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drewpy

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Posts posted by drewpy

  1. Hello too all ...

    I got a 1979 xs750 for $100 and it need some TLC ..

    I need to wire a taillight up since the bike did not come with one ..

    The bike has three colord wires yellow, blue , black my new taillight has two red and black .

    I tryed and got it to light up but when I pull the break it does not light up brighter ..

    What is the right wiring for the taillight ??

    Any help would be great .

    If it is like my xs400 with a twin bulb rear lamp (UK spec)!

    you should have 2 x twin filament bulbs,

    Black is common ground

    Yellow is the brake light spliced into two for both bulbs

    Blue is taillamp with a double female bullet connector from the loom side.

    hope this helps

    Drewpy

  2. anyone else out there having problems with getting stuff they've ordered from hotbikebits.co.uk - they haven't delivered an order after 3 weeks despite the confirmation mail saying it will be with me in 3 days, the phone numbers they have on their website don't work and they don't reply to emails (even the 'contact us' link on the website gets no reply!). Scanning around the web, people have been having problems and reported them to trading standards as far back as mid December and yet you can still order (even now!) from their website and it will process your card payment!!!!!!). Be warned

    Noticed they have a link to MCN. I would contact them (MCN) as they won't want to be associated with a company like that, so they should be motivated to help you!!

    drewpy

  3. If you are going to paint them make sure that you rough the chrome up so that your primer will "cut" into it giving it a good foothold and hopefully making sure it doesn't come off. If you want to re-chrome it you will have to strip all of the old chrome of using grit blasting as most chromer's wont even attempt it.

    Regards

    Cheers robbie

  4. I have a 1979 yamaha xs 400f that starts fine but while idling it shoots oil out the breater tube. also when i check the oil level it says that it is full, but when I open the drain plug very little oil comes out. any help will be appreciated.

    could be crankcase pressure building up due to worn bores. how does the oil come out of the breather tube, is it disconnected from the induction?

    BTW did you post this on another forum a while ago, as this sounds familliar?

  5. Hi Guy's and Gals,

    I have stripped my rear shocks down and took the chromy bits to be re-chromed, but alas they won't touch my dampers (ooo missus!). :D

    The chrome has rubbed off in places and has anyone got an opinion as to the best way to either remove the chrome without destroying the seals inside or the safer way, to paint over it.

    I am mindful of the fact that paint does come off easily on chrome items (looking at rat bikes)

    I have german market shocks so they are all chrome whereas the brit yams have black satin finish on just the dampers.

    cheers in advance

    Drewpy

  6. I was hoping to do it myself as its only a little bit of plastic. You might be able to help upon closer inspection i found a phone number which is now not working:( But it seems that the mysterious Bike Paint where based in cheshire possibly warrington. Any ideas???

    It's not RS bike paint is it? that's in Barnsley though and they only sell paint.

    The guy who did mine was Joe Henderson from Bike koat in Eccles, Manchester.

    http://bike-koat.com/contactus.html

  7. Hi,

    I am trying to find a company called bike paint. I have found Bike-Paint.co.uk but after a quick phone call it would appear these aren't the droids i am looking for. Story is i have just got hold of a single seat cover but it is the wrong colour. My bike has a custom paint job Cadbury boost colours done by the previous owner. One of the Stickers on the bike says Bike paint and i assume these are the guys who did the paint job i want to get hold of them so i can match the colour for my seat cover.

    Any help email or phone numbers would be greatfully recieved as it would be a shame to fook it up by getting the wrong one.

    Cheers

    Any paint factors can get your colour match as they scan it in the computer. costs £20 though, but if you get it done with a paint job it might be free!!. (did with me anyway)

    drewpy

  8. Please help i've recently brought a dt 125, and after having a look over it i decided to have the barrel rebored .

    after refitting the new piston in the rebored barrel and starting it up. it ran nice on tickover untill abit of throttle was used and then pop. removed the head/barrel and i now have a smashed piston , so purchased a new piston checked the port edges for smoothness replaced everything again started it up. again tickover fine a few revs and then pop . any ideas guys

    regards liam :crying:

    I assume that the rings were fitted correctly ie right way round and either side of the locating pegs. Did you have the ports opened?

    I am thinking the rings expanded into the ports causing the mayhem!!

  9. thanx for the info.... the problem is i dont know what an original one looks like so i have nothing to copy from(no dimentions) ? are you a member of the a.c.rd forum ?

    No! as i have a 4 stroke xs400. the strips are similar to the xs though. I have added a few pics of what i did, and i could scan the ends for you if you like an PM you?

    have you tried PGM yamaha?

    this is the back of the strip although I have flattened them a bit more later

    100_0848.jpg

    these are a comparison with an original

    100_0843.jpg

    got the screws from here. Just ground down the head flat to the washer and use as template to judge the gap of the strip

    http://www.a2a4.co.uk/acatalog/FLANGE_BUTT...SCREWS_A_2.html

  10. hello all.....

    does any one have or know of someone that has an original seat trim including pins and clips (only fitted to rd250c and 400c) 1976 ish ? ? :D:D:D

    I made my own using B&Q alloy channel. Bashed over and dremeled open the slit so could slide in ground down stainless flange button socket screws.

