AndyDtr08

I've only ever taken my standard 350 up to just over 100 but know it had more in it and as I say thats standard. Just have a look through Classic Motorcycle mechanics sometime and you'll see the modded ones. They are around 58bhp standard and once stan stephens has stage 3 tuned it, some upgraded carbs fitted and some tarty pipes, I'm sure 122mph isnt a problem. They claimed 120 top speed standard after all. My dream is to own an rd500. It will happen one day!

Upload a couple of pics of it. I've got photos of a couple you can compare it with. I would imagine you will be ok but you'll have to just accept the consequences if you do get caught with it.

As long as the plug is sparking well, it's working. Changing it will be a waste of time/money if its working. You'll want to do a plug chop and see what the mixture is like. If it's running lean then you'll have a good chance of holeing the piston and ending up needing a full engine rebuild. If it's running rich then it will not be performing as well as it could and you may foul the plug.

They did increase the jet size as standard from 210 to 240 from 1997 onwards, starting with the fist 4BL model. They then changed it back in 2004/05 with the first DT125RE. Back to 210. I'm guessing that was because of how restrictive te exhaust was with all the CAT. If you've got a DEP on I'd start on a 250 and work down if you need to.

I remember buying 5 pairs of tights for props on a film before and the girl behind the counter looked very worried. I think she thought we were going to rob a bank. They do keep you very warm though!

Cos there is a hell of a load of money in breaking DTR's. Wish there wasnt as i hate to seem them being broken but fact remains they are worth more in parts often. I know the guy breaking this from another forum.

You'll need a compression tester which is a tool. It has a thread section that fits into the whole where the spark plug goes, you then turn the engine over and the guage shows what compression is inside. It should be somewhere around 100psi i believe.

Before they started fitting the servos and "pinning" them to restrict, they just didnt fit anything. The L/H side just had a holder that blocked it off and the valve was held in place by this. They often turned it 180 degress to restrict it for learner legals. when they did fit the powervalve, it could be restricted by pinning the pulley wheel to the cylinder as you say but then the servo would be attached and cables too. Otherwise water could easily get in the holes in the pulley housing where the cables would thread into. The image I've linked shows the blocked off side with no pulley from an earlier DTR model but its the same idea. If the bikes got a good powerband from 8krpm then it suggests that the powervalve is the right way round and just acting as the exhaust port would normally. Sounds more like a carb problem if it's to do with the throttle position, very strange though as you say it spluttering the moment it hits 8krpm in 3rd+. Your mechanic is right, the servo won't affect the top speed but will give you better performance lower down. I'd take the exhaust off and check the powervalve position just tor rule that out, then give the carb a good clean, cleaning all jets inside and doing the standard checks whilst it is apart (haynes manual will be useful there). A compression test might be a good idea too. If it seems low, try putting some 2 stroke oil down the plug hole and doing a test again, if it comes up dramatically it could suggest piston ring/ bore issues.

HI consmos, I've just been readin your thread about your issues and seizures. Good luck with that, sounds like your making good progress. The paint was Hycote aluminium cote and i used just a halford primer. I used hycote petrol resistant lacquer on top but havnt tested its protection yet. I actually didnt do a great job at sstriping it back and just sanded it down with paper. It looks better in the photos than it does up close in real life. In future ill use some nitro moors or any paint stripper and then i'd use an acid etch primer. then try my best to flatten it back. It was a very poor and rushe job tbh. Yeah the bike is almost there. Like i say I want to get the exhaust re sprayed and the tank finished. Then it will be up for sale. My bike funds balance has seen better days and i want to get my dt200wr done. Might be going to look at another DT today actually, i really need to stop buying bikes!

Don't let him get an R6 whatever you do. A 125 is a suitable bike for someone learning and can also be good afterwards. I recently rode lands end to john o groats on a 125 using all types of roads including the m6 and m1. You need to build up a hell of a lot of experience before riding a bike designed for racing. An R6 is an incredibly powerful bike and I personally would not want one. I rode a 50cc for a year that would just touch 30mph. Then i moved on to a DT125 and rode that from 17 to just afte my 21st birthday and it was a fantastic bike. I now have a Yamaha Rd350 and thats fast enough. A friend who i ride with has an R6 and the amount of near misses he has had and the speed of the bike just scares me. Glad you've got to the end of your situation and glad you're able to move on from it by putting it down to experience and not giving up on bikes but take tha advice of people on here and ask him to get a 125 and get alot more experience before moving on to a bigger bike. Woudl be interested in seeing the footage as well!

