drewpy

pretty quiet at stafford today. OT came on his 125 and remembered his money this time lovely (and cold) day and there was about 5 of us in the end. got me a few bits N Bobs drewps

try it here http://www.newgrounds.com/portal/view/513760

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All the power of the Shadow Prime Minister liesat your command, with this great click-and-speak site http://www.speechbreaker.co.uk

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i'm not sure it will fit the "standard" type frame ( 1L9, 2A2) as the custom bikes had a bigger rake and different frame at the rear. have you tried SITO exhausts? if you need down pipes, my friend had a set made for £60 in blighty (and in stainless)

I assume you have the contactless ignition then as they have different size. It is nerve racking to do your own engine, and I'm no mechanic. I just follow the manual and observe the torque settings and follow the procedures. if you find you can't measure something, take it round to your friendly engineering shop and they should have an opinion (mine was great) people can't resist helping sometimes especially when you have made the effort in the first place!! drewps

sorted your vids DDT

meanwhile , back on the ranch......... <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value=" name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

sorry black; we are going saturday as Man City are playing sunday weather forcast is SUNNY!!

I don't have any spare covers but there are some on ebay UK the tools for changing the seals are a spring compressor ( not a car one as its too narrow to go over the cyl head) and torque wrench. you can make a compressor with a G-cramp welding a castlated bit of pipe to take out the collets like this you will need to follow the haynes manual as it gives you how to progressivly undo the head bolts to prevent warpage. I'm going to have to do mine as up.yours spotted smoke from my left side ( on a 1000 mile rebuilt engine) its a simple procedure and you need patcience and don't force anything. All i used was the haynes book to do it! drewps

just keep the same bore as the 400, unless going dual disk, then you would need a larger bore Master cyl. TBH any bike master cyl will work as all it does is push fluid pressure to the brake pistons, just in different amounts depending how many pistons need pushing hope that helps drewps

I wish I had more time-weather-bikes-money etc etc looks great there!! drewps

you need to get the brakes checked

could put pedals on 350lc's as well

to the forum. ditto the ditto on the avatar!!

http://www.megacyclecams.com/catalog/page57.pdf http://www.hagon-shocks.co.uk/main1st.htm I've seen prog front springs on ebay, try "Wurth" mainly from germany, but I'm sure you can get them in USA. HVC cycle may have them high rpm on idle is too lean a mix and either compensate by richening the idle mix on the carbs or they need a good clean( pref ultra sonic) I'd try ebay for gaskets, partsnmore do them for $45 drewps

yep you'll need to bleed the brakes. simple enough if you've already got some fluid in there. there's loads of "how to's" on interweb drewps

its an xs400E taper bearings in head stock is good. bronze bushes in swing arm hagon rear shocks progressive front springs megacycle cam reprofile also google "minton mods" its for xs650 but is good for 400's as well as for oil weep, you need to clean the engine and see where the leak is. it could be a rubber seal. drewps

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you need a good allen key and a bar extension to overpower those buggers

have you retro fitted drum brakes, so you have a bowden cable?

tell us the chassis number and we'll tell you!

keep the forks and springs together and get your allen key( this fits a bolt underneath the bottom fork leg) and quickly turn the bolt. If you are lucky it will snap undo, if your unlucky it just turns the "inner bits". you can try and compress the forks by pushing the top tube against a wall and try turning again! Failing that, another way is to get a wooden dowel ( 20mm x 500mm I think) chamfer the end by about 5mm around. you then have to take out the fork spring and whack in the dowel which should engage in a cup lower inside the fork leg (the bolt is holding this in) grip the dowel and then undo the bolt (it will be very tight) hope that helps drewps