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Hi all I'm new here I have a dt125mx 1981 it idles perfectly revs clean on the side stand, pulls away fine but then stutters and vibrates on part throttle and cruising along it is the same, if I open the throttle all the way it sorts it's self out and accelerates fine, if I move the needle all the way up it gets worse so I lowered it which is slightly better but not much I have tried everything I can think of to sort the running issues out I have, Rebuilt the engine top and bottom new everything. New Carb just to eliminate the old carb Rebuilt the original mikuni checked the float height, same running issue with both carbs. Idle jets I have tried 22.5(std) 25 27 30 Moved the needle to every position all the way up makes it worse (clip down) Flushed the tank (running e5) New ignition coil New plug Checked oil pump Checked for air leakage Exhaust is clear New air filter Chain and sprocket set Cleaned up the earth points and checked each plug for corrosion New battery Battery charging fine Checked timing is set correctly I'm at a loss with this bike pls help! Lol

Hi Bought a pretty knackered dt and it is missing the flywheel generator rotor . When going on ebay it seems that there should be a code to identify the rotor like FT260 or something I know the the part no is 576-81350-11-00 Frame 559 Am hoping it fits other bikes. Does anyone have the same year dt and if so could they let us know what the code number is. Thank you

I agree with Snake and I think my earlier quote will apply to your efforts

Those first 2 options are definitely not going to work lol The tin can insert idea will probably work until you find a replacement.

YAMAHA XT250 2024 OWNER'S MANUAL Pdf Download | ManualsLib YAMAHA PW80(T) OWNER'S SERVICE MANUAL Pdf Download | ManualsLib

Hi, Anyone know a good place to get pdfs of the workshop manauls? My local Yamaha dealer only could sell me the paper book, for $95. He said he had the pdf and checked with management and they said they couldn't sell it. Thanks!

Thank you Neo. Yes its gone oval and the shim if it ever had one is long gone... I'm either going with ptfe tape and see how long it lasts... or some copper slug repelling tape... or last ditch... a tin can insert or tin can new shim... or very last ditch.... I'll buy a new one. Many thanx.

Trouble is James, so few members these days seem to post, a few years ago the site was quite busy with lots of regulars but they seem to have moved on. Hopefully somebody with an answer might come along but it could take a while / weeks +. In the meantime, as you say no harm in trying another silencer, but you might have to do a bit of fettling to get it to fit and be gas tight. Good luck keep us posted.

Hahahah, yes, you have no idea how much I wanted to be able to remove that but...sadly, I failed. Is there a way we can delete our own posts? I hope you are right about the exhaust question. Getting pretty bleak out there for old XJ's I have resorted to getting the collector replicated in stainless but it certainly is not cheap! Also, it's a marving after market one so lacks the old rubber bush mounting. You have no idea how much vibration is taken out by that little modification! Here's hoping that someone will help. I might just purchase an old FJR 1300 silencer from a scrap yard just to see if it might fit. Trying times. I will try and improve my posting in future J

I'm sure someone will know something eventually... In the meantime, I've deleted the partial duplicate post.

Hi everyone, My last replacement exhaust for the XJ was a Marving 4 into two which fitted well and looked nice as well as running well. However the chrome fell off one of the silencers pretty quickly and no help was forthcoming from Marving when asked whether they thought this was acceptable (it was not) I'm now trying to sort the exhaust out again and options are extremely limited. There is one other post on these forums regarding the XJ900F exhaust where this was said: The picture no longer exists but I went to the Pipewerx site and can still find those silencers: https://www.pipewerx.co.uk/webshop/yamaha/fjr-1300-2001-2012/yamaha-fjr1300-2001-2012-pair-of-pipe-werx-plain-titanium-round-gp3-race-exhausts/ at least I think those are the ones referred to? I already have stainless downpipes and have a source to make me a collector box from the old one as a pattern however I have no way of confirming whether these silencers would fit or if there are any others that people know would work on the XJ900F 1990 model? So, can I ask, within the yamaha forum, does anyone know? Thanks in advance. James

Hey everyone, I purchased a 1969 Trailmaster the other day and when I picked it up it ran great but after taking it home on the back of my truck and starting it in my driveway, it idled far higher than it did previously. I'm new to bikes of any kind, especially carbureted 2 strokes and was looking for some help troubleshooting the issue. A friend and I started it up a couple times messing with the idle screw and decided it might be best to let it sit and adjust to the altitude change (from 4295 ft to 7000ft above sea level) because he said the same thing happened to a pit bike he purchased, and letting it sit for a day made all the difference. I tried starting it up today and it wouldn't turn on. It has fuel in the tank, fuel runs through the lines just fine, but it just won't fire. I tore down the carb to make sure nothing broke internally during the drive, and everything is still intact. I cleaned it up a bit and made sure nothing was clogged anywhere and put it back together and back onto the bike. I tried starting it up after that, and it still wasn't running. I double checked that I had spark, and I checked that fuel was still in the tank and running through the lines but had no luck getting it running. Does anyone have any advice about things I should try or check?

Not a problem...

Apologies and thank you. I’ve seen the Psych ones on eBay as well. These are twin port as apposed to the single port that we have, and they seem to make it clear that it won’t fit ours Also the studs for the reed is quite a lot larger than what we have. In an ideal world we’re trying to keep it as true to period as we can, so I guess I’m hunting for a needle in a haystack and hoping that someone out there as one from this period. It’s actually my son’s bike, he’s 20 and loves it, albeit a little down hearted at the moment. On the plus side neither of us knew a thing about how it works until a week ago and we’re learning as we go. Frustrating and rewarding at the same time. Thanks for reading and taking an interest, it’s much appreciated. apologies and thank u.

