DirtyDT

I don't think there is a regulator. It might be worth looking to retro fit one. Before you do anything get a multimeter on the headlight circuit and see what volts are going to the headlight bulb at various revs. Do the same for the battery. Is it 6v?

Err.....................................collect them. I don't know to be honest, part of the National Trust land down the road. Really happy with the way she went. Just seems a little short of fuel at the top end. 150 MJ in it She was happy to redline out of top gear and push to 60 - 70 MPH indicated.

Took the TS out for it's first run with the new crank seal. Some side roads, a few twisties and a little duel carriageway and it runs a million times better. I may go one size up on the main jet. Here it is at Nanpantan.

Take it to your nearest key cutters. Timpsons did a few for me a while ago and they all fitted. LINKY

That pad looks a little naughty.

I would agree with Airhead,

If the crank is bad then I would leave it alone. a second hand engine will be a few hundred quid. It might be worth £200/£250 if you know someone who can fit a new engine in it. How sure is he that the crank has gone?

I was surprised just how clean the whole plate and coils were.

DID - good make, X ring - good spec. £33 - great price.

The job is not too difficult but before you do this, have you tried cleaning and lubing the chain? What may make the job a little expensive is any tools that you may need to buy. These, obviously, can be reused for your next maintenance job. For a chain and sprocket change you will need a selection of sockets, spanners maybe the odd screwdriver, allen keys(??), something to hold the front sprocket still while you undo the bolt(s) & hammer but you need to check first what kind of chain you have because you may also need a chain splitter. Has the YBR got a center stand because the rear wheel needs to be removed. The first thing to check your chain and see if you have a split link. This is a link in the chain that can eaily be removed without a chain splitter. If you have one of those, a center stand and someone to hold the bike and press the rear brake then a set of standard tools are all you are going to need. Don't buy cheap tools, they are a waste of money. The Halfords professional range of tools are a good blend of quality and price.

It was rock hard and came out very easily. I forgot to load the mp4 version of the video so it may work for you now. It was the one that was in the bike at Squires so it coped with a 100 mile each way trip but it was a bit stupid of me to be honest.

Hi and welcome to the forum Jamie. When you are ready with your questions, start a new thread in the appropriate section. Scroll down the home page to see the best section for them.

Right O people. Stripped out the left hand crank seal and replaced it in situ. this afternoon. Some photos: Ready for the seal to be pulled. Old seal pulled out, ready for the new seal Old and new seal. The new seal is quite different to the original one. New seal in Coils back on and timing checked. I put the rest of the bits back on, re-set the carb to factory spec, changed the foam ramair filter back to the original airbox and then gave it a healthy kick to start it. It seems to have done the job and revs, returns and idles a lot better. A test ride is needed but I won't be able to do that today. A little video on my video wall (video 5 on the wall) LINKY

Have you tried the non UK ebays? You will need to check this is the right one but it looks like the part number is 3D9H25011100 and they are £48.60 new LINKY

Hi and welcome to the forum.

That is a good bit of piping Paul. Cheers Pat. 2 different carbs with 2 different pilot jets but I still can't get it how I want it. I have messed with both pilot screws but it is still not right. Not sure I want to spray easystart on a hot manifold but a new exhaust gasket won't hurt. I need to spray the exhaust anyway and the exhaust that is on it is NOS. Cost as much as the whole of the YA6. Really appreciate all of the advice chaps.......................it can be so frustrating!!!!

I did, and the barrel base and the carb mounting rubber. Both carb rubbers are new and soft. I will track it down as it can't be anything but an air leak somewhere. Any thought on what your problem is? It has been cold!

Cheers Paul. I will try and do that tomorrow (weather and a trip to Frankie and Bennys permitting) and measure before and after at both the sidelight and the battery at different revs. If that doesn't seem to help, I will connect it to the grey wire and do the same tests. While I am there I might try and pop out the mag side crank oil seal and fit a new one. There is still an issue with the engine hanging high revs and slowly coming down. I did the WD40 test but it didn't seem to make a difference. I swapped the carb back from the one I got from you to the original one and swapped the filter from the standard box to a ramair foam filter but none of it seemed to make any difference.

So the feed in terminal and sucking any additional volts before it hits the diode? I have a selection of single and double bullets so easy to do.

Oh yes, a diode, so the current only goes one way.

On the US models it is a single connection to the grey wire on mine. red and red/white are the colours for the rectifier on mine. The same half wave rectifier as the DT, Paul. Like this

Hi Paul. I am talking about one of these. 6v but I didn't think they were AC or DC specific! Do you think this is a bad idea? It is a 6v one and as far as I was aware it just kept the volts to 6ish and earthed out the rest. Happy for other suggestions....

+2 they are not caller Main Stealers for nothing.

Not an new oil tank but the recent side panel fitted. The headlight is the one I fitted before Squires last year. It is a pattern CD400 complete unit and fits perfectly. There are a few blown bulbs and I have put this down to not having a regulator. The UK ones didn't have one but the US and Canada ones did. A new 6v DT regulator arrived this morning so I can mount it to the original fitting and connect it to the loom where there is an existing connector. The new (wrong) battery is fitted and I am getting about 1.7v running charge with the lights off and 6.7v with the lights on. Does this seem right? There is about 9v going to the headlight side bulb which I hope the regulator will cure and might explain the blown side light and tail bulbs. Engine wise, I still have the problem with the revs running away when the bike heats up. I haven't tried the WD40 trick to see if it is the mag side seal yet but when I do I might as well pop out the seal and replace it. I don't have any other air leaks and the carb is new (thanks Paul) but is there anything else I need to look at? The original engine is ready stripped but I don't want to start on it as I want to give it a decent lick of case paint and there is too much damp in the air at the moment. I also need to repaint the exhaust as it has lost a lot of paint where I probably didn't cure the paint quickly enough.