Airhead

get a haynes manual how about an intro...we have a new members section and it is considered good manners to post there first

I started in 75 The FZR looks a good un

A pleasant welcome to you sir

NO! the flywheel needs to seat on the taper, with the woodruff key in good condition and seated properly in the crank and the flywheel slot

They are utter rubbish, and it would be good practice to apply a thin smear of silicone (about 1/4" wide) around the bore circumference on both sides before fitting. I would do this even with the much better genuine yamaha ones also. If the head gasket is 'passing' you will see a few drips of water appearing on the floor around the left footrest area because the expansion tank overpressure relief is connected to the frame spar on the left. with a very bad leak you will see bubbling in the expansion tank...almost as if it is boiling!

Yeah John...Manchester hasnt seen so much trouble since the last Glasgow Rangers visit Obviously Hadrians wall isnt doing its job very well ...so see you at squires then

Too right it's not right, the pulley should be unable to move without taking the PV with it, I suggest you have a look at the back of the pulley and the PV end to see how this can be happening, Also while you're at it...try moving the pV (with a spanner) it should move easily

say whaaat?

Happened to me once, one of the shoe springs had broken!

connect the red wire to the terminal (red probe) that shows infinate resistance or as i said look on the rectifier for the symbol i mentioned. you really must get this the right way round. yes it could also be a bad gnd, you may find a gnd connection on one of the ignition coil mounting screws

Its is possible you are connecting to the rectifier the wrong way round, is there a sybol on the rectifier...a triangle with a line across one of the points of the triangle? the red wire should connect to this terminal

what head gasket did you use...a black rubber coated one or a cheap copy all metal one?

Gareth, Can you explain this comment in detail? I assume you have checked the fuse?

Greetings G

same way as you posted in here

its a very heavy 125 Harry but it looks great if thats your bag, if you want a fast 125 buy a TZR or an aprillia 60 is well fast enough.

well it seems having such big feet means you will be getting the welder out then

Try here marshman http://www.nrp-carbs.co.uk/yamaha_carburettor_diaphragms.htm

moving it just one spline is too much?

Great to see you back Goff back so whats all this about Yorkyshire then...you have left Oldhamshire?

Those gravity defying pics are awesome NEV...looking good

Congratulations anthony, take care

I'll say for the last time that I would be surprised if it isnt a clutch side crank seal issue...if you want to prove the pump check valve for your own peace of mind fair enough. Dark now...ohh so if we want to buy your bike we have to travel a very long way? Please fill your profile in ! If you do remove the oil pipe, the oil will drain from the pipe to the carb...thats ok let it but upon replacement just hold the pump pulley fully open for 30 secs with the engine idling, this will quickly fill the line.

JimR happy birthday

That strategy wont work unfortunately because the oil feed is directly into the carb venturi...not into the fuel bowl! I can see why you would want to do this test first...but i am sure you will find it ok/ the crimp has a split in it?? push against the split and chase it round with a small screwdriver and at the same time tease it off the nipple. Do the other easy test...have a sniff of the geabox oil and monitor the level to see if it's falling.