.jpg.5c05eb7af257e741ca000bd984024429.jpg)
drewpy
-
Posts
15,169 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
295
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Yamaha Racing News.
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Classifieds
Posts posted by drewpy
-
-
I'm sure it's been covered before, sorry. Can anyone tell me, definitively, whether my 1978 XS250P (frame cide 1U5) is OK for unleaded, or should I be using an additive?
yep mine runs fine on unleaded
-
I've already ordered a newie from Sale Yamaha but I wanted to botch it up until I get the part on friday
I wouldn't trust it to glue. can you not get it tig welded till then?
-
I broke off the black part that holds on the front brake lever
I have ordered a new one but I need to use my bike still till Friday, is there anyway of temporarily sticking it
together?
I dont think it can be welded because its made of a cast compound! Would a super strong glue hold it together?
there's a bike breakers in farnworth, can you not get one from there?
The Bikers Warehouse
Ground Floor; Grecian Mill, Worsley Rd North Farnworth, Manchester, Lancashire, M28 5QW
Tel: 01204 862832
-
Is it practical to run the engine with the tank removed? What do you do, just move it forwards a little and hold it in place with sticky tape...?
I get the workbench out, and a petrol can. Stick a length of pipe in the petrol and suck. When the fuel comes out stick it on the carb fuel inlet.
voilla!! fuel
ps everthing tastes like petrol for a day, but with the wifes cooking, that's a bonus
-
I should have mentioned that the bike has not been running for 6 years or so. And that both plugs are somewhat sooty, suggesting over-richness I believe. Since first posting, I bit the bullet and started taking things apart. The throttle barrels were both quite grimy and it's perhaps possible that one or other of the butterfly valves was simply not closing fully (when warm..!). Any suggestions on cleaning other than a "cotton bud" dipped in petrol?
Further inspection also found one of the floats had a tiny hole and was floating lower (in a jug of water) than the other. I guess that ain't gonna help neither! Could it be that the differently adjusted pilot jet screws were to compensate for the different fuel level in the two float chambers..?
And then I discovered that the petrol tap was malfunctioning, due to the four-holed rubber gasket inside the tap being all mangled up - meaning that fuel was constantly being supplied under gravity (as if permanently switched to "Prime") instead of via the vacuum diaphragm, I guess that won't help either.
I'll see if Fowlers can supply new floats and tap gasket tomorrow, then put it all back together and see if anything's changed a jot! Any suggestion on how to set the pilot jet screws?
While I'm on. Much less critically, I'm trying to re-fit the indicator units which had all been broken off! the units themselves are fine, but not the mounting. I need new collars, dampers and hollow studs. Fowlers have helped with the collars and dampers but say that the studs are discontinued. Any bright ideas? The studs are M8 x 50mm with a 3mm hole down the middle (for the wire to pass through).
Wow lots of questions and where to start;
1) pilot screws on mine are 1 turn out from fully screwed in +/- 1/4. don't over tighten or they might snap off the fine needle in the carbs
2) I got a spare 250 carb for spares if your desperate
3) I got a set of 4 indicators from Stafford for £20 and they look the biz, you can get studing from B&Q and cut to fit!
4) carbs need balancing
4) Try granby motors, Motoward and Motolink for yam spares
5) You need to thoroughly clean carbs of all gunk, in the end, i had to send mine off th JRS to be ultrasonic cleaned
6) You don't need to remove air filer to access any adjustments, they will be accessable from above (take off the tank) never run the bike without the air filters
Any more probs just let us know!
Drewpy
-
-
Always been Solvol for me!
cheers, I tried Peeks polish with no luck. I'll try solvol
-
Hey, Iv'e restored my xs400 for the summer and gave it its inaugral run yesterday.
Thing is the headers have become discoloured and i was wondering does anyone have any tips on cleaning this up? I am useing the Motad system t the mo' and they use stainless steel pipes!
I know about "Blue away" product, but is there anything else? ie cheaper
Cheers
Drewpy
-
Managed to remove the bolt with a pair of mole grips and a bit of perserverance.
Made a mess of the bolt though...
use copper grease on the threads next time
-
I now have the problem of theres oil everywhere for some reason, Any body know where the bolts are for the petrol tank and seat? i canny seem to find them. BEing a novice at bikes(at the minute) explains everything but im willing to give it a go if someone will just help.
You are best to get yourself a haynes manual for starters, that way, you will gain basic knowledge for your bike. try
http://www.yamaha-xt500.co.uk/portal.php its mainly xt but the sr has the same engine as the xt.
your seat should open by key, and them you will see the hinges. with the seat up you will be able to see a bolt or bolts to hold the rear of the tank on, then wiggle backwards off the rubber.
you can see an sr parts catalogue here. try 1980 theres's an sr250 listed there
-
Thanks Drew and Yamahead,
Your help is appreciated.
I will have a go tonight. I am trying to fix it up before i start doing some serious riding to practice before i take my advanced riders test. I still have a few months before i need to take the test, while i am on my L-Plates.
I have been riding it around like that for a few months now and the noises have only started in the last 3 weeks or so.