Moved...

Hi there Boxoffrogs, you've unfortunately posted in the wrong section, this is the area for 1st posts to introduce yourself, this needs to be in the Workshop section. As you're a paid up member you can be forgiven, hopefully a mod can move this into the right section. As regards to your DT cylinder , is this a Psychic one? which i think means you need their 70mm race carb to go with it as it's not compatible with the OEM carb. see ebay photo in their listing..https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303728870851?itmmeta=01HYG5QDDRHVF8964F7Y944430&hash=item46b7a6c5c3:g:jacAAOSwVI5haWBL&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwDaUsbdex5Z%2FN%2F%2BeVDKSxvLRGMTuGxYA58GZnk0VNgNrMmiz1O4x%2Fe%2Bo2peb%2B%2B13MeGLpf9Xy%2B%2FIQB8%2BnvKl688piZg5w3vDIhIguWQq7J91Gz7xt3pHMo%2FYppxpNzxSglAmHzHLGvT2%2BkRYZENreX3qzShHmEOoQX9AuUP6qf6eV%2FcCGzyq99Inak%2FkOMHHAdJWPvmVM3iCYU2F%2B6MKXHB3UWdfU0eCAOcoqUbdH5Tl6WLsmKl05zgii4PQlfIbcw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4rX3YX0Yw

Ahh can see now, you're referring to this bit? yes?. ..and you have already worked out the cause and remedy. It's very common for parts like this to have a bronze sleave lining/bush inside and it's that part that has probably worn away causing the boss to move about on the pivot. You can fabricate a new sleeve providing you can find a similar material, I know this because taking bikes apart you come across various bodges that previous owners have tried to varying degrees of success. So the part you would need is the arm itself as the lining bush will be part of it. That's why it doesn't show up on the parts diagram. and if there wasn't a bush then the boss is just machined metal with a close tolerance when new which has simply gone oval over the years. The two options being: to either ream it out so the hole is equal all around (remove the oval) and fit a metal sleave/bushing of uniform thickness. or cut a sliver of metal and try wrapping it around the shaft, i.e bodge it. You can get thin tin brass, metal sheets in modelling shops, that you can try fabricating one from, try ebay. something like this... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145190789050?itmmeta=01HYFM8YJR8XNME4P2JJBPXDRV&hash=item21ce0b9fba:g:JnIAAOSw16hkrgAq&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwF1kt81QocyvSrSnVPobJjdkDG7uW3KM%2F4gs%2FS1p4jjAj773U51RvIl9E4q0Rw4kGb8CdrvFVuG2%2FIGtIq0MdhmdaJYIWBpQCPXcxmxvMWGO3HGbZvFP9Rq9lWvRBbJQVwjuIjL40DoIrxvZV%2Bvx%2F7Pnkj3%2FPY4I6ds4ddUWxo1C%2Btfey1YsMC0heHBRbVDaxF40Nc0uVgQYosEBcGAwmCOs3C9hUdY4KPJnbPRi%2BWWPgn4Mfk01R6oMM%2FrFXk0%2FEQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8Tpo_TzYw

Looking for a little help as I’m totally stumped. DT MX 175. Top end rebuild. A modern replacement has an inlet port stud spacing of 71mm x 51mm. The part info says it will fit a 1981 - w reg. The actual one on the bike that needs a rebuild is about 57mm x 47mm The engine number code is 2k4 denoting 1979-1982 so the part should fit but it won’t. The new has a twin inlet and the original has a single inlet. 1st pick is the new part, others are the old.

Congrats!

Hahahaaaaa. A hannnnndbaaaaag? A phone strap actually. Lol. Here it is "in place"... I measured the inner circumference and the hole appears slightly oval and is probably worn... I'm attempting to make a shim that will sit inside to take up the excess play... or... I'll live with a wobbly lever. https://postimg.cc/Hc2grG5x

That is good news, Glad you got it sorted, I did say it's going to be something simple, sounds like different tolerances on the two sprockets causing the issue with chain. Thinking about it, I have a vague memory of something similar on one of my bikes in the long distance past that required a swap out of poorly machined parts, I don't recall the noise you describe but the solution was replace with a different sprocket to cure the problem. and well done for coming back with the end result. All too often there are multiple posts that remain unfinished with no conclusion or report back. I've given you another like on your last post there to help put you on the leaderboard.

OK So pulled the back wheel checked and cleaned everything tensioned chain and tried again….No good! Did 5 days in France which was lovely but buzz noise persisted. On return I decided for the sake of 15 quid to replace the front sprocket….Ideally you replace both sprockets and chain at same time but as only done 4/5 k miles on these happy to make an exception and also just to see if things improved. When I compared the new to the old the old had indentations from the chain in the rubber damper. Maybe the chain was too tight or maybe it was a duff one. Good news on the test ride as now the buzzing is no more! I had fitted DID chain with JT sprockets this time but in future will pay the extra for the Yam parts. Happy riding

At that price then, I don't see a reason not to give it a poke, if it works, great, if it doesn't, you've not lost much...

I have found a full carb rebuild kit on ebay with the diaphragms for under £26

How much are they?