    They look the business and cost £4 each side and the alloy doesn't rot and its easy to shape the ends to the correct profile!!

  11. :PB) well finally getting ma test after xmas what to go for

    depends on what you want to do?

    commuting

    scratching

    weekend hobby

    cruising

    classic scene (my preference)

    touring

    vintage

    off road

    you need to think about it and then narrow your search using the bike mags as a starter then come back and tell us!!

    HAPPY CRIMBO

  12. i have unbolted the top mounting but the with the bottom mounting i have removed the split pin and tryed taping out the pin to remove the suspension but it will not move even when i have used wd40 on it can anyone give my any advice please

    has the pin got a hex head. could try turning it to loosen up a bit. the only way i've been able to remove stubborn things like that are heat (watch for rubber melting) using a blow torch/small butane torch/heat gun/steaming hot water!! the idea is the metal expands around the pin making it easier to remove.

    hope that helps

  13. Hi All,

    I've got a 1999 YZF600R and I can't get hold of any touch up paint for love or money. My local Yamaha dealer claims it's been discontinued.

    Please can you let me know where I get hold of some touch up paint in the UK?

    Cheers

    Mark

    try RS paints

  14. I have nearly completed the restoration of my 1970 BSA and need to replace just one more part, the turn indicator switch. The bike did not come with turn signals and I retrofitted a set of Yamahas and replaced the Lucas horn/dip switch with a Yamaha horn/dip/turn indicator switch. This was about 1975 or earlier. Since I was working with a parts guy I have no idea what model or year bike the switch came from and without it I cannot get a part number. The switch is marked "Yamaha, YHA 203" on the underside.

    If anyone has a vintage bike with that switch I would greatly appreciate the model and year.

    Thanks.

    can't find your number, but i have found every yam code via an aussie vjmc website

    http://auction.netbikes.com.au/vjmw.php?pa...cjre8qe65grhog9

  15. on my 2000 YZF R6 as i ride with dipped headlights on but main beam seleted off, the blue main beam warning light comes on. it is only dim, not how it lights up when main beam seleted but still noticeable. it varies in brightness but has no responce to throttle postion. when seleting main on and off all works ok. i have been told it is possibly water ingress into my clock but dont want to start removing clock or anything yet as still new to motorbikes and dont want to start something i may not be able to finish. please please help.......

    VMT

    sounds like a dodgy earth, I've seen cars with thestop light coming on with the indicators, this is the light earthing through the stop light. just my 2 p's worth

  16. Just started restoring a 1974 Yamaha 250 DR. It belong to my father-in-law and hasn't ran in 10 years :( . I finally talked him into bring it to my barn to clean it up and get it running again. the bikes a mess!...a little rust poking through some of the rims and a LOT of cleaning and polishing up to do, replace all hoses etc.

    This is my first restore job. Iv'e started at the front and will work my way back. I was polishing the aluminium lower forks and realized that there is some sort of coating that I've polished off :blink: . Needed to do it though because of the corrosion. What can i seal it with when I'm done though?

    Just wanted to see if there are any other 250 DR owners out there or someone I can touch base with from time to time as I work through the bike.

    most ally was laquered, and the concensus was to leave bare and polish, as the laquer yellows with age. post a pic of the bike because i can't seem to google a yam dr 250 only a suzy!!

  17. I recently purchased an old '82 XJ 550 to tool around with after having to sell my previous bike a while back.

    It runs and starts fine, but I seem to be having some electrical problems. The Brakelight is permanently on, even w/o the brake depressed. The headlight worked fine when I picked it up, but it sat in the garage for two weeks because I had no time to work on it, and when I started it back up, there was no headlight. Charged the battery just in case, but still no power going the the front end of the bike. (headlights, turn signals, and all the indicators are blank) checked the bulbs and they were all ok. Im not much of an electrician and getting a crash course but the repair manual hasnt been very helpful. Any ideas?

    Erik

    erm...tried the fuses? they could also be "furred up" so preventing power from reaching the front. If you have a multi tester go through each connector for power.

    Check all earthing points

  18. I know I am a newbie here, but I was hoping you all could help me with a problem I am having with my 85 BW200. The bike is great except for one minor problem with it not staying running. It will start and run, for a good 5-10 minutes, and then it will just shut off. I will then have to choke it again, and it will start and run again for another 5-10 minutes and then die.

    I recently just replaced all the cover gaskets, and cleaned out the carb, as there was some foam from the air filter, that got sucked into the carb. And it did not change anything.

    I am not sure what else is could be, any ideas. Please help me. Thank you in advance for all your help.

    check your petrol (gas) flow from the tap and then your float height in the carb

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