neversaydie
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Posts posted by neversaydie
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Hi guys,
Thanks for all of the replies. It seems that it was the fault of block chaining the gears and not letting each gear engage when shifting down! It still happens when the engine is cold but this is not much of a problem. There are a lot of very steep hills by me so the use of 1st is a must. The oil and clutch settings are on par with the what the manual recomends.
The other problem I have now is that when I come to park the bike it very rarely goes into neutrual without a fight. I often use the side stand to cut the engine out (clutch in) but not all that comfortable doing this all of the time.
Regards
I have now narrowed down your area to somwhere in Tibet! On your way up do you pass anyone with crampons and ropes? Seriously though, I just can't get my head round that first gear is required to ride up hill. Where did you get the bike from, does it have a service history, how many miles are on the clock? When you open the throttle to accelerate away away, does the revs increase very quickly and then slow down as road speed increases?
Engaging neautral can be awkward. Try coasting to a stop in 2nd, and then gently increasing the foot pressure to nick it into neutral. Too much will tkae it straight through into 1st. Also bear in mind that the neutral light may not alweays come on, even if its in neutral. Try not to be too heavy on the pedal changing gear, you will improve with time, and try to avoid block changing by anticipating further ahead and selecting the right gear in advance, makes riding smoother and avoids going down through the gearbox while stationary.
Ride safely.
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Hi all,
Just got myself a Dragstar XVS 125. Got my CBT about two weeks ago and have been very pleased with the experiance so far!
I have been encountering a problem in certain situations which has caused me to pull over to the side multiple of times. The problem is when I am cruising at a decent speed on a flat road and need to drop down to make it up a steep incline; I do not come to a complete stop but am instead rolling along at a crawling speed - I try to drop into first but it just refuses (even with a heavy foot!) when it then comes to riding up the approaching incline it just doesnt have enough power and often comes to a complete stall. It also happens at roundabouts on various occassions.
I try to let the clutch out, throttle slightly then attempt to re-engage in first but it rarely results in any success. Does any body know of a reason why this occurs? It could be a fault in my technique due to my very short amount of riding time or is it more likely to be a mechanical problem?
Thanks for any input. I hope to become an active user around this board!
Regards,
Not sure that I understand why you need to drop down to 1st to go up a hill. There are 2 techniques for changing down, block changing ie clutch in and changing down several gears before clutch releasing (dont forget to match revs with road speed), and letting out the clutch after every single step down and using engine braking. I struggled at first to engage neutral from either 1st or second. It might just be that the bike is already in 1st, so that even a heavy foot cant find a lowwer gear than that. I'd be inclined to check to engine oil and the clutch setup. Do you have the manual with the bike?
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Hi, I've got a Yammy XVS 250 Dragstar (04), I was searching the net for a luggage rack so I could carry my 2 mtr chain around with me which weights 9.78 kilos but to my surprise ALL the racks stated 5 kilo max weight, so after all that searching I've decided it was a waste of time so now I'm thinking along the lines of saddle bags, I don't want to get trapped into bying the bars then find I have to buy there sadlle bags as others wont fit then be charged a fortune, how does it work?
Please don't suggest (as other have) carrying it around my shoulders as at that weight after a while it'll get too heavy & the ride won't be comfy & I consider it too dangerous if you come off.
What stops the saddle bags from swinging out as you turn? Do you have to buy the bars?
Do the bars stop the bags from hitting the wheel & swinging out?
All racks state max load 5 kilos!!! Is this realy true or are they just covering themselves?
Whats the best opion? The rack is £69.50, I guess the frame & saddle bags will be a lot more but if it's worth it I will get them.
Thanks
Like you, I bought a (very heavy) chain because thats what the insurance recommendations were. Its far too heavy to cart around in the real world though, so I bought a rubber covered steel wire braid 30mm diameter type, much lighter and easily carryable in saddle bags. The saddle bags are more flexible to use, although more expensive. You need the brackets (bars) as the bags have a sleeve on the inner face which slides over the bars and prevents them from both swinging out and hitting the wheel. The saddle bags will also require a carrier that rests over the top of the mudguard, both bags will then mount on the carrier. I also recommend that if you go the saddle bag route, have the security bars that fit through the mounting eyes, but buy your own (quality)locks to secure them. Price of bags varies steeply, I got my pair for less than £150, complete lot for around £200 - £210 as I recall. Shop around on the net for a good deal. Bags with sloping sides leave clearance around the rear suspension. Search for Held Rancher, and you'll see what I mean.
Good luck.
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Hey Guys, right, Let me give you the low down.
Recently i had my yammy ybr 125 nicked from my girlfriends, insurance have agreed to pay out, and i've really taken a fancy to a dragstar I've seen. And here's the story of the bike:
51 plate, black, 14,000 miles on the clock, small 'dink' (i mean very small dent in tank, half the size of the nail on your thumb) small amount of rust/corrosion on rims and metal plate under headlight. Otherwise cosmetically fine. the major issue with it is this: the last guy who owned it rented out a workshop on a buisness park, couldnt pay the rent on the unit and fled leaving alot of belongings behind, the lil dragtar being one. since then the landlord has registered the bike in his name and has the logbook back from dvla, and wants to sell it. the main prob is tht he has no keys for the bike! so if i'd want to buy it (He wants £800) i'd have to get tht prob resolved. Emailed yamaha, and they have confirmed the dealership bought from, so i've emailed them with the frame no and reg asking if there is any chance tht they have details on file of key numbers so i can get them cut. Otherwise is it quite hard to get a whle new lock set supplied and fitted? anyone have any idea on price? obviously though, i cant "try" before i buy as such, although ofcourse should i resolve the key problem i'd arrange a good service for it. £800, worth the risk? deff fallen in love with this model! landlord deals in cars, and not interested in bike. he said if it comes to him sorting out locks/mots etc on the lil bike he'll be looking for 1500ish but doesnt have the time for mucking about with it...i know him personally so i know he's not trying to have me over, but im not sure tht getting a lock set supplied n fitted is gunna be cheap!
