Spraguepsycho1

I usually try to get around behind a moving vehicle instead of in front of them if I don't have enough time to stop. Seems like it gives me a little more room since I'm heading to where they were, instead of where they intend to go.

Same bike, YZFR-6 is just the full model name for the R-6.

True, I was just suggesting something sport touring from Yamaha's lineup, with this being "Yamaha Owners" site and his current bike being a Fazer and his mentioning the FZ1 all lol. My dad called me one day last June, and asked me to find him a good midsize cruiser. He's currently living in Los Angels (only place he could find a decent paying job), but has a house right across the street from me in Oregon (where we don't have to pay sales tax). His last bike was a 1200cc Venture Royale that he sold about 20 years ago, so he knew how to ride already, but knew nothing about the newer bikes since he'd been away from the bike scene for so long. He also told me he didn't care which brand it was, as long as it was from the big 4, cost no more than $7k, and fit his riding needs. I did some reasearch online, reading everything I could find as far as road tests, specs and reviews on all of the midsize cruisers from the big 4. His main concern was that he rides around 120 miles/day back round trip to work, so he needed good economy. Options available were the Kawasaki 900 Vulcan, the Honda 750, the Yamaha 650, and the Suzuki C50(800). He didn't need the largest fastest bike available, but since he rides in Los Angeles traffic, he still needed enough power for the bike to be able to get out of it's own way at cruising speeds. He also rides 2 up with a carpooling friend from work on the back, so total weight between rider and passenger is probably close to 425-450lbs. I also wanted it to be fuel injected since he travels back and forth from around 150' elevation all the way up to 6000'+ elevation, whenever he makes the 1600 mile round trip back to Oregon to visit my mom, making carbs a potential hassle. "IF" sticking to a high performance Yamaha wasn't a serious priority, a cruiser would be a lot more comfortable on cross country trips. The Suzuki C50T is an 800cc fuel injected twin (smallest twin from any of the big 4 that is injected in the US) that gets right around 55mpg-60mpg if ridden reasonably. It's the only midsize cruiser from the big 4 that has shaft drive (everyone else uses belt drive), and comes with saddle bags, running boards, and a large windshield that does a good job of blocking the wind on long rides. They handle very good for a cruiser, and feel much lighter than the specs would indicate, due to the weight being carried so low in the frame. The extra cost for the C50T over the regular C50 model is about $500 less than it would cost to buy the base model then add all the extra touring accessories to it. I've read magazine tests on it that say the midsize cruisers actually make better long distance bikes than their larger counterparts, because they are lighter, get better mileage, and are easier to handle. About the only thing you would probably want to add to the C50T would be possibly larger bags (or a large trunk), and a Corbin or similar aftermarket seat. The stock seats look good, but are pretty stiff when new, not sure how they feel once they get broken in, as I haven't ridden my dad's since he's had a chance to get some miles on it, I only rode it home from the dealership for him since he was out of town when my mother paid for it. I believe we ended up paying right at $6500 USD for his brand new with 0 miles ( I had to wait for them to fill and charge the battery before I could ride it home), and a free full face helmet thrown in to seal the deal. If you could find one used, it would possibly be in your 5k price range.

As long as it is just the YZFR6 and not the YZFR6S it's the same bike everyone commonly calls the R6. YZFR6 is just the full official model designation/name.

good luck

I think he was refering to the pic of the bike in the OP. Ok I was pretty close on the location then, had the general area right at least, I knew it had to be near Redmond to get that angle on Sisters, and the junipers instead of pines meant it had to be east of the Cascades lol.

For the type of riding you're talking about I think an FJR1300 would be a perfect bike. Not sure how long they've been out (since I wasn't paying attention to Yamaha for a while), so not sure if there's any available in your price range used or not.

I'm too old to get along with a fast track type bike, since my old back can't take the abuse anymore. I also found that now that I'm getting older, I tend to just lay on the ground when I fall, a lot longer before I slowly get back to my feet, instead of just bouncing right up like I used to lol. I'd rather have the '09 V-Max if I could only have 1 bike. Tons of power, quick enough to run respectable times if I want to race the 1/4 mile, still fast enough that I wouldn't be hitting the limiter constantly where I ride most often, and more comfortable if I wanted to do some 2 up touring with the wife on the back. An older V-Max will most likely find it's way into my garage sometime next year, since I can't afford $17k-$18k for a bike right now.

