wild foamy

Welcome to the asylum... the nice nurse will be along shortly...

According to the workshop manual, there is no way to test the regulator under workshop conditions... if i can find a regulator with the same connections will it be a straight fit or does it need to be any particular specification? (Wattage, Amps, Ohms, Lightyears e.t.c) Would THIS fit?

nice, i'll give it a spark off the battery tomorrow and see if that will get a charge... if that works then i will try swapping out the regulator... (no doubt another part made from unobtanium)

BWJ: yes i tested for continuity and the reading was 0.3ohms which seems to be fine

thanks for the reply cynic, but for the purpose of testing would i need to control the primary current to DF or would it be okay to just run a cable from the positive on the battery directly to the DF terminal on the alternator and see if the battery charges? (the engine would be idling so the output should be low enough to not do any damage if unregulated... in theory), if i then get a charge i will know its the regulator that is wanked out another question, is the Rotor itself permanently magnetised? i may be able to buy a second hand rotor but i dont want it to de-magnetise in the post...

Here's the schematic if it helps: am i right in thinking that the field current ("DF" in the schematic) is supplied from the regulator?, if so then is it possible that the regulator is at fault? (is there any way to test it)

hey peeps, me again, come to pick your brains in regards to my slovak warhorse problems... basically ive narrowed down the charging problem to the alternator, more specifically the rotor, which is not magnetising as it should and therefore not generating the nescessary current to charge the battery... as i understand it the alternator rotor is not a permanent magnet, but it is an electromagnet which is magnetised using the vehicles battery, and this sems to be where my alternator is failing. now the question... Is it possible to run a cable directly from the battery to the alternator rotor to manually excite it so i can check for an output? of coarse, i could be talking complete bollocks, but any help would be appreciated as this is the only major problem that is stopping the jawa from being roadworthy...

flush the tank out to remove any gunk that may have settled in the bottom and clogged your carb strip the carb down and give all the little jets a clean out with a signle nylon bristle from your toothbrush (dont use the same toothbrush to clean your teeth though, it will taste of petrol) as that green gunk stuff will most likely have found its way into your carb and clogged the fuel jets, thus starving the engine of fuel

Hahaha, ultimate ownage

yes it will work, but keep an eye on your wiring as the loom may not be designed to carry the higher current,

thank f*ck i was born in the 90s... would have been an interesting swimming lesson

can you not seal it with epoxy resin or cyanoacrylite? (superglue), ive had to do this on a mdoel aircraft fuel tank and it worked well

whilst we're on the subject... where's Goff?

a good set of lock pliers should suffice, if not try grinding a slot into the head and use a flathead screwdriver to remove it

Welcome to the asylum, thats a nice little bike you got there, doesnt look like there's a lot to do to it is there?

i know the feeling, i dont like being in cars, i choose to ride if i can because i feel like i have direct control of the bike it could all chang ein winter, however, being able to get into my warm car with a heater... and a windscreen... and a huge soundsystem... and recaro seats... and a set of phat alloys... and a little set of fluffy dice hanging from the rear-view mirror... ford capri 1.6 laser

i've warned you before about teasing me, BWJ

i said no such thing!, perhaps he is just trying to get away from us... who could blame him, though...

i think he may still be on his holiday

Hello and welcome to the asylum

my whole childhood lays in tatters... i hope you're happy

aren't you supposed to be restricted to 33bhp for 2 years? , im sure with the power commander and K&N air filter its going to be a little more than 33, if i remember correctly the stock MT-03 is 44bhp? still its a very nice bike, my instructor on my CBT had the MT-01 with heated grips

from personal experiance, i can say that the performance "pod" air filters are more hastle than they are worth, i had one fitted to my DT50 and it caused it to run rich at mid-revs and bog down, and then run slightly lean at high RPMs