake and tail lights functioning together! Anyway as my father, who spent all his life fixing cars is always saying, check the simple things first!!

Thanks for that Paul, I'll try that tomorrow morning

Well back with another strange update. Took the indicators off and put lights and everything back in it's place prior to getting MoTd, and discovered that the brake lights will not come on when the lights are on! They used to! They work perfectly without the lights but nothing when they're on. The only thing I had done was put a new rear brake light switch on last week, so duely wired up the old one again but still the same. I hadn't bothered leaving the front side light in as it's not required so tried it back in again. Even put the indicator relay back on just in case. I cannot think why this is happening. They worked perfectly with the ights on a week ago, but not now. Any help appreciated Paul

Well, have tried with low wattage bulbs all round, still same problem. Tried a new earth from the rear light, another earth from the battery, still no change. I'm going to just take the indicators off and get the MoT, then shove them back on, and try to enjoy what's left of the summer on the bike. Nice weather up here at the moment! Thanks for every bodies help. Paul

Hi guys The switch certainly looks original and has six wires. Haven't tried lower wattage bulbs, certainly an idea. I'll see if I can get some tomorrow. Thanks for the wiring diagram Paul, it's very obvious now that you mention it that I had the wrong one, just didn't occur to me. Did have an idea which I don't know whether it's possible or not. I've discovered that you don't actually need a front side light for the MoT so by removing the bulb I remove the poblem of it flashing in time with the indicators. I still though have the problem of the rear lamp still flashing, albeit not as bad as the front light. Would it be possible to somehow disconnect the power to the tail lamp on the second key position ie when the side light goes on, and only have it lit when the actual light switch is in the on position? Mind you, I don't know whether it would still flash with the headlamp on do I!

Ahaha, and the bike is a 2K4. So wonder why it has a different loom then? Do you know off the top of your head which corresponding wires I need to check?

Had a look at the light socket wiring today, and am slightly confused. My wiring colours are different from what you said and the 2 wiring diagrams I have! I have in the six wire lighting socket the following: Black Red/White Blue/Red Dark Brown Brown/White Green(dark?) plus a single Green, Yellow, Blue and the Pink. The loom side is identical other than the Dark Brown and Green(dark?) have 2 wires into their connectors. So I'm struggling to work out the corresponding wires to check (and also wondering why I have a different wiring scheme)! Confused!

Back again guys with an update. Been away with the grand-rug rats on holiday so haven't managed to do much. They go home tomorrow (tiredly thankful he says) Tried the jumper from the battery to the relay, but no luck. Side light and rear light still flash when the indicators are on, but one thing that I have noticed, that I hadn't paid attention to before, is that is that the rear light flashing is actually a lot less obvious when compared to the front. Hmmm. I did actually replace the ignition switch when I got the bike as the original one was knackered. Would doing the same for the lights (ie jumper them from the battery) help with any solutions? Paul

Thanks for that guys, can't try anything out at the moment, son is getting married in a couple of hours! will be back at it again at the weekend and let you know how it goes. Paul