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Posts posted by drewpy
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Hi folks! I'm new here. I've been driving a Vespa scooter 200 cc for nearly 12 years but last November I bought a brand new Kawasaki ER-5 and all I can say is..........yupi, yupi, hey!!!!
But now I've been asked to sell an old Yamaha 400 cc. It is 15/20 years old and I don't know if it is a classic bike or how much should I ask for.
http://blog.iespana.es/filterarrow/blogimage.php?i=89937
http://blog.iespana.es/filterarrow/blogimage.php?i=89938
http://blog.iespana.es/filterarrow/blogimage.php?i=89939
I'm lost. I don't know what to do. Should I sell it the way it is? or should I take to the Official Yamaha Service to be repaired?
All inputs are welcome
Thank you very much in advance
Mervin should be able to point you in the right direction, being and AC RD man!
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Platform boots are not such a joke. I spend time on a lady bikers forum and it seems lots of the girls get the boot mender to put an extra sole on their boots to give them extra height - and it works well. Another option would be Daytoma Ladies boot. They are made with and extra inch built inside the boot - a bit expensive but might be cheaper than buy a new seat.
Good luck!
just goes to show,
many a true word said in jest
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I've done it!
I am PX my 1996 600 Diversion for a brand new 600 Fazer on Saturday. Can't wait.
But does anyone know of any decent cut-down seat for one or any reputable companies who would cut down the original seat in the North West. I'm only 5ft 3 and its a little bit tall. OK to ride, but wouldn't want to drop it if I had to stop at a junction with an akward camber.
Had a test ride yesterday and I loved it.
why don't you buy 2" platform boots?............
only joking, i used www.rk-leighton.co.uk/ they fitted and supplied (by me)the seat cover, reformed some of the seat foam and repaired broken grips all for £30 inc return postage
they are based in Burmingham!!
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I trying to get my 1981 XS400 on the road and I just cleaned the tank and petcock. When I reattached it, gas leaked from where the petcock attaches to the tank. I assume that the o-ring needs to be replaced and I ordered a new one; however, I wondered if anyone uses any kind of sealant, silicone or oil on the o-ring to help with the seal.
Any and all help is appreciated.
Thanks,
BrewTrooper
i just used a new o ring.
don't over tighten the petcock screws
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Does anyone know where I can get carburettor spares for an xj550. Specifically I need the 4 diaphragms for the throttle sliders and secondly a rubber ring for the fuel tap. This ring stops the fuel flow when there is no vacuum at the intake manifold. I live in Kent Uk near Chatham. Thanks
www.nrp-carbs.co.uk/
based in victoria station, rainy city uk
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hello all,
i'm new to the forum and i have a major problem with the carb, the bike struggles to get up to 45mph,
and if i hit any head wind i have to gear it down to 3rd and it takes forever to get it to any kind of speed,
i got the carb cleaned and the shop owner told me the carb is goosed, is there anything i can do to the carb to salvage it, or has anyone got a good one or know where i could get one,
thanks
pat
was the carb cleaned by ultrasonic method, in my opinion that is the best way to get inside the drillings. try www.jrs.uk.com/
try timing the bike and check the valves
have a look at your plugs to see what colour they are(sooty black rich, very white lean) they should be a tan colour. that will indicate if the carb is working
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Some of the things I have done is test the rectifier, and it seems good. I tested the coils on the stator and they are all within the right resistance. I tested from ring to ring on the rotor (brushes out), and there is 5 ohms resistance. The only thing that I thought was odd, was the brushes were connected together. The brush with the smaller metal clip was screwed into the top left of the holder (left side of the holder) and the one with the larger clip was on the right side with it screwed into the top left, top right, and bottom right. There was no connection to the bottom left screw. With the brushes out, there is a 36 ohm resistance between the two brush wires. I posted to a mailing list about it and they said they are not supposed to be connected together. So I took them back out and connected it so the left brush (small metal clip) is connected to the bottom left screw (shorter wire, non frame ground), and the right brush is connected like it was before. I put it all back together and tried to start it and it rolled over once and then everything quit. I checked the main fuse and it's blown. (It was not blown previously)...