The spark plugs need to be changed as the outer coating is cracked and if i don't pull the leads away from the head once in a while, while out riding i loose power and the bike rolls to a stop. I beleive its the leads earthing on the head which is causing this, so that is why i need to replace them.
I can only hope that the leads are not glued into the coil.
Also, do you know why occasionally the kick start doesn't mesh on my bike. There have been occasions where i left the headlight on without realising it
and i couldn't kickstart the bike because it just wouldn't mesh. I tried leaning the bike to the side, put it in gear and moved it forward a bit then out of gear and tried again, still nothing. ANY IDEAS????I also don't trust any of the motorbike mechanics in my area in the North of South Australia. As i took my bike to the only one around to get the tyres changed and the rear wheel wasn't tracking right after that.
My Auntie (A Yamaha Freak) came for a 3hour bike ride to help me re-align the wheel and it's a bit far to keep getting her to ride up and help me with what she calls the slug.
I will probably keep this bike for a while after i am off my L's then upgrade to a larger bike that is more suited to my size. (I am 6'4" and 93kgs) so it is sort of working the poor little thing. and i make the bike look like a PW50 because of how big i am. But that is one of the biggest bikes the law states i can ride down here,
so i will keep riding it until i get off my L's.
I assume you mean spark plug leads and not spark plugs
You can always unscrew the plug caps and get some shrink tubing from electronics store (Maplin out there?) then shrink it on the leads with a heat gun.
As regards the kick-start, iv'e seen the gear mesh inside the casings sheared off before now, so it could mean an engine strip. Just bump start it, you sound like a big boy
If your really keen, take off the right casing cover a check the kickstart shaft as it enters into the gearbox, you should be able to see it to confirm condition.
as to the noises on your bike, I assume you have changed the oil and filter within the last 1000 miles?
-
Hi,
I have a Yamaha Sr125, bought it recently but it has been sat around in the back yard as i was waiting for a new petrol cap. I tried starting the bike when i got home today and there was nothing. This bike is an electric start, no kick start on it and it was working the other day. Not being a bike genius(yet) i am unsure what the problem is. Can anybody help?
Damp in the ignition, drained battery, water in the tank if cap was off!
take out the spark plugs can you smell petrol?
connect up your spark plugs and earth to cyl head, do you get a spark?
Charge up the battery
drain tank and put fresh petrol in.
-
inlet 00.8 - 0.12 mm
exhaust 0.16 - 0.20 mm
Thankyou Drew.
I will check them tonight.
Also, to change the Spark Plug Leads do i need to take the tank off.
--> also if i need to take the tank off, where are the bolts for the tank.
I found the one under the front of the seat, but i cant find anymore and the tank doesn't want to budge.
you might not be able to replace the leads, because they can be glued into the coil, depends on the model.
As for tank, one bolt at the back and "wiggle" the tank towards the back, lifting the rear of tank by couple inches. watch out as it will let go very quickly (held on with rubber "bungs" into frame) it will be easier to do the valves with the tank off.
PS don't forget to undo the vacum and petrol pipe from the tank first.
-
Can anyone tell me the Valve clearances for a 1981 xs 250.
I am new to the bike scene (L-plater) and the XS250 i bought is making a bit of noise from the valves.
Just wanting to make sure they are where they are supposed to be.
Most of the noise is coming from the Exhaust side of the head.
inlet 00.8 - 0.12 mm
exhaust 0.16 - 0.20 mm
drew
-
Hi,
I'm trying to remove a stuck bolt from my SR 125 (See my other thread..). However I figure once I remove it there's no way I'll be able to re-use it. So I've been trying to see if I can source a replacement. I've contacted a few breakers, etc. and done plenty of searching of parts websites. I've also run across a couple of sites just selling various bolts. So I'm wondering if I can just find an equivalent bolt from Pro-Bolts or someone and if I can just use that, instead of sourcing a brand new bolt or finally finding one from a breakers. How can I find out what sort of bolt I'm after? Is there a parts list I can look at online or anything? I've only got the Owners manual (Although I'm currently bidding on a Haynes manual on ebay) which is a bit light on technical specifics. I was basically wondering if I've got a fairly generic bolt and if I could just replace it fairly easily...
Thanks in advance...!
try this link http://www.starmotorcycles.com/star/parts/home.aspx
usa but you can see the parts you need.
Iv'e used standard generic and stainless bolts on my restoration. try B&Q
-
Not having a lot of luck with the bike at the moment...
I decided to give it an oil and air filter change as I noticed the oil level was too low. So I drained the oil out of the engine and started on removing the oil filter cover. Eventually got the two screws holding the top of the cover off, but I'm having problems with the third bolt. Its basically a bolt you undo (or not) with an allen key. Its only supposed to be done up to 10Nm (AKA hardly anything) but seems to have been done up a lot tighter. Basically I couldn't shift it and have ended up rounding it out. So any ideas on how I get it off? Its grooved around the outside of the bolt but I haven't had any luck using pliers on it.
Thanks in advance...
