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Not a problem...

Apologies and thank you. I’ve seen the Psych ones on eBay as well. These are twin port as apposed to the single port that we have, and they seem to make it clear that it won’t fit ours Also the studs for the reed is quite a lot larger than what we have. In an ideal world we’re trying to keep it as true to period as we can, so I guess I’m hunting for a needle in a haystack and hoping that someone out there as one from this period. It’s actually my son’s bike, he’s 20 and loves it, albeit a little down hearted at the moment. On the plus side neither of us knew a thing about how it works until a week ago and we’re learning as we go. Frustrating and rewarding at the same time. Thanks for reading and taking an interest, it’s much appreciated. apologies and thank u.

Moved...

Hi there Boxoffrogs, you've unfortunately posted in the wrong section, this is the area for 1st posts to introduce yourself, this needs to be in the Workshop section. As you're a paid up member you can be forgiven, hopefully a mod can move this into the right section. As regards to your DT cylinder , is this a Psychic one? which i think means you need their 70mm race carb to go with it as it's not compatible with the OEM carb. see ebay photo in their listing..https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303728870851?itmmeta=01HYG5QDDRHVF8964F7Y944430&hash=item46b7a6c5c3:g:jacAAOSwVI5haWBL&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwDaUsbdex5Z%2FN%2F%2BeVDKSxvLRGMTuGxYA58GZnk0VNgNrMmiz1O4x%2Fe%2Bo2peb%2B%2B13MeGLpf9Xy%2B%2FIQB8%2BnvKl688piZg5w3vDIhIguWQq7J91Gz7xt3pHMo%2FYppxpNzxSglAmHzHLGvT2%2BkRYZENreX3qzShHmEOoQX9AuUP6qf6eV%2FcCGzyq99Inak%2FkOMHHAdJWPvmVM3iCYU2F%2B6MKXHB3UWdfU0eCAOcoqUbdH5Tl6WLsmKl05zgii4PQlfIbcw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4rX3YX0Yw

Ahh can see now, you're referring to this bit? yes?. ..and you have already worked out the cause and remedy. It's very common for parts like this to have a bronze sleave lining/bush inside and it's that part that has probably worn away causing the boss to move about on the pivot. You can fabricate a new sleeve providing you can find a similar material, I know this because taking bikes apart you come across various bodges that previous owners have tried to varying degrees of success. So the part you would need is the arm itself as the lining bush will be part of it. That's why it doesn't show up on the parts diagram. and if there wasn't a bush then the boss is just machined metal with a close tolerance when new which has simply gone oval over the years. The two options being: to either ream it out so the hole is equal all around (remove the oval) and fit a metal sleave/bushing of uniform thickness. or cut a sliver of metal and try wrapping it around the shaft, i.e bodge it. You can get thin tin brass, metal sheets in modelling shops, that you can try fabricating one from, try ebay. something like this... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145190789050?itmmeta=01HYFM8YJR8XNME4P2JJBPXDRV&hash=item21ce0b9fba:g:JnIAAOSw16hkrgAq&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwF1kt81QocyvSrSnVPobJjdkDG7uW3KM%2F4gs%2FS1p4jjAj773U51RvIl9E4q0Rw4kGb8CdrvFVuG2%2FIGtIq0MdhmdaJYIWBpQCPXcxmxvMWGO3HGbZvFP9Rq9lWvRBbJQVwjuIjL40DoIrxvZV%2Bvx%2F7Pnkj3%2FPY4I6ds4ddUWxo1C%2Btfey1YsMC0heHBRbVDaxF40Nc0uVgQYosEBcGAwmCOs3C9hUdY4KPJnbPRi%2BWWPgn4Mfk01R6oMM%2FrFXk0%2FEQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8Tpo_TzYw

Looking for a little help as I’m totally stumped. DT MX 175. Top end rebuild. A modern replacement has an inlet port stud spacing of 71mm x 51mm. The part info says it will fit a 1981 - w reg. The actual one on the bike that needs a rebuild is about 57mm x 47mm The engine number code is 2k4 denoting 1979-1982 so the part should fit but it won’t. The new has a twin inlet and the original has a single inlet. 1st pick is the new part, others are the old.

Congrats!

Hahahaaaaa. A hannnnndbaaaaag? A phone strap actually. Lol. Here it is "in place"... I measured the inner circumference and the hole appears slightly oval and is probably worn... I'm attempting to make a shim that will sit inside to take up the excess play... or... I'll live with a wobbly lever. https://postimg.cc/Hc2grG5x

That is good news, Glad you got it sorted, I did say it's going to be something simple, sounds like different tolerances on the two sprockets causing the issue with chain. Thinking about it, I have a vague memory of something similar on one of my bikes in the long distance past that required a swap out of poorly machined parts, I don't recall the noise you describe but the solution was replace with a different sprocket to cure the problem. and well done for coming back with the end result. All too often there are multiple posts that remain unfinished with no conclusion or report back. I've given you another like on your last post there to help put you on the leaderboard.

