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Thanks for the link. HON42 is shown there under Honda motorcycles and is identical to my key, being a long shape. My bikes's ignition switch looks original, and the key also fits the locking fuel cap. They may have been replaced or maybe the same manufacturer supplied both Honda and Yamaha with these items.

SILCA is the brand name of the key, and HON42 is the key code for HONDA. But of course if the cross section is the same as yamaha, then it doesn't matter whether the blank is for Honda or Yamaha. If the blank doesn't match Yamaha then of course there is a outside possibility that the ignition switch and key is from a Honda and has been retro fitted. Just a thought. A useful link to key blanks from the internet. https://ekeyblanks.com/content/IlcoDirectoryVehicle.pdf

ROFL! Having used to be a shoe repairer / key cutter, I can confirm that's normal for Timpsons... Go find your local cobbler, he can probably do it.

Having received only one key with the bike I thought it prudent to obtain another. Yambits will try to help if I can provide the key code which is written on the bottom of the ignition switch but I am reluctant to start taking the bike apart, at least just yet. As it's a very basic key, marked SILCA HON42, I asked Timpsons if they could cut me one. They had the short version of the blank, but not the longer, that I require. Strange to have different size keys with the same number. Timpson can obtain a 'long' blank within a few days. I asked what the cost would be and was told £30 for the first key and £15 for any additional ones. When I expressed disbelief at what I thought was the high price, I was given a lot of waffle about quality etc. The Saturday girl in my local 'We sell everything' shop can cut a perfect key. She clamps the key and a blank in the machine, presses a button and within a few minutes, a perfect key is produced. HON42 blanks are available on EBay but they look like the short ones. My next step is to try the local locksmith shop. I can't send the key away for fear of it getting lost although I could go a reasonable distance to get one cut.

Thanks for your reply. I checked again, no sign of a lock and the seat is firmly bolted down. Looked again and saw there was a 10mm bolt at the lower right corner of the oil tank side panel which I removed. After gingerly pulling gently on the cover, the back swung outwards, holding the oil tank on its base. When I first looked to see how to reach the filler cap I noticed that it was positioned closely under a frame member, which had me confused. With the panel moving outwards it makes replenishment simpler, and cleaner. Good design, whenever it was changed; but Yamaha forgot to tell Haynes.

The lock is right under the edge of the seat just forward of the left shock. Bottom picture... YAMAHA RXS 100 RXS100 SEAT 5H5-W2472-00 | eBay

Silly question, but how does one gain access to the filler cap? The Haynes manual explains that the dual seat pivots on the RH side and is opened by a key operated latch on the LH side. This should give access to it, and although I can see the cap just below the fuel tank, I can't see where the lock is, if there is one. Thanks for your help.

No, I'm not named after Mr Plissken, it's not after the drink either... I have scars on my left index from a 14' Burmese Python bite

Incidently Snake , are you named after this guy or the drink?

Having re read and re-read his first post Snake, I don't think now he was looking at buying a spare part, it was a question on why was the OEM one so expensive. Given the price, I for one thought it was request to source a spare Silencer, but its the downpipe he was referring to, which is rusty. It sounds like he's going to keep it and rust treat it. and in retrospect I think my reply actually included the reason why its expensive: its 34 years old, rare as hens teeth, has to be imported and thats why yamaha and Fowlers want over £200 for it.

Aaah, that would have been good to know earlier... lol The part numbers are different. If they were the same, they would usually have the same part numbers. That said, for £28, go for it... Buy it and see if it fits... Ok, I'm just completely lost now... Exactly which part are you looking for???

Thanks for the suggestion Neo, which I'd follow if I needed a new exhaust downpipe. As it's only surface rust I'll probably wire-brush it off and spray it with Simoniz VHT silver, after treating the surface. In the past I've used Jenolite liquid, as opposed to jelly, for such a surface but the last bottle I bought seem very ineffective. For info. the liquid was a pink colour, I've used Kurust recently and found it works well but I don't know whether it's suitable for an exhaust pipe. I'll have to read the instructions. I won't be riding in the rain anyway so the pipe's unlikely to rust through.

Yeah, Sorry about that Doc, my mistake, when you said pipe I wrongly thought you meant the Silencer, not the down pipe. In which case, whilst Silencers are likely to be available as a Pattern part at least, I think a down pipe will more than likely only be available OEM, ...from Yamaha! and your odds on sourcing one will still be difficult. but ...hey I liked to be proved wrong!, Nonetheless I wish you luck.. Having said that Doc, re-reading your original posts, if you say the RX100 down pipe is available from £28 onwards, I'd be inclined to get one, if its that cheap and just see what the differences are and how close a fit it is, with a bit of fettling or gun gum paste might be all thats needed to get it to fit, you never know!!. Alternatively, ebay is probably your best bet for new old stock or a better than yours used one. Once again , good luck, keep us informed of your progress.

