DirtyDT

Only on a motorway. I would be more worried about being passed by a bloke with the Olympic torch doing an amateur jog.

The DTR is about fun and thrashing the gears. So personally I would keep the sprockets the same. There was a huge amount of cash thrown at getting the gearing right at the design stage. If It was a big 4 stroke thumper that you wanted a few more MPH out of then doing this would be OK (in my opinion). Other people may disagree with me. Standard is good.

True. Big rear sprocket = better acceleration, lower top speed. Small rear sprocket = better top speed. lower acceleration. However; There is a price to pay because if you mess with the sprockets you affect the gearing so riding up hills or with a head wind will be more difficult. Only consider doing this is you ride mainly in top at near the top end of your bikes speed. With a DT I wouldn't change the gearing. If you do intend to, minus one tooth would be enough. There is a spreadsheet to calculate what the changes would be in Excel. You should be able to find it with a little googling - motorcycle gearing worksheet or LINKY for an online one.

Cheers John. It's only ever going to be as good as the worst part of it. Some parts only come up from time to time so these will be later additions. The seat is worse than I thought but I have a plan and you can't even get things like the airbox outlet to the carb anymore. My one is brittle. I have a plan there also. It makes a decent rebuild expensive and difficult.

The difference between 600cc and 1000cc is 400cc. That's the easy part. Style of bike matters as much as cc's. A 600 sports bike should out perform a 1200 cruser for the most part. Something like cynics TDR 250 is a rocket. Will your licence be limited? What style would you want? 2 stroke or 4 stroke? Narrow the field before you think of cc,s.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

Too late for that Paul. I took the wheels to the re-spoker last Friday. Work he is doing: Stainless Steel rims x2 Stainless Steel spokes x2 Hub painting in black satin x2 Bearings x4 Seals x3 (one in on the brake plate so I will do tht one) Rim tape X2 Tubes x2 Tyres x2 - I wanted a mix of trails knobblies but wasn't too fussed about a traditional pattern. Went for Trailwings TW301/302 Like this

OCD? I am like that with car seat. Almost as if someone else has messed with the seat and mirror.

Do you think that these will polish out?

I use a Motrax Deluxe one. Sewn in soft cover for the bars. Reflective triangle for the back, front & back loops for security chains and a under bike strap. Be careful if you go for a cover, some are not rainproof and are intended for inside.

Hi back. Welcome to the forum.

And from me. Have a great birthday.

Hi and welcome to the forum Roy.

Probably a bad connection so it is shorting or your regulator isn't working and the speedo is taking the full magneto power.

I had a similar problem with the SV. I got a great one from German ebay for a song.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

Hi and welcome to the forum.

As per drewpys answer. The weather (heat) can mess with the master cylinder seals if they are on their way out. Had it once on a car in baking weather. No brakes. Not good kev.

Number 8 it is. Check that item 8 is not too loose. strip off item 15 It doesn't have to be really tight but and then you can get to item 8. You need a C spanner (people use a flat screwdriver and hammer but not recommended). Tighten up 8 until it is not stiff but not too loose. It squeezes the ball bearings which may have worn due to use or lack of grease. Personally I would change the head bearings. Taper ones are best if you can get them. if not, and you strip this down further, you will probably find that the ball bearings are in bad condition or even have some missing. Lots of grease around the ball bearings.

I thought the video started off showing her after she had landed on her face.

yep. At the top of the frame neck there should be a large threaded ring that is normally tightened by a C spanner. It tightens up the head bearings when they start to wear. You may have to remove the large stem bolt and a cover to see it. It will be at the top of the part of yolk (triple tree) that goes through the frame.

Hi Dan. How old is the battery? If it is too old it may not be holding a charge. If it is just "hit and his" it sounds like a bad connection somewhere. Clicking normally means a relay. I would check and clean all the earths and terminals from the battery to the relay and then to the starter motor.