If you can get a larger nut over the bolt head, you can then weld it on inside the allen bolt (build up the weld to inside the nut). due to the different heat characteriscts of the metal, it will break any alloy corrsion. Then you can get a socket over the nut and turn. his also works on studs snapped off flush with alloy heads.
You could also get a dremel and cut a groove, then use an impact screwdriver. BTW any bolts that are tight should use heat if possible and an impact driver.
Drew
-
so it's not possible for me to just put the rings back on the pistons? i checked the bore and rings and both were spotless when they were removed i was surprised when i removed them from the bore i was expecting them to either be destroyed or broken but they look like new the bore is clean with no marks on the inside at all, again it looks very tidy. i have a price on a set of new rings £50 that seems very steep i paid that much for the bike and if i can help i dont want to pay that for a simple set of rings. i am hoping to sell this thing and make a small profit to put towards another bike.
if your selling the bike, put the old rings back in. Making sure you haven't mixed them up in the first place
-
Hi,
Can anyone help me with a slight problem I seem to have created?
I have just replaced the chain and sprockets on my XJ600, replaced the sprocket cover, re-connected the shift lever to the shift arm and found to my horror that I cannot select the gears anymore. The best I can do is find first, neutral and second. Any help would be appeciated, thanks.
not sure about the xj's, but on my bike the gear shaft runs throught the engine to the other side. this then acts on two tentioned hooks which revolve a drum (that's your gear selection)
If you have a similar setup (most probably) then you may have knocked the gear shaft slightly (usually they are fixed to stop sliding out, so the problem may have happened anyway) and somehow disengaged one of the "hooks". one hook makes the selection and the other returns it back. its worth taking off the casing to check operation.
If you have a manual, have a look there first to confirm the setup.
other than that, are your splines ok and not slipping round from the lever action?
-
I got a thunderace and just changed the clutch plates and fitted new friction plates and stronger springs, i still have a problem with the clutch slipping, unless i am mistaken and its a power band kicking in. I have changed all the clutch lines to braided, changed the master cylinder and flushed the system and replaced with new fluid and bleed the system
I also have a problem but its not there all the time it takes approx 3 months to develop, the clutch hydraulic piston on the left hand side pushes to far out and eventually it pushes the clutch plates completly out. You end up with no clutch, until you take the left hand housing off, undue the bleed nipple and push the piston back into the housing. Does anyone know where i can get a new piston and seal for the thunderace in the north-west of england?
this sounds like its the same problem on both counts.
All hydraulic master cylinders have a tiny return hole within the resevoir and if this is blocked or partially blocked, won't return the compressed fluid back into the resevior. This will lift your clutch plates away the more you use the clutch (causing slip) and then eventually pop out the clutch piston.
-
I'm doing a complete rebuild of an old xs250 (81) i got most things done and finally got hold of a complete gasket set but i can't find anywhere that sell piston rings so my question is is it possible to refit the original rings and will they be ok?
Evilbay has loads.
You are best to at least get the bores honed (45' crosshatch)and new rings, but you need to measure the bores first(i'd get your local machine shop to do that accuratley) to determine any wear.
try www.Motoward.co.uk give them a call on 01403 824222 they have computerised OEM stock and are really helpful, and suprisingly cheaper than evilbay on some items
motolink @ www.yamahaspares.uk.com
if you are looking for any 2nd hand spares i have a 250 engine partially stripped in my shed
-
Hi,I have just got a 1984 SR250 and was hoping you may help.I am after a petrol tank and right side panel,do you know any good contacts.Will any other tank fit?would appreciate your help....al
have you tried this site?
http://www.yamaha-xt500.co.uk/portal.php
they have sr's on there, not sure if they are the same tanks tho'
-
I have a 1982 Yamaha XJ 750 Maxim. I am preparing the gas tank to be painted. I would like to remove the Yamaha logos from that tank, and then smooth out whatever I find under them.
How do I do this? Can I just chisel off the logos? what will I find under them? will it be easy to sand, bondo, and smooth it out?
AtDhVaAnNkCsE
George Clay
I used a hair dryer up close and they came off luverly using a finger nail to lift then pull/tug off
if you mean badges, then still try the hair dryer method
the graphics will of course be stretched and can't be used.
use solvent to take off the remaining glue
-
I sorted it out. Turns out that the battery had lost its charge and because of this the relay was switching on and off quickly.
Have you ever tried to bump start a high compression engine its next to impossible ended up jump starting it with my mates car.Regards
Robbie
ahh you said you had no compression tho'
-
Hi guys buggered up another part of the bike now.
When I try to start the bike the Relay assembly makes a nasty electrical crackling sound (for want of better words) and there is no compression to be had from the engine.
Could anyone tell me what is likely to be the problem and how much it will be to rectify the problem.
Cheers
Robbie
what do you mean "no compression"? how do you think this is connected with the starter?
have you tried bump starting the bike?
and i couldn't kickstart the bike because it just wouldn't mesh. I tried leaning the bike to the side, put it in gear and moved it forward a bit then out of gear and tried again, still nothing. ANY IDEAS????
Xs400
in Classics
Posted
cheers guys, did any of you go to Stafford on Saturday?
I did see a blue ac-rd go by on the A34 towards manchester! anyones here?