DTGordo

I've got no idea now but I vaguely recall something about stuffed seals letting the air in = high revs. Can't remember if that was the crank seals or round the carby. Maybe both. Others here will know much more about that. I've got a 175 old thing (like a '75 farm bike "AG" or something) that was all over the place with the revs. When I took the case cover off to check the clutch I noticed the right crank seal was not seated properly and half hanging out. Pushing it back improved things heaps. You can give them a visual at least? Other than that I'm done....... Hope that helps, Gordo

Hi all, Just working my way through all the on-going issues with the old girl and she's now jumping out of 3rd. Just a little and then back in and not all the time. I had the case apart a while ago and it's been since then. I haven't been able to resolve it by trying to make sure that I had the selector levers adjusted properly but that doesn't seem to be working and may be un-related. Everything else feels pretty good. Any ideas appreciated, Gordo

I agree with Blackhat on trying a new plug. Could be dodgey coil and/or lead too but if it's related to being hot or cold and you can run for at least a bit it sounds like a carby problem. Messing around with the timing might be causing you problems too.

XL250SA when i was 17 that I thought I could ride through any river, up any hill and pretty well smashed it to bits and then sold it. Short break with a car. XL250SB after my car was stolen. I looked after this one and was a bit older and more sensible. Sold the bike when I got another car and then sold the car and moved to Sydney. Back in Canberra and a mates brother sold me an old DR400 for not much. A real basher but it just went and went. Sold that and then pretty much rode a push bike everywhere for 5 years or so. Then got a VW type 3 station wagon which I reckon is the best car I've ever had. Sold the car and went to Central America, the US and Europe, coming home after about a year. Back to cycling. Got married and a car. Got kids and then got the 1975 DT250 which I registered and ride it regularly. Found a 2nd bike for $200 and AG 175, maybe 1974/75. Hard to find info on that so it stays in the shed and gets the occassional start up and ride up and down the driveway. 3rd current bike is an XL250SA that a guy at work told me about and asked if I was interested. For 50 bucks, of course and the circle is complete. He also asked me if I was into shit bikes that don't cost much. Sums it up really.

Got pestered into Facebook a few years ago and now I find friend requests from people who aren't my friends to be annoying and I just pretty much ignore it. Just can't be arsed. Although I did get a friend request from a girl that I hadn't seen since high school some 30 years ago. That was kind of nice but then I started getting cards and poked and all this other shit........still couldn't be arsed. Twitter? What's that?

I don't know the settings for '77 DT but if you went off your manual it should be ok. Are you getting spark? Gordo

Geez, 8K RPM?? Didn't know they went that high. You running nitrous on it? Anyways, can you back the throttle screw out? Sorry that's obvious I know. Is the needle in the right spot on the throttle valve/cyclinder? It'll have a few notches on the needle but I'd be surprised if you get 8000RPM from that. I can't see that there would be much else that would push the idle speed up if everything else was ok. Maybe some seals are stuffed and causing problems. Hope that helps, Gordo

So, what's the feeling in regards to these improving performance? Gordo

Hi there how's it going, If you have spark and from what you wrote it sounds to me like the fuel might be running out in the carby so check the inlet needle and seat? Check the the float height too. Hope that helps, Gordo

If you have a good spark it has to be the fuel? The carby can be a bit pesky to make sure all the jets and holes are clear sometimes. Are you sure that fuel is getting through to the cyclinder?

Hi Crozier, Apart from the decals there'll be the capacity embossed somewhere on the barrel. On the side at the bottom near where it bolts on to the crankcase. Hard to find the big 2-strokers so good luck. Gordo

Hi Cameron, Good that you've got a manual. Bonus that you got it at a market. I haven't had any issues with foreign manuals. Some manuals are better than others and each of the two that I have, while mostly the same, cover some small areas a little better than the other. If I still can't work it out I come to the forums to get another very helpful angle. Funny thing, I checked the Haynes website and they have manuals for a Supermarine Spitfire, Avro Lancaster and the USS Enterprise. What's that all about? Oh and the dealers love you for all the spare parts that you will need.......!! Gordo