OK So pulled the back wheel checked and cleaned everything tensioned chain and tried again….No good! Did 5 days in France which was lovely but buzz noise persisted. On return I decided for the sake of 15 quid to replace the front sprocket….Ideally you replace both sprockets and chain at same time but as only done 4/5 k miles on these happy to make an exception and also just to see if things improved. When I compared the new to the old the old had indentations from the chain in the rubber damper. Maybe the chain was too tight or maybe it was a duff one. Good news on the test ride as now the buzzing is no more! I had fitted DID chain with JT sprockets this time but in future will pay the extra for the Yam parts. Happy riding

At that price then, I don't see a reason not to give it a poke, if it works, great, if it doesn't, you've not lost much...

I have found a full carb rebuild kit on ebay with the diaphragms for under £26

How much are they?

Hi I have a xj600 pre diversion 1991 the diaphragms have gone crispy. I have not been able to find replacement diaphragms could I use the diaphragms for a 1992 xj600 diversion as I can get them easily, will they fit my carbs

Yes, it doesn't help that you've managed to get your handbag strap in the way either!

here's a parts diagram of the gear lever in question if that helps.... https://www.bike-parts-yam.com/yamaha-motorcycle/535-MOTO/1991/VIRAGO/XV535-VIRAGO/GEAR-SHIFT-SHAFT--LEVER/69_6861-6861/B18/0/14251 Your close up photo, is a bit too close up and could do with a wider shot to get a reference point. Obviously its your bike so you're familiar with it, but not us

Hi All. I can't find any reference to this issue but my xv has got a very wobbly gear lever.. not at the gear shaft but the pivot. It looks like some kind of bushing or a flat rubber o ring is missing but I cannot find any part number or even a diagram that might assist me... https://postimg.cc/jLx08YjX

When you say Alternative to electric driven fuel tap, is that what it is? I thought the solenoid was part of the fuel shut off system. The fuel pump which is electric driven is elsewhere. i may be wrong, but i think the fuel tap doesn't include the pump, they are separate. (its just the terminology you're using may be throwing me, a solenoid being just a type of switch, whereas driven implies a motor) Removing the existing shut off valve and tap and simply replacing it with a gravity tap, is probably not difficult. But is there enough room to get at it? You may have to consider that If you disconnect the solenoid you may get a fault code on the ECU, so you may have that to contend with. Can you not repair the solenoid? I found a vid on youtube which may be of some help.... https://youtu.be/ZldV4FHF2n4

..and a warm welcome from me. Sussex is a big place, East or West? Don't give your address, just be vague. I'm near Brighton myself.

Welcome in, and hope you're on two wheels soon!

Yep. Hello there from sunny Sussex. Working in an Xv535 1991. My partners old bike. Been riding since 1986 but fell out of the habit for a few years when I developed a Chronic pain condition.. but figure, lifes too short to mope about and so its finally time to resurect my life and remove a partially dead bike from the living room I'm excited to get out and ride and live again, so... here I am. Nice to meet everyone.

Hi all. I'm new here and working on a yamaha xv535 and the fuel tap solenoid is dead (it doesn't activate when a charge is run through it)... Considering a new tap is near £100, can I just put a normal main and reserve tap on it. I'm happy to not use the handlebar switch so can it be replaced with any Main Res and Off tap fixed to the old tap bolts under the auxiliary (main?) Tank? Many thanx in advance and sorry if this is in the wrong section. Seana

Thanks for the reply it's a bit of a brave project and don't think all the parts are from the same/age bike Have you got a email so I can some pics through please Cheers tony

Hi there Tony Welcome in... Not much to go on there, because DT175's have been made from 1974 to practically present day!! well that might be a bit of an exaggeration There's the early 70's through to the late 80's then another production in the early 90's through to early 2000's. Early ones (1970s-80's) are not year dated, so the frame number won't help, but later ones are. A picture of your future purchase would help in at least narrowing it down to the model by its appearance... Take a look at this website which gives you the different years https://www.autoevolution.com/moto/yamaha/dt/ Let us know if you need further help once you know what it looks like.

Hi all I looking to buy a dt175 project I don't have a reg or a v5 also I think it's a import can someone guide me on what I should also can anyone work out the build year by frame number.