I have very little experiance and am trying to get as many opinions as I can. Pictures of how the brushes are supposed to screw in would be ideal.
My way of thinking is that the brushes are now correct, but the resistance between the two brush wires indicate a short somewhere... Am I on the right track? I can't get the left side cover off till tomorrow when my brother brings his grinder. Someone welded the shifter to the shift rod...
I assume that you have a separated regulator and rectifier here is a diagram that may help.
I belive the later electronic regulator/rectifiers are wired slightly different, so that is where the confusion comes in.
did you check your voltage regulator?
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hi i have a 1988 rxs100 and it uses a 6v electrics.
the other day my indicators started playing me up flashing too fast so i thought it was the relay swapped it still no better , check all bulbs and earthing connections, all seem fine do i need to rewire it or what please help me
ta peter
check bulb ratings and the idiot lamp on the dials.
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Hello
Can anyone offer a likely cause for a problem with my 1984 XS400 dohc. It starts on just the left cylinder until it's warm(ish) when the other cylinder cuts in. Only clues are that I can't check the plug as it's stuck (don't want to force it until I know where to go next) but connecting a spare plug shows it is sparking. It runs and starts perfectly when warm. Any suggestions much appreciated. Thanks CEG.
difficult one.....
maybe a valve seal leaking causing oil to run into the cylinder. after a bit the oil is passed through the exhaust and the petrol can ignite. When warm the oil hasn't got time to drain past the seal.
do you need to top up the oil level much?
Are the valve gaps correct?
you need to do a compression and spark plug check, get yourself a helicoil insert first before you take the plug out. Then your covered
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Hello, my xtz660 seems to be getting 'lumpier' to ride at low speeds (25 - 40 mph). Its fine at higher speeds ! I have no manual for the bike, so need some help !
Also, decided to fit a new plug, just in case that was a simpe cure, but cannot get any of my spanners to get under the frame. Any idesa on both items, much appreciated.
sounds like a carb problem. crud from the tanks (use an in line petrol filter) or blocked air filter or fuel tap.
Not sure, but looking at a photo of the bike, you will have to take the tank off
Hope that helps
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I recently purchased an 82 xt550 that hadn't been operated in a few years. I'm charging the battery, but I don't know if it's a 2 or 4 stroke for the oil that I need to buy. Also having a hard time finding the rear tail light assembly, but I think I may be able to find one based on some of the answers that people have given here. If anyone has any suggestions for getting this thing running, and if I can find if it's 2 or 4 stroke that would be excellent. Thanks in advance.
I think you may need quite a bit of help on this. try here
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Hi. This is my first post on here. I just bought a 1980 XS 1100 Special full dress that has been sitting the last 2 years. It was running when he parked it. The reason he parked it was because the exhaust has broken in 2 a little in front of the muffler. One side is completely seperated and the other is almost in two. I am wondering if someone out there has an exhaust they want to sell. Or if anybody has any ideas, they would be GREATly appreciated.
easy... ebay
i've even done the hard bit for you
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1979-Yamaha...sspagenameZWDVW
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I know I'm going to sound VERY STUPID in a moment, but I need to know about the RUN wire on my bike. I have attached the KILL wire to one of the coil wires, and seems logical to me that the RUN wire would go on there too. Am I right? If not - where? And what amp wiring should I be using? I am using 5amps at the moment for all the controls.
I also don't see why they can't be joined somewhere outside the handle bar control goodie....either there will be a spark or there won't.
try this
forum section, page two (as at 5.05pm 24/5/06), titled
wiring in kill switch?
hope that helps
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cheers for that jimjam ... im in need of as much advice as poss being novice ... nice 1
jimjam how easy or difficult would i find stripping a fork leg down and rebuild ... ive not alot of mechanical experience but im not to daft lol .... should i attempt it ??
you havn't been doing stoppies have you?
this really knackers the front forks up as it puts way too much strain on the fork tubes and wears them out pretty rapido!!
