Cynic

Hang on, is that anywhere near Oregon, bloke name of Jim by any chance................

There are 2 on e-bay now search ' yamaha fz600 airbox' Sorry don't know the clickky (edit)Ahem, sorry didn't realise that the modern fazer was also an FZ dur.

NO absoloutly fix the