£800 for a 51 plate sounds like a good deal, if it weren't for the unknowns, and leaves some room for any repairs etc before it becomes a bad deal. You could explore a second hand lock set/key from a scrapper or get someone savvy to hotwire it to make sure it runs. If its not moved for a while, brakes could be seized so take care. I'd think I'd just be cautious about the ownership question too.
Best of luck
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Just bought my first bike, XVS Dragstar 125...
Can anyone give me some usefull bits to know about it?
Good luck with the CBT.
Remember to reset the odometer to zero when you tank up, then as a guide tank up again at around 120 miles. I'd also recommend a trip to your local library and borrow a copy of the Police Motorcycle Riders Manual. Don't expect to overtake much other thna the locla milk float and disabled buggys. Seriously though, its a nice good looking, reliable bike and theres lots of stuff available to glam it up more.
Enjoy.
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Each silencer has two holes, yes?
If so, leave them. They're supposed to be there!!
They help condensation drain out
If you mean other holes that have rusted through or something, yes, weld 'em up and all will be fine.
On closer examination, there are 3 holes in the top one, 2 off which are already welded up (these look like a pair in line. On the bottom, there are 4 holes, 2 are welded up (again these look like a pair). Whoever welded them up made a terrific job as they have been plated. Open holes are clearly manufactured, not rusted through. Many thanks for your help.
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Both silencers have pin holes along the bottom. If I can get the holes welded over/tacked up, would this be acceptable for MOT test? I expect that the plating will peel off around the weld, but as the holes are on the bottom, I wouldn't be too worried about that. Any guidance greatly appreciated, thanks.
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Had some rubber on mine, soaked a piece of cloth in CILLIT BANG, hung it on the area for 30 minutes, then just wiped it off. According to New Scientist magazine, it is now used for cleaning the fuel rods at Dungeness nuclear power station!
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where is the best place to get saddle bags for my bike
also need the brackets
Plenty available on the web. Shop around. I bought a pair of HELD RANCHER saddlebags because of the angled rear suspension, the HELD UNIVERSAL BACKPLATE, 2 security pins, and a pair of saddle bag spacers. Expect to pay around £250. Buy your own padlocks as the kit ones are crap. Try and get it all from one supplier, that allows you to haggle and only pay one delivery charge.
Happy hunting.
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I have heard there 2 restriction rings on the exhaust just before the header pipes. (Can anyone confirm or deny this?)
I would like to remove them but I've got a little problem.
As you can see the nuts on the studs are rusted into one big mess. Feckin things.
All I can think of is cutting them off, drilling out the old studs and putting another bolt on after.
Please tell me there is an easier way as its going to be a real pain.
Tar.
I had the same problem on my 125 Dragstar. Soaked them all with release oil every day for 2 weeks, then over the next few days worked on one bolt at a time. Managed to get them all out 1 by 1 and replaced with stainless steel and copperslip to prevent future corrosion. I had to drill out the hex cap screws though as the sockets were fecked. Start off with a centre drill as it will be guided by the socket and shouldn't wander as you drill down, slow speed, lots of pressure, cutting lubricant. Once the cap is off, you might then be able to get a small pair of grips on the remaining stud, or carry on drilling carefully with a 5mm drill. Once deep enough, tap the hole clean with a 6mm tap. Plenty of patience needed for this task. Good luck if you tackle it
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Hi ezcleen,
Nice inheritance, it beats a pile of old dusty books and the family cat!
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hi
i drive a yamaha xvs125, does anyone know if the footbrake can be adjusted or extended in any way as it is pretty much impossible to drive with my foot resting near the brake. my only concern here is when i have to emergency stop i find myself using the front brake more than i would like
also i find it maxxes out at 60mph in 4th then drops to 55mph in 5th is this normal? dont get me wrong,if i wanted to go faster i would get a faster bike but i just want to make sure my bike is driving the best it should be
The foot brake adjustment instructions are in the owners manaul, but I suspect that you mean you want the brake pedal to be further away from the footrest. Is that the case? If it is, then I reckon measuring how much you want to move it by, taking the pedal off and getting a decent welder to splice in an intermediate section may do the trick. Trouble is, the further you move the pedal away from its pivot point, the further the pedal has to travel before braking is applied, and bear in mind the increased leverage due to the bracket being longer I don't think there's enough room to to move the mounting bracket forward by drilling a fresh fixing hole in it.
You must have big feet
Joining the top speed debate, I had my XVS125 easily at 65 with room to spare but bottled as it was pulling my arms out of the sockets. I don't know why anyone would wish to thrash a smashin liitle bike that'll cruise forever at 50-55 with style
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Hi, I have a 125 dragstar and was wondering if you know how to take the petrol tank off as I cant find a service manual?
I recall that there is a link to the service manual somwhere in previous topics. If you cant find it I can email pages with the tank removal instructions
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Hi All,
Another newbie to your club. Bought my first bike at 57 years old, and love it, Dragstar 125. Great fun. A few issues with balance at slow speed and finding neutral but I'm getting better. I didn't realise the roads were in such poor condition until I took up two wheels. Clearly, I need to get to grips with some of the terminology (cans/slash cut etc?).
Never say die
Disk Lock
in Yamaha Customs
Posted
Hole size on mine is 7mm. If the stem bolt on the lock is 6mm then it should be fine