Wessie34

I'm guessing you haven't a multimeter ? you can trace back from the light bulb to the source then.If not get a bulb holder with 2 wires attached and get tracing ! I'm not familiar with different models but does the engine have to be running ? good luck

Hi John, I hope you're well and managing to dodge the showers! Had it out again and still ran fine for 20 mins or so, then a puncture and no spare so will try again at the w/e. There's no points etc,some sort of electronic thing, checked with a tdc gauge so fairly accurate. all i did was shorten the HT lead 10mm and re-fitted the plug cap and so far so good. It does idle a bit high when warm but assume thats just a bit of throttle slide wear ? Thanks, Dave

The DT (175mx) has had a rebuild, (crank, piston etc) and ran fine for about half hour then lost power a bit and struggled to accelerate, I ran it like that for a few minutes so don't think it was mechanical, seizing etc. Anyway, checked the plug, OK, so had it out today (20mins) and it ran fine! So although the carb floods a bit I don't think it was that cos I ran it with the tap off to see if it would clear and it made no difference. So , can the coil breakdown when hot and cause similar symptoms ? I've checked the resistance values and they match the spares I have but obviously it's cold now so not sure how to check, any clues good people, Dave

I have the same issue with my fazer 1000, on one ride the bike felt very vague on right handers, two weeks later at the mot we realised the alignment marks are useless, I now use a straight edge every time I adjust the chain.

It's difficult to tell on the web but the rims appear to have a raised centre ( trough ) so maybe they're tubeless ! Inner tubes should have a nut holding it in place on the rim. Are yours tubed at the mo but would like to go tubeless ? If so any Yam dealer should know, Dave

Sorted ! The red/yellow wire broken inside the left hand switch ! and then looks to be soldered / bodged but the blue wire, anyway, new one ordered as it looks tight to re-solder. Thanks for trying to help, Dave

Thanks Blackhat, it is a bit different but it's confirmed that mines wrong somehow. ive found one with the same layout as my ig switch so I'll bell it through (again) tomorrow night and then "adjust" my wiring to suit ! I'm no DT wiring expert but hours staring and tracing my wiring, then looking at diagrams you sort of get to know where things should go. It's great fun ain't it ! ?

Thanks Kev, that makes total sense. The wiring diagram shows that but somehow mines wrong. What I don't understand is my bike doesn't look butchered, what maybe have happened is the left handlebar switch has lights on/off , low/high beam, indicators and horn, but again the connector block looks original , so rather try and find which type it should be I'm hoping to correct it by using the yellow mag wire !

Could it get anymore complicated ? So the fuse blowing looks to be that the ignition switch powers the lights (using the battery ) when in the no3 position ( off, on, on with lights and park) so is this right? All the wiring diagrams I have seem to show one of the mag wires ( yellow) powers the lights! now I know you can't post links to stuff but my Haynes shows it different to one I've found on the web and different to my ig switch.Ive belled it through and there is a spare red/yellow wire from the on/off - high/low handlebar switch which I think at one time maybe powered the lights! So, I think I might disconnect the out blue/red out feed from the ig switch and use the out feed red/yellow and connect that to the lighting supply, that way the lights are powered from yellow wire from the mag, the White wire from the mag charges the battery. what bit have I got wrong please ? Dave

Ah ! Wrong again, thought I knew what I was doing there for a minute. I'm hoping they're easily available. Will check this aft. Also, thanks Tommy, I'll give it a go. Ok, got a rectifier ordered, thanks

Rectifier diode eh ? Not sure where it is but there's a silver case with fins on and one wire to it but it wasn't earthed when I bought the bike ( it was mounted onto a plastic bracket! ) so I mounted onto a good earthed bracket and assumed voltage rectifier ? Anyway, I guess it's a rect diode, I'll get the Haynes out this weekend and check it. If it's faulty does it just let the volts rise and therefore blow the fuse? I haven't checked running voltage yet as I thought it was a wiring issue. Thanks for the tip, Dave

Yeah fella, there's an 12 mm one on ebay so I'll measure mine later. Got it running today but now it's blown the fuse ! So fault finding begins, wonderful.

Yeah, definitely different, there's some on ebay so maybe that's the only option.

The steering lock looks good and intact but I have no key ! Is it somehow possible to buy a key or replace the lock itself ?

Sorry, couldn't load the pic, but it's no3 on the pdf, 90201-17543 !

I was going to delete this post cos I think I now know ( but can't find delete button !) anyway it appears to be 2mm according to Padgetts, if so that's the problem, I have one on order, although the price of if makes you wonder if it's being bought off Rossi's race team !!

Me again ! Tightened the clutch centre nut and it locks to the outer ! Brilliant ! ( I've bought a pup springs to mind !) I've not sat down and worked out the mechanics of it as there is a shim behind the clutch outer and one between which the Haynes manual agrees with. But, they're both 3mm thick and wonder if the twat I bought it off swopped bits? ( it came with spare engines but clutches removed !) so, any way off checking the correct thickness? I'll scan the web later but I thought I'd just throw it out there and hope, Dave

Thanks blackhat, I've decided they're OK, well, you good people have. I have the crank cases together now anyway so they better be ! Did your mate on the DT ( holed piston ?) get it sorted ?

Thanks everyone, I am changing the clutch main as that seems worn, also appears to be in backwards although shouldn't matter! I'll change the output shaft one cos be daft not to. And the needle rollers do seem fine so they're stopping, phew. T Y get them from yamaha, about £20 each.

I can find the two large bearings on yambits but can't find the smaller needle rollers anywhere, I could maybe knock them out and measure but not sure if I would be buying the exact right size etc, has anyone ever replaced theirs ? Dave,

So, I have split the cases on my 175 Mx and the crank was longer! Maybe it's from a 250, I have no idea, anyway its no use as a spare cos it's been ground down, what idiot would do that !

I was thinking maybe search for a later air box ! A less peaky engine is what I want anyway, I can now use the filter I've just bought, phew. I'll check the jet needle and source the smaller jet, thanks for taking the time to explain it all, brilliant.

Thanks Cynic, you do know your stuff. I'll check the jet needle tomorrow night. Am I right in assuming the engine will be ultimately less powerful as it's pulling less fuel and air ? ps. Mine's the earlier one.

Well here we go again you say ! I hope there's a fix for this cos it's doing my head in ! ive done some trawling of posts on here and discovered a problem I didn't know I had, mines a 1980 model,2k4 engine, air filter on the right as you sit, and I believe it should have the 2H500 carb on it, mine has the 3U500 on (160 main ) but, I believe because the air filter I have is more restrictive it'll run rich! It didn't have a filter fitted so I assumed it needed one ( I'm guessing it was run without!) ps. Not used it yet. So, I don't want to source the correct carb cos ( I hope ) this one will maybe go quicker as the other is only a 130 main ! What do you say ? I know now that pod filters are out So can I fit a less restrictive filter of some sort? I have a K&N in at the 'mo but I'm guessing that is a direct replacement for standard, can you help please, Dave

No problem, symmetrical hub! I'm still new at this DT stuff.