Great and thanks, Will get onto that and see how I go. Gordo

Greetings all, I've been out riding quite a bit and the bike is going well but not in the wet. If anyone has any advice on this one it would be mucho appreciated: When it's wet enough to pull water up off the front tyre, the bike will go for a bit, nothing for a bit, then go for a bit a couple of times with maybe a backfire or two and then stop dead. If the engine's hot it will start after a short wait but sometimes go/stop/go/stop again. I'm suspecting water getting into the coil. The lead is a bit loose at the coil and I've tried to seal it but that didn't work. Taking the plug out it has a bit of orange spark and it looks like that's where the problem is at but I'm not sure if it could be anywhere else. (For a while there I had a little water getting into the top of the carby before I replaced washers and got a new rubber boot). Before racing out to get a new coil, I just wanted to ask if anyone thought it might be something else. If it is the coil, I can't see if the lead can be replaced and how this might be done. It runs fine when dry so I just have to work out what the water's getting into. Thanks, Gordo

Sorry, I've only got the obvious, thinking out loud sort of stuff.... Is that with the choke on or off? It does sound like lack of fuel which points to the carb. If the choke is on it might be a problem with the starter jet. If you can then start and run it without the choke on for sure that's where it is. Maybe there's some moisture in there somewhere which can be quite pesky. What's different when it's hot? Starting with and without the choke? Has it been tuned recently and that's ok? Sounds like the spark is ok but if really cold (like not t-shirt weather) I was thinking it might be the lead/plug/coil and the connections.

That looks like an earlier side cover. I couldn't see the '77 175 on the parts listing I use but the 250 and 100 didn't match that as far as I could see. I have one from the '74 dt though so if it is the same I'm sure I could make a mould. Have you been able to find an image of the cover that you need? Gordo

"Eddie, yo, Eddie". Ja ja dass isst einfach scheisse.

Hi Col68, They don't seem to appear much on EBay so a wrecker might be your best bet? Gordo

Thanks for the feedback. It's all back together with no leftover bits. Had a short ride today and it's running nicely. Gordo

Ooo, turps? If you like the smell I guess but not for me. Mineral based baby oil on your hands for grease/oil, oil based paint. Works a treat and then rinse off with normal soap and warm water. Even smells nice.

Yep, stuck screws can be a pain. I've tried penetrating oil, heat, tapping with a hammer (on the screw head, on the screwdriver and anywhere near the stuck bit, leaving if for a while, trying all that again. I found that some of my screwdrivers fit into a socket so can get a little more leverage while leaning on it (I'm sure that lots of people know that but I thought that was amazing when I found out - I should get out more). An impact driver would be really good but I haven't got one. When the slots are suffed I try pliers on the head if I can get at it well enough. I've cut a new slot across the head and then if all else fails, I cut the head off with a dremel tool or angle grinder (reaaaally carefully). If the screw isn't too hard you can also drill the head off. Once the head's off the threaded bit usually comes out ok. You can also get little kits specifially for removing screws but I've never bothered. After that, I clean the thread out with a tap if I can get to it ok and get a new screw/bolt. Gordo

Good news then. That's what I should have checked as well but I'm happy replacing a few bits and pieces while the case is open. Happy trails.

I'm not qualified to give advice on the case other than maybe I'm similar to you in that I might be a bit handy, like pulling things apart and putting them back together and then sometimes bite off a bit too much. I'm happy to share what I've done and maybe the mistakes too. Anyways, I got my case apart ok and tried to remember where everything goes. I took my time and tried to be really careful. I was a bit nervous about it and to be honest will be relieved when it's all back together. Good thing is I could see how the thing works (well sort of) and I'm ready to put the bits back in. I'm picking up my parts tomorrow and hope to get into it over the weekend......

Hi jdogg, I just went through similar and had to split the case to get at where the noise was coming from. You'll get some help when the sun comes up in Europe I reckon. You could check the clutch plates first if you haven't already but it sounds like that is working ok. Then you might be looking at the bearings in the transmission. Gordo

I've got all the bits and pieces on order. I could get all the seals except the LH crank. Couple of questions: Mr shopman has Yamabond 3 which he was saying for the case. I'm not sure on that so any thoughts on this? And for the cover gaskets, does anyone use a sealant/bonding agent in addition to the gasket? I've never done this but saw this in a service manual. Otherwise hope to have it back together next week and clocking up he pushbike kms in the meantime. Thanks for the advice so far. Gordo