I would imagine it wont have the pulley fitted and will just have the holder so the only way to check would be to have the exhaust off and feel up the port to see if the valve is flush with the rest of the port.

The problem you're having is the same alot of people have. The confusion between powerbands and the power valve. Powerband - If you looked at a graph of bhp vs rpm the powerband would be the section of the rev range that provides the most power so on yours it will start at 8krpm and maybe end around 11k rpm. Powervalve - A system that many 2 stroke bikes use to close the exhaust port off or "lower it" which smooths the power out and gives more power lower in the rev range. If the servo is not controlling the powervalve it is effectivly irrelevant as it won't be closing the port off and so the engine wil run as it wasnt there at all.

I asked this same question when i first saw this bike. On another forum It was pointed out that this style was sold in france and other places before 2004. They arrived here in the u in 2004 but the styling was definityl around. Take the dt230 lanza. A 1997 has this type of panels etc. With regards to the indicators. They stopped being square in 2004 when the RE came out. This could well be a 2002 but would have to be an import i think. Unless someone has pit the RE panels and tank on an older frame.

Just had a quick look through the thread. Not right that you end up paying for some theives work. I would be careful about re stamping your own. Could end up with more problems than before if anyone finds out. A new frame and log book will be around £200. Have you asked the police if there is any kind of victims of crime compensation to cover it? Or your insurance company. Keep us posted with where you get too.

Welcome to the forum. To start with whoever borrowed your bike and turned it from pristine condition to that needs some serious seeing to! Anyway to the issue at hand. Yes the pipe coming from the exhaust is part of emissions regulations and would be needed for an MOT i believe but shouldnt have caused a problem like this. I dont know if you should block it and cant see that you should if it just goes into the airbox. Many people fit after market/ performance exhausts to these models without a problem. It is always advisable to check the mixture after changing your exhaust as most aftermarket exhaust companies reccomend up jetting. If your mixture is too lean ( too much air not enough fuel) then you'll get something like this. Could be lack of oil getting in so check your oil pump is supplying. Don't worry, you wont have to buy a new cylinder. The worst case will be that have you to rebore the cylinder. PJME is an engineering company that will do that for about £85 plus delivery charges. That will include a brand new piston kit and small end bearing. Howerver, as said before. With damage like this, parts of the piston or rings could easily have gone south and when you tried to start it again, have probably been rubbing against the bearings and seals in your crank ( not good). You could just check it and flush it out with petrol and oil but it's a risk. A bottom end rebuild will be a couple of hundred pounds at least. You need to work out why it did it in the first place though before you rebuild and run it again. If you decide it isnt worth rebuilding the engine. One option would be to buy a 2nd hand running engine on ebay and fit that. If you decide that the bike isnt worth it, you'll get a fair amount of money selling it for parts.

You say the bike appears to be revving high on it's own? I had a problem like this and it seems to have settled but still appears when the bikes being run at a contast high speed for a prolonged time. The bikes were known to get an air leak around the inlet. Run it and spray WD around them and see if the revs drop down whilst the WD40 is sealing it. I also gained huge problems when I put the carb slides in the opposite carbs so might be worth testing. Keep us updated with anything you find out and good luck, sorry i couldnt be more help.

If you'd bothered to read this thread you would have realised that there are a number of restrictions on the bike. The thread is quite detailed and has all the info you need. A number of people have put the effort into writing it, at least read it before asking for help.

So it's been a while since I updated this. The last stages of the rebuild became very rushed as a friend and myself decided to ride lands end to john o groats and back on 125's. Had to get the DT mot'd and ready for the trip. Here is how it stands now. I'm trying to get the tank decals made up and am going to respray a tank a fit the stickers to the plastics. Also will need to re spray the exhaust back to black. May or may not fit the re sprayed engine casings.

what bike, - RD350 YPVS FII how fast - Only taken it to just over 100 on the clocks where - Wales during the Kettle Club annual meet 0-60 - Don't know, not tested what bike - DT125RE 2005 how fast - 84 on the clocks where - can't remember, a local road on the flat 0-60 - never tested

I personally have not done it myself. On my RE i followed a guide that was just about earthing a wire to the frame. I'll be having a go at it soon when i put the clocks back on my 1998. Hopefully someone can tell you if you've done it all right.

Although I respect the work thats gone it to this, I have to say you are totally mad! Also you shouldnt really be selling outside the for sale section.

The powervalve set up shouldnt restrict the revs. It sounds as if the reed switch isnt completely done as that it what restricts it at krpm.

Looking good, can't wait for more pictures!

I'll give you 600 for it just because I feel sorry for you getting conned kev!

Didn't know about the extra bhp but yeah it would definitely put me off.