Airhead

Ahh yes...Tony Dron...of Google fame, now I gotcha Andrew

why not buy a Haynes manual, you have been given all the info you need anyhow?

To be 'Famous' dont you have to be ' Known of ' ?

Hey Luke, If you're keeping it how about getting yourself a manual too?

Damn...I was hoping to see something violent here, ...........so It;s De-Restiction then !

There's an element of doubt about just how doubtful it's become Hey Drewpy just what is the postcode of the little chef that isnt on our way but might be near enough ?

I once had a 2003 DTR and the pump was similar to the pic I posted up

bugger!...I'm not familiar with how to set up that pump

post up a picture of yours luke.

It's looking doubtful for me now Tommy n bippo, looks like I might be furniture moving for one of my daughters. I've got bippos number if that changes though.

This should give you the idea

yes, when the throttle is closed they should align.

Not been back since you posted this! Sometimes I wonder why I bother!!!

Have a look if the pulley on the pump is operating properly at you twist the throttle. When the throttle is closed you will see that the 'pip' on the pulley is aligned with the peg (small screw) in the piston rod, If it isnt then use the cable adjuster to achieve this. Thats the only adjustment available

Good job mate whats english wheel?

Ohh dear thats a sorry tale and a lesson heard the hard way RJH

they would be dull with 12v bulb fitted

If you've sprayed Q20 and you were good with your aim and it didnt change anything then It's safe to assume the magneto side seal is OK. If the seal on the clutch side is passing then the bike would be smoky and have the erratic idling possibly, this is because it would be burning gearbox oil as well as 2T oil, theres a rough n ready check of that seal also Pour some clear liquid into a jar or a testube would be better still, something like paraffin or white spirit etc put the gearbox breather pipe into this container, start the engine and play around with the throttle and note if any bubbles come from the pipe or if the liquid level drops any (thats why a tube would be best because it doesnt hold much volume)

have you had the generator flywheel off? If so did you torque up the retaining nut/bolt properly? This type of intermittent sparking can be caused by a loose flywheel or sheared flywheel key etc. Another possibility is loose stator plate fixing screws have allowed the timing to slip (retarded) if these are not the reasons then I dont know what the problem might be so check this out thoroughly. The noise I would say is normal What isnt normal is opening the throttle a lot when attemting to start the engine, not generally good practice!

try squirting just a little oil into the sparkplug hole, all this attempted starting will have washed the oil from the piston rings and reduced the compression...about 10cc

Great stuff nigel, it will be much better that the bus again now

Greetings noratx what is the model code for your bike? Here is a rear fender for a 1HR model code (France) http://www.ebay.fr/itm/Garde-boue-arriere-neuf-Yamaha-125-DTLC-1HR-bleu-/290900049702?pt=FR_JG_Moto_Pi%C3%A8ces&hash=item43bafe7f26#ht_632wt_879

I think they look great slice I dont care what MCN says about them they look more or a cafe racer style than the 2 much bigger bikes they compared it to

there are two types of pv my 2003 bike had a diamond shaped end that went inside of the pulley and this type has the means of fitting it in a position that would reduce power output, the other type had no restricted position, with that type you either had it right or wrong by 180 degrees; you'd have to take the pulley off to see what you have

The thing is...did the guy actually do a proper test with a gauge or did he just feel compression and assume it's fine? What measurement did he get? It should be about 100psi you'll see if you look through this thread and on the subject of looking through this thread there is detailed info on setting up the pv