ryan-4hw

sounds about rite, eco run on a moped? is that possible lol, if youve added a air filter, exhaust, up-jetted to match and all the extra little go faster stripes then your fuel consumption will go up. my tzr125r would do about 250-300miles on £12 then i bored it to 185 with a 6mm increase in the carb running a 230jet over the stock 180 jet, custom portmatched pipe and ram-air filter and my fuel consumtion went to about 90miles to £10

ive got a plastic tank from a 2MA if thats anyhelp to you, mite need to swap a few tank-cap screws over but its not leaking, make me an offer if it fits. 07792675259 Ryan

sounds like your carb isnt set right, i have the same problem at the mo on my tzr185r, veing a rite bitch! i had a tzr125r with a 30mm carb, yeah it ran and accelerated but then i stuck a 28mm carb from my crosser which i knew was jetted to a tolerabl;e 125 engine requirements, its went like stink! dt 125 standard issue rejet should be about 50quid. you said you lost a rad rose.... let me guess it was the one on top of the cyclinder (next to spark plug) if so this wasnt loose its the tell-tale sign of a warped head (easy fix) watch this rad pipe when your riding (obviously stop and check) it will be twice its usual thickness (b'coz your cylinder pressure is getting into your water system, hence blowing pipes off, if it was a diff pipe then let me know, ive been tinkering with these engines (dt-tzr only) foir a few yrs and swear by them! great indestructable little engi is this the servo fed powervalve model? i know some have a electric resrictor to open the P/valve at 6k ish and then close it again about 9-10k, if so peg it in open position and see if you still have the same top end power issues, if so its carb or possibly the start of head warpage (dont leave unchecked for too long

any body interested in my exhaust, its brand new, was built specific for the ...cc conversion kit, only problem was i have a ... model and he didnt make taht, he made this. i can provide any pics or measurements, im sure its for teh ... model, it has a silver endcan with the bosson logo embossed on the side, looks nice to be honest. just thought i would offer it on here before i let ebay get there hands on it sensible offers please Ryan 0779.......... Sorry Ryan..against forum rules to post for sale outside of the for sale section

pick a gear, say 4th for example, then just clock the revs at certain speeds, then with a glance you know what gear your in by the revs, if your doin 60 and the revs are above your 4th gear bench mark then you in a low gear and vice versa, and to the man mentions 2strokes! your damn right, i was going for a 2nd to 3rd overtake, had a arse about tit moment and stuck it in 1st, im still in the process of what is similar to a prostate exam, i found 1 of them but the tank has moved the other dangley far away from its usual hiding place

my mate is a short arse too, he can ride a dt, he's 5'nothing seriously its do-able, both old skool dt and new supermoto, bear in mind once you plant your on it its gonna compress (springs - funny things) and if your buying new its ride height will drop slighty once the springs/shocks have bedded in. hope it helps

the 600mile service is basic! as the bike is brand new and put together by idiots working for a tub of smarties a day occaisionally you get bolts come undone! any probs will show in the 1st 600 miles! DO NOT do the service yourself! you will invalidate your warranty! and any probs taht may arise will be yours to pay for! let them do it! they top up your oil, look over the brakes, check they are wearing evenly etc but what ever you do DO NOT service it yourself! pay the 50ish notes and keep your warranty

tzr125r 4hw? not many of those about, i know coz i own 1. parts are a nightmare. the dt cylinder will perform the same as the tzr cylinder. they're the same part, i believe the tezzer has a slighty different powervalve to the dt (owned them both) and with regards to your wiring loom, again rare as rocking horse shit. you mentioned you were looking for more power, have you earthed the wires under your leftside rear fairing (cant remeber exactly which 1's) but that opens it up to 12.000rpm and beyond (hehehe) what does your cylinder say on the side? 4FU? 3MB? there is various stamps, depending on which you have i could tell you if you have a shitter or a good 1. i think i still have various cylinders about the place, even got a old tzr head with the ports worked on it, but it wont fit on your without so frame mods

