drewpy

or the rings are worn causing the crankcase pressure to rise forcing oil up.

had a look at a translated german site and it looks like you have to change the camshafts, intakes and CDI box.

on the sohc bikes the camshaft is different and they had extra fillet restricting the carb inlets which can be cut away. the carb jetting needs to be done after the mods to compensate for the extra air flow. possibly the same goes for your dohc model (45hp in uk)

according to this site http://auction.netbikes.com.au/vjmw.php?pa...p2axbbj27v1gba2 its a DT175C

I totally stripped the engine and frame. Used PJ1 yamaha silver paint on the engine cases, which were stripped to bare metal, then baked in the oven for an hour after painting. I replaced all bearings and seals and a few electrical items, the tank i got new from ebay and had it laquerd. the frame was powder coated and all the chrome items were redone using parts from ebay as chrome and english winters don't mix. the wheels were painted with PJ1 satin black as were the switchgear and other black items. It took 2 years to do but i did most of it myself buying tools as i went along. If you have any specific things you want to know just PM me and I'll be glad to help. I took pictures as i did the restoration.

I belive a honda superdream 250N lamp fits, never tried it myself though and i would consider reducing the rear lamps to 8 watts or so to compensate for the voltage drain or you may find that the charging system can't cope. (halogen 60/55 W) you may need to fit the H4 connector as well. if you want to have the proper reflector then try http://www.pgmyamaha.com/MOCOMMAINLIST%201.xls they have a kit for the RD's which should fit the XS, I would phone first as they are very helpful. I bought a gear change shaft marked for a rd400 and it fitted my XS (you can't get these from yam any more)

I'd book 10 mins on a dyno. that will give you your settings.

is it just electric starting on the button or kick/bump starting? If its generaly a bad starter, have you checked the ususal suspects? spark plug fuel - blocked fuel delivery. do you have an inline fuel filter, i always use one as after 1300 miles i can see rust flecks from the petol pump tankscaught in the filter! charged battery? does the bike smoke when it does start, as this could mean worn valve guides thus letting oil seep into the cyl head causing spark plug to foul.

try speed and sport (yamaha top dog) for parts in usa, they should have most parts for the bike. Are you sticking with it or cutting your losses? you said you like a challenge don't forget that yamaha use a parts bin for other bikes, so rd's and other xs parts may fit.

just goes to show, many a true word said in jest

why don't you buy 2" platform boots?............ only joking, i used www.rk-leighton.co.uk/ they fitted and supplied (by me)the seat cover, reformed some of the seat foam and repaired broken grips all for £30 inc return postage they are based in Burmingham!!

i just used a new o ring. don't over tighten the petcock screws

www.nrp-carbs.co.uk/ based in victoria station, rainy city uk

was the carb cleaned by ultrasonic method, in my opinion that is the best way to get inside the drillings. try www.jrs.uk.com/ try timing the bike and check the valves have a look at your plugs to see what colour they are(sooty black rich, very white lean) they should be a tan colour. that will indicate if the carb is working

I assume that you have a separated regulator and rectifier here is a diagram that may help. I belive the later electronic regulator/rectifiers are wired slightly different, so that is where the confusion comes in. did you check your voltage regulator?

check bulb ratings and the idiot lamp on the dials.

difficult one..... maybe a valve seal leaking causing oil to run into the cylinder. after a bit the oil is passed through the exhaust and the petrol can ignite. When warm the oil hasn't got time to drain past the seal. do you need to top up the oil level much? Are the valve gaps correct? you need to do a compression and spark plug check, get yourself a helicoil insert first before you take the plug out. Then your covered

sounds like a carb problem. crud from the tanks (use an in line petrol filter) or blocked air filter or fuel tap. Not sure, but looking at a photo of the bike, you will have to take the tank off Hope that helps

I think you may need quite a bit of help on this. try here http://www.yamaha-xt500.co.uk/portal.php

easy... ebay i've even done the hard bit for you http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1979-Yamaha...sspagenameZWDVW

try this http://www.aircooled-rd.com/ forum section, page two (as at 5.05pm 24/5/06), titled wiring in kill switch? hope that helps

you havn't been doing stoppies have you? this really knackers the front forks up as it puts way too much strain on the fork tubes and wears them out pretty rapido!!

Just got back from VJMC Nabs head show near Preston UK, and received 3rd overall for best in show! As you can imagine I'm dead chuffed

far as i am aware, the sr125 is built to have 12hp, the only other way is tuning it. easier to buy a bigger bike like sr250 or sr500.