Tylerman

I for one would like to see a picture of this bike. Otherwise, good luck. There are lots of ways to remove a stuck cylinder. Depending on where the piston is stuck in the bore, some techniques may or may not work. If it is in a position where the transfer ports are open, you will have to find a way to block them off or else anything you pour into the cylinder will drain into the case and not go to work on the rings. I have in the past had to drill the top of a piston around the wrist pin, the chisel out what was left between the holes in order to remove the cylinder with the outer edge of the piston still in place, leaving the crown of the piston still attached to the small end of the connecting rod. Time consuming, but cylinder's are harder to replace than pistons.

Wilkommen Dog, these are super-simple bikes but carbs can be tricky. If you find that gas is not getting down to teh carb as OldGit suggested, see if you can safely siphon the gas out of the tank and unscrew the petcock (fuel valve). It may have garbage packed up around it blocking fuel flow, get a can of computer keyboard cleaner (compressed air basically) and blast air up into the pipe that the fuel line connects to. Set the valve at different positions to clear all the passages inside. Think of it this way, pretend you are trying to blow air INTO the tank through that valve. If there is flow from the tank to the carb, and you have a good spark, the next step is to check compression. Rent/borrow/buy a compression tester and give it a whirl. You should have at least 115-120 psi to get it running. If you are there, then you will need to take the carb off and clean the heck out of it. It is very common for a bike that has sat a long time to need a carb cleaning. In fact, if you do not feel confident enough to take it apart, but are brave enough to pull it from the bike, no shame in taking just the carb to a bike shop. Shouldn't cost too much, and it takes about a day as the parts have to soak in solution. Good luck, post up pictures if you got 'em.

Try www.nwvintagemotorcycleparts.com If they cannot find your Yammy part, then it must be a Kawasaki.

If I may ask, where'd you get the pipe? Admittedly I haven't looked hard for one but if you have a source, I'd lvoe to know it. Porting the engine isn't the end of the world, there's a dirtbike shop not far from me that works on RDs and other two-smokers that could probably do a little something for me, but they want a fortune for a custom made chamber.

Hell now I don't know, looking at an old picture my Maxim only had one disc up front, not two. I don't know about the seca.

I had a '81 Maxim 550, if I remember rightly those are Maxim wheels, but the axle was on the front of the fork lowers rather than on the bottom. So it looks like you've got a Maxim w/ Seca forks and "custom" bodywork. That is also not the stock pipe as it does not appear to have the collector beneath the engine. And yeah, the rear of the frame looks cut to hell. If you are trying to restore it to either Seca or Maxim spec, I would try to find a better example to start with. Good luck.

That's what I told him, on my RS100 and the old stock pipes on my Kwak triples that's how to pull 'em, but he swears there is no such hole. Maybe he just isn't looking hard enough. Thanks for the reply.

Anyone here know if the baffles can be pulled from the pipes of a CS1? I do not know the year, it is a friend's bike and I am not near it to help, but he tells me that he can find no way to pull the baffles out to clean/repack them. FWIW the bike is purple/white, I want to say 70 or 71. Thanks

I have been told that the LS1 and/or LS2 use the same forks. I cannot verify this, however.

Are you talking about a pod type filter or one to go in the original airbox? I have fitted an EMGO pod filter on mine, if I remember it was a 42mm throat, but I needed to scavenge a bent intake pipe as the filter interfered with the frame. I am currently using the original airbox and some oiled filter foam for now as I am trying to find an expansion chamber and don't want to re-jet just for the filter change, and then again for the pipe.

I've heard that's true with powder because it goes on thicker, but with paint it shouldn't be a big issue. Just sand the edges of the fins off for a custom look and to expose some aluminum.

Go to Harbor Freight tools, they sell an adjustable spanner type wrench (what you are looking for). I cannot remember how much, $20 or so. Very useful.

A decal? Not on mine, it is a rounded aluminum cover with three screw holes in it, it attaches to the left engine/sprocket cover. And if I am not mistaken Dead you have the same thing. Either way, yes count yourself lucky to have it.

The cover over the magneto on the left side of the engine. It has "Yamaha" embossed in it. Mine does not have it. Most that I have seen do not have it. I realize that in order to get to the points it must be removed, but I don't know why it would end up missing and so hard to find in so many cases. Anyway, count yourself lucky.

Lucky dog, you have the magneto cover, those things are like hens teeth. I know there's one on eBay right now, but they are generally hard to find. Overall looks really nice, you shouldn't have any problems with it. Certainly in better condition than the one I have.