neversaydie
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Posts posted by neversaydie
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Look under the tank and double check to make sure you haven't trapped or pinched a fuel pipe
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1970, and fed up with push biking 4 miles to work and back every day, no car licence yet, so took a C50 of my workmate who no longer wanted it. It worked fine, just the kickstart was broken. Id put it into second, walk with it a couple of paces and it would fire up. Ha dit nearly two years, never failed, all I did was fuel it up. How I wish I still had it.
Passed my driving test in 72, cars right up to 2009
Nottingham City Council got me back onto two wheels when they brought in the tram/car park tax. Principles meant that I would not pay it, so bought a Dragstar 125 and passed my test on an ER5. Right up till I retired nearly five years ago now, always rode to work, all weathers. Just loved being out on two wheels. Joy rides, trackdays, I just cant get enough.
The Dragstar was written off when a car turned right across me, the XV750 I sold three years ago, the YX600 Radian I part exchanged for the FZ6 S2 I now own.
Currently trying to convince myself to get a dedicated trackbike as I worry about ragging the Fazer to death
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Shouldnt be lumpy, my old one was nice and smooth. If youve no service history, then Id give it a full service first off, and check the carb rubber for cracks/leaks. Get it running right first
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Thats cool
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HMMM. Ugly. Not keen at all on this type of look, looks kind of unfinished, and I wouldn't want to try and hang on with no fairing. Seems a modern trend that to make machines rideable, you have to buy the "accessories", comfort seat/suspension etc
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It may be the side stand switch itself. Mine failed on a trackday, randomly cutting out, then powering back up. Prove this by bypassing the switch. Disconnet the plug where the switch joins the loom, fit a jumper between the plug on the the loom to simulate the switch.
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Thats a lot of work. Fatter wider wheel will likely mean a different axle/spacers/chain run/ rear brake disc and caliper etc. Handlebar change is likely to need different length clutch and brake cables, and the bikes handling may be affected too.
If you're confident though, go for it
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Not missed one for years now, until this year. Had tickets World Superbikes and BSB at Donny Park too this year. Only got one trackday in because of trying to shield family members, and the bike broke down 2nd session, day over. Got one booked for this Monday though, hope the weather holds up
Stay safe all
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Yey, Bangers. Great fun. Loved Jumping Jacks too
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Double check that the clips to pinch arent round the other side. If they are, just twist the clip around till you can get bat them. If its a wire type clip, just snip it with a pair of cutters. Measure the outside diameter of the pipe before you buy a replacement clip. Careful pulling the pipe of the elbow, the pipe is pushed over a step on the elbow in order to seal. A small Jubilee Clip of the right size will do ya, dont overtighten it
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Check the part nos on the CMSNL website
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Depends if digital ones are available for that model, and how much they are
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Drain all the old fuel and put some fresh in. Clean the plug/fit new plug, make sure the battery is good and fully charged. Check the air filter is clean.
Modern fuel goes off and absorbs moisture
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Try going onto the CMSNL webite, check the part no of the stand for each bike, if its the same number its the same stand
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Sounded normal to me, perhaps a little rattley, that could the cam chain, perhaps the tensioner is between clicks
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Try working through this fault finding process
https://www.dropbox.com/s/b1x1ojthv4h7925/Troubleshooting 3P PMG %26 RR.pdf?dl=0
Or this one
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1091/5694/files/fault-finding-diagram.pdf?235929069374954073
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Not much information to go on. You dont say how long youve had the bike, when it was last serviced, when it was last used, but it sounds initially like carburetors require cleaning. You need to check plugs for sparking, exhaust downpipes for heating, if the fuel is old, change it.
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50 miles or so around the derbyshire dales this afternoon, first time since lockdown. Lot of riders out too, good to see no-one overdoing it as we are all a little ring rusty.
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There are a lot of different styles to choose from these days. Sporties, tourers, crossers etc. He could have something smaller that is even faster. Maybe try and nail down a bit more what it is he wants from the new bike
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Disconnect the pickup coil coupler from the harness
Red probe on the green/white
Black probe on the blue/yellow
Should read 192-288 ohms @ 20C
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Stuck in mostly, but like Drewpy, out running 3 or 4 times a week. Oddly, see more folk out on the footpaths around the fields than Ive ever seen in the past. Wife's high risk so have to be careful, looks like all our holiday plans are up the spout this year, and no trackdays too. Running out of jobs to do a round the house and garden. Theres always the shit picking to do down at youngest daughters stables though. Oh joy
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I've had a look on the csmnl website for your bike, and I cant see any indication of a seal or sealant for the joints. On all the bikes I've had similar parts off in the past, I've never found or used a sealant there, so I'm guessing a previous owner was just trying to be doubly sure of sealing
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If its been sitting in a shed for some years, then id guess that the carbureters require cleaning out as the fuel will have gone off in them
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Yes, the fuse may have gone again, particularly if the cause of the fuse blowing originally hasnt been repaired. If it has, you need to find the fault. Likely to be a short or bad connection somewhere. Then charge the battery and see it it holds up
Have a good Christmas all
in General
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Just checking in, still Covid free
Have as good a Christmas as you can all. Stay safe