Thanks for the comments. I was looking for just the exhaust pipe, not the silencer, so there's no brackets to worry about only its shape and dimensions. Ebay has some of the RX100 pipes under p/n 36LE46110000 and they do look similar being a sort of a shallow L shape with a loose flange fitting to mount to the engine and open where the silencer attaches. Parts drawing sketches of both attached. I should have added that if you click on the drawing, its name will be shown to distinguish between them, although they look the same.

I would use a heat gun as there may be thread lock on there and should help undo. I've had to jump on my breaker bar in the past

I've just been on You tube, looking at vids and comments on the RXS100 and 3 months ago a poster stated... I'm from the Southern part of India. I own a 1989 rx100. It is really tough to source parts. Yamaha alongside Escorts(an Indian brand) used to produce parts for the bike, but no longer. he went on to ask about parts in UK and the reply was, he was experincing the same situation. Well, looking at the part numbers you supplied and subsequently looking at the exploded diagrams of both exhausts, you can see straight away the mounting brackets are fitted in different positions. The frame for the RXS uses thicker steel and although may be of similar shape the mounting lugs must have been moved, hence the diffence in the mounting brackets of the exhaust.

"surely someone must sell pipes for all the other years.... " Not wanting to dampen your spirits but...even 1990 was 34 years ago! Manufacturers of OEM parts and pattern parts have to decided how many to make, bearing in mind how many bikes exist out there and how many were made and sold at the time! and how much demand there is for those parts, then you've got to store those parts. I've got a couple of 70's bikes BUT they were both popular bikes in their day with high numbers sold and still have a big following today as a large number of both machines are still around. Consequently they have a reasonable amount of parts available and remanufactured. I can't say for sure that the RXS100 sold in high numbers (in the UK) against the slightly bigger 125s and has the same following as my older machines, but I don't see them around, but i maybe wrong. Unfortunatley I think the odds are not stacked in your favour... Bit of googling, suggests the RX100/RXS100 was very popular in India. The RXS being made out of thicker steel and modified components.

You can never tell... But it's strange that fowlers only lists one year. Got a link?

I didn't think to check the year, assumed the same one would be used throughout the production period, Would there be a special pipe for just one year? Was 1983 the first year of production? Perhaps it had a unique design but surely someone must sell pipes for all the other years the RXs100 was made.

From what I can see, Fowlers don't list one for 1990, just for 1983. AND it's not available... Got a link?

I've just acquired a 1990 RSX100 in fine condition, apart from a rusty exhaust which detracts from its appearance. The only company I can find with one for sale is Fowlers (p/n 5H5-14611-00), £201.82 including VAT! There are many companies selling RX100 ones (p/n 36LE46110000) from about £28 upwards. I thought the RX100 and RXS100 were much the same bike. Presumably the pipes are different but can anyone confirm this and explain why the price of the RXS one is so high. Buying an RX one and trying to make it fit is a tempting idea but probably not feasible. Has anyone any ideas? Thanks.

Thanks for the replies. I have been trying penetrating oil but it is getting it into where the actual male and female threads are in contact. Also breaker bar is an old school Norbar torque wrench which doesn't flex, well not at these sort of torques. Access is tricky for anything too brutal, not wanting to damage the bike when it does let go and tools move about a bit. Also I seem to be at the maximum the rear brake can apply when preventing the wheel from turning via the chain which is of course straining those components too. I'm going to call in at the MOT garage over the weekend and see what they can do. Thanks again for all your suggestions. Richard

Watch out for shipping prices!

Yeah, too far away for me, I'm West Yorkshire lol. Ok, a 2' bar isn't as long as you imagine (I use a 3' breaker bar on mine). I assume you're trying to turn it by hand, your legs are stronger. I would try one of these: Do the same as you were with someone on the bike and the brakes. 1/ Soak the nut in penetrating oil. Put the bar on so it's horizontal and put your foot on it. Making sure it's not gonna come off the nut, start taking up the flex in the bar. Once there, bounce slightly. If you're using a proper breaker bar, I'd expect to see a very stiff nut flex a 2' bar a couple of inches. One of these bounces should crack off the nut. 2/ Soak the nut in penetrating oil. Put the bar on so it's horizontal and put your foot on it. Making sure it's not gonna come off the nut, start taking up the flex in the bar. Once there, get a third person to strike the back of the socket with a hammer (firm flat blows (doesn't have to be really hard or anything)). This will basically act like an impact gun.