You're still pulling more air into the engine through the pods than you would with a stock air filter system on it. If you added a ful exhaust it would be even more noticable. It might not be lean enough to damage anything, but would explain needing to use the choke more now. I would guess that to run the pods, you'd probably have to go a little bigger like maybe 2 sizes up on the main jets, but you may be close enough with the stock jets to just raise the needles 1 or 2 notches by moving the clip, and adjust the mixture screw a little for idle and low rpm. The mixture screws all depend on where they are on the carbs, as in are they in the front half of the carb closest to the engine, or the rear half closer to the air filter. Closer to the engine and they are fuel screws so turning them out will increase fuel, if it's closer to the air inlet they would be idle air screws so turning them out would lean the mixture further. On my Katana the screws were right on the bottom just in front of the bowls underneath small round caps, those were fuel screws. Most 4 strokes use fuel screws, air screws are more common on 2 strokes. Would it be possible for you to post a pic of the carbs so I could see where the mixture screw is?

That looks like it was taken about 3 hours due north of me. I'm guessing somewhere between Redmond and Prineville?

Great looking bike, man we need those over here. I'd love to have one for the wife or my son to learn to ride on, to use to teach my non street riding friends, or even to just ride around myself close to home to save gas and use as a track bike. Since the Ninja and Hyosung 250's are the only decent looking small sportbikes over here, they are way overpriced. Yamahead, Could you imagine riding one of those somewhere like the Tiller Highway here in the northwest? I think they'd be great in the tighter canyons in the US where you don't have enough room to use a lot of speed.

Thank you for that explanation.

Definetly sounds like a lean problem, possibly a vaccum leak between the carbs and the heads, or most likely the combination of the extra airflow from the pod filters and stock jets. I know some bikes like the Suzuki Katana's refuse to run right with the extra air gained from using a K&N filter inside the stock airbox, no matter how hard you try to jet the carbs. IF you still have the stock airbox setup, you might want to give tha ta try and see if it clears up the problem, otherwise you may be able to turn out the idle fuel mixture screw a bit and see if that helps the hanging idle and starting problem. My Katana has a V&H full exhaust, along with tons of other mods done to it, and had a slight hang at idle, along with major popping on deceleration. I adjusted the mixture screws out from the stock 1 1/2 - 1 3/4 out from lightly seated to 2 3/4 turns out, and it made a major improvement. Not familiar with your carbs, but the mixture screws may be hidden under some small caps on the underside of the carbs, right next to where the carbs go into the intake boots closest to he cylinder heads. I had to carefully drill out the caps on mine to access the screws.

Sounds like the chances of him paying you are very unlikely, I would give it about 6 months for him to forget about his actions, then do something to his car or whatever he uses for transportation that would cost him at least twice what the tire incident cost you. I had a woman make a left turn into my car when I was 16. I had just finished doing all the body work getting it ready for a new paint job, and at first she tried to run away. I caught her and got her to stop, then instead of giving me her insurance information, she started crying about how her and her husband had just bought the car, and would rather pay me for the damages instead of turning it into the insurance companies. I got 3 estimates, and they sent me a check for the damages, then the check bounced. Took them to small claims court and won, and on the way out of the courtroom, her husband told me I would never see a dime of the money (small claims are very hard to collect on in some parts of the US).I tried to get him to pay for a couple months, then just left them alone. One night about 6 months later, a mysterious group of people dressed in black with ski masks happened into their driveway at 3am, flipped the Triumph roadster onto it's roof, spun it 180 degrees, then pushed it into the middle of the street and dissapeared. They may not have paid me, but they still paid.

Some of the terms you guys use over there in the UK are different than those used in the US lol. What is this "Lifesaver" you all keep referencing, is it just turning your head to make sure nobody's in your mirrors blind spots?