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Hi everyone,
I got my first bike today and really cracking one in perfect condition and only done 10k. The bike is a 1999 Yamaha SR 125 and I am going to use it to pass my test.
I rode round today and i think it may be restricted, got up to about 55mph and it doesn't really pull that well, which is why i think it is restricted, its' runs perfectly.
Does anybody know if this is restricted and can it be de-restricted and how much of a job it is ?
Cheers
Steve
far as i am aware, the sr125 is built to have 12hp, the only other way is tuning it. easier to buy a bigger bike like sr250 or sr500.
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depends how long they want the bike from you and if it is damaged, who pays for it?
Also will the engine be underwritten for damage testing a non standard exhaust (and your warranty will be void forever)
just my 2p's worth
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I need help in diagnosing what model bike my XS250 is
1981 XS250
but i don't know if it is an RK or if it is a different model.
From what i can see RK's have square headlights, my bike doesn't.
RK's have a sort of tail on the back of the seat, Cafe Racer look, my bike has that but has a round headlight.
Just need to work out as the mechanic is saying if my bike is an RK the pistons are no longer available.
Engine has died and need to rebuild it.
""I am sure you are all saying why, well South Australia has these stupid LAMS rules that don't let you ride a bike bigger then 660cc and with a power to weight ratio higher that 150kw per tonne. Now this rules out any sportbikes that fit my overlysized body without making them look like pocketbikes.""
So if anyone can give me a list of the various model codes, where to look for the numbers that tell me what it is, it would be greatly appreciated.
what's the first 3 digits on the engine number?
I must admit i've never heard of an RK suffix.
This is all i got
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Do you happen to have the part number?
Maybe a pic of the old one with dimensions
or you could try Jim Patch 01963 364411
I have seen repros for the early DS7 etc for sale somwhere
Merv
also Motolink,motoward, speed sport in america. all online
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Thanks Drewpy!!
Do you recommend it? Do you think it's worth it?
yep, its got loads more info than clymer and haynes (that's why I bought one, and got it from the states)
Is it worth it? it was for me and depends on how much your salary is!
there may be better examples out there (mine was new for instance)
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Thanks Yamahead. I really appreciate the help. Hopefully I can help someone on this forum...instead of sponging all the information.
If anyone has any computer problems, or needs advice; I've got 17 years of hands on experience I might be able to share with you.
this is the one i got
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FACTORY-SUP...1QQcmdZViewItem.
on ebay now. bit grubby but saves you trying to keep it clean
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Thanks again. I'll post again when I'm done. It will probably be about three weeks. That's unfortunate, since I'll be missing some great riding weather.
Any suggestions on where to get a service manual?
Thanks!
Ebay, I got haynes. clymer and the official yamaha (the best)
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If your putting oil down the bores and spinning it over, watch for oil spraying out. It's just put a couple of squirts in, kick it over on the kickstart and leave to seep into the piston rings in case they are gummed up.
Then i'd start trying to start it after a couple of hours.
Your igintion timing might be electronic judging by the year, so it shouldn't be an issue unless its been tampered with or the cdi has gone AWOL.
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Hi, and welcome.
The SOHC xs400(and xs250) models have their camshafts run in the alloy head. These need fresh 20/50 oil. You will need a new (Yam) oil filter to go with the oil.
Rubber perishes with age so you need new tyres and tubes
you can't use a car battery and ride it, a new battery is only £20 ($$?)
clean the air filters of spiders and dust, with compressed air
check timing
Clean out carbs
lube cables
spin up the engine with the spark plugs out to get the oil circulating first (And you can check for sparks at same time)
any probs post in the classic or workshop section
Drewpy
1975 xs500
in Classics
Posted
try speed and sport (yamaha top dog) for parts in usa, they should have most parts for the bike. Are you sticking with it or cutting your losses? you said you like a challenge
don't forget that yamaha use a parts bin for other bikes, so rd's and other xs parts may fit.