1997 dt 175? are you sure? is that a 1977 dt 175? or a 97 dt125 with the big bore kit? dont think they make a '97 dt175. hhhmm lets see 90kmh so thats about 60mph (in proper speed)ok well motocross bikes generally dont go beyond this. the other fella is right about the smaller rear sprocket (or larger front sprocket, just to confuse you) if its the old '77dt then it probably shouldnt be doing more than 60mph, if its the '97 with a big bore then just do the usual DT tricks or de-restricting - exhuast and powervalve. theres half a dozen sites telling you how to do this, just google it. let us know what bike you actually have and if its a newer one i know most bits about them

let me guess, its not a big bike so not worth your time (hhmmm were did yamys get there heritage from??? was it making awesome mind blowing 2strokes?? hhmmm yes) so all the fat office workers tryin to relive the youth they never had buying there R1's its not for you, u only know what your bike does by reading the sales brochure, im looking for the greasy mechanics who think engine oil goes well on a sandwich, people like me. so if any1 has the vital measurements for the older yzf's etc it be helpful spindle diameter disc size fixing pattern - disc and sprocket and relevent width of sprocket to disc and disc to disc (front and back) just so i know if i have to rearrange the calipers etc surely some1 out there gonna help

you have the same rings (only smaller)on either side of the powervalve, they take the pressure and heat and technically have more area on display to get affected (servo controlled powervalve that is) i have a 125 bored out to 185 and cant get a gasket for it so i use the o-ring setup, its clamped down that tight its almost invisible, works fine. if your unsure about your head and cyclinder warpage dont go pay some1 to do the work, grab your mums or wifes 'marble' chopping board and gaffa tape some 1200grit wet and dry on it, then work either the head or cylinder in left to right motions just to get a wear pattern on them, then have a look and check your wear pattern covers all the area your working (still with me) if your wear pattern covers the whole area then it is not warped (dips and pits etc) if there is a little patch woith no wear pattern, that would be your problem. after you have your wear pattern remember to finish the piece with circular sanding motion. must be a marble chopping board (perfectly flat) and try no to push to hard when sanding (imagine your playing air hockey, let it glide or you mite bevel it off) yup i had my dt in bits many times and didnt see the point in buying new! its a DT, indestructable, i ran 1 with 1 ring and a back to front piston (drunken mechanics) and it still pulled 45 ish have fun fella its the wet season! jelous as hell now.......

beautiful, im going through the same issues, its taken me 8months on fairing mods, only got 5months left of the ban and a whole engine to rebuild and lots of framework stuff to do. with a severe lack of finances! but like u say determination and late nights work wonders (coffee sandwiches help) so any closer to the colour scheme yet?

rememebring my bike shop sales bollox, the bridgestone bt020 + 021 have dual composite, the centre of the tyre is harder for day to day straight lining etc and a nice soft bit for sunday prayers (down on 1 knee son)

time to start eliminating things, your cylinder you say has no thermostat, so it flows through the head fine, ur rad works as intended, your 'impeller' (not propeller - just me being pernickety) works and spins freely have you looked at your bottom end? between impeller and were it would meet the nicely working cylinder. i remember on my old dt (bless her cotton socks) when the head gasket went it allowed engine pressure into the water system (fortunately water didnt enter the cyclinder) thus buggering up the water system as the engine pressure was greater. a big tell-tale sign is after 5 or 10 mins of running the waterpipe coming off the top of the head (leading back to rad) would swell to twice its size. if this is the case then swap your head gasket (little tip - using 2 o-ring gasket washers (what ever they called) use these as gaskets to replace the original so you would need 1 approx 60mm diameter and then 1 about 85-90mm these will happily stop water leaking from the head and also seperate the cylinder and water system. much cheaper than a ebay job) hope this helps mate

hi, i own a tzr 4fl (same frame etc as the 250 3xv) does any1 know if the early yzf's etc wheels will fit? its the run of the mill 3spokes im hopin to move onto 4.5 rear and 3.5 front. ive measured every thing i can think of but no1 on ebay seems to give measurements back when you ask. i know there is clearance for larger wheels my only query is spindle size etc. so if any1 has got any knowledge of this, it would be helpful or even better if some1 has a pair of old thunderace wheel sitting convenientlyt next to a tape measure (wink wink) it would be handy. Thanks Ryan