TylerP

I've replaced many as well. It's a piece of cake. If you heat the cases hot enough for the bearing to drop in (which is good),it will likely melt the outer edge of the new seal. The ONLY crank seals that have a lip on the outside edge are for cases the split up & down. Like an RZ350. Cases that split side to side can not possibly have a seal with a lip on it cause you could never drive it in without damaging it.

The fuel tank may work but you will need a T fitting to make a fuel line go to both carbs. Getting it in there without kinks or pinching it may be tricky. If the rear end will bolt up and everything will fit (splined shafts,ring gear into the wheel,ect),why not. I dont know if the motor will swap into the 750 frame or not. You will also need the wiring harness and CDI box for the ignition to work. It will be a pain for sure. The starters on those old XV's were about as bad as they came and a lot of parts are NLA. Once a major part goes bad and you can not find a used one the bike is done. They are good riding bikes.

THAT IS NOT CORRECT..... On my 75 DT175 either side crank seal can be removed without splitting the cases. So,there is a way in hell!

You should be able to gently pry the old seal out if it's bad. Unless it is behind a lip of the case. Two things come to mind here for me. Check the jetting specs in the carb. You may need to go up a size on the main jet if it is seizing up at sustained higher rpm. The other is piston to cylinder clearances. If you made it a tight fit this can be a problem to. Also,try running a cooler range plug.

It will only have one mixture screw. The other is for the idle. Usually 1 1/2 turns out from a seated position is a good starting point. It makes a difference where the screw is to. Got any pics?

If you take the spring out and fully extend the fork you need to make sure the top of the dampening rod is still covered. If it is a cartridge type fork you can use a small tube & a syringe (how ever thats spelled) to set the level. Measure the tube to the correct level of oil and add enough oil to the tube so you can use the syringe to suck out the excess,using the measured mark to know how far to put the tube down into the fork. Does that make sense?

It should have at least 100 lbs. Better still upward around 150-170 lbs.

It may have a bad right side crank seal. It runs in the motor oil and if it's bad some of the oil will get under the crank and get burned. See if it smells like motor oil at all. If it is,it's not hard to fix.

It should have 100 psi or better. Make sure the reeds are in good shape.

If they are dirty that can cause flooding. Out of synch can cause the idle to "hang" and not come down. You will need a set of synchronizer sticks or dial gauges to do it properly.

The manual spec is usually lean. I've always found 3 to 3 1/2 turns out to give the best idle and throttle response. If you did not take the carbs apart and clean all the little holes & jets it never will run right though. I dont know how well you cleaned them. I prefer a mild pressure washer once the carbs are disassembled. This works excellent.

Yamaha does not have it anymore? What about a skateboard wheel?

I would make sure the crankcase is not to full of oil. Also,the silencer in the end of the pipe may be getting clogged up. You should be able to pull it out & check it. Make sure the air filter is in good condition to and that there are no obstructions in the intake.

Most carbureted bikes will require the choke when first started. On a warm day 15-30 seconds is usually enough.

If the mixture screw is on the engine side of the slide it will adjust the fuel. If it is on the airbox side it controls air. I think your is on the engine side. 3 turns out from a lightly seated position is a good starting point.

It should have a preload collar at the bottom of the shock you can turn to stiffen it up some.

I have not read everything posted on this but have you checked compression? Will it start if you use starting fluid or something like that.

The finger-over-the-hole trick is not the best way to check compression but yes,it should give a healthy PFFFFFFFFFT! Thats a very easy bike to take apart & work on. You should find a compression tester and try it that way. Also,be sure to hold the throttle wide open while checking it. Under 100 lbs and it's top-end time.

Most 2 strokes are happy with 32-40:1 and its a safe mixture.

Normally the silver edged ring is a top ring. One may be thinner than the other. If so,hold the piston up to light and see if the grooves are the same width. Put the ring in the correct groove that way. Markings are near the ring gap and as mentioned,face upward.

It has mag wheels. There is no way thats a 1959 model.

Let me know if the info in that link does not help.

I had a GSX-R600 at work the other day doing the same thing. It was the opinion of 2 of us that it was a lower rod bearing on the way out. A compression check would be a good idea to.

If the carb is empty you will be able to hear the float shake up/down. Sounds like the needle/seat are worn or dirty.

Perhaps there is something rubbing under the tank? We have a coil tester at work so a bike shop close to you should be able to check them. They also have a primary resistance and a secondary resistance. This is measured in ohms and you will need to find out the specs from a dealer unless someone here knows. Main coils seldom fail. Maybe you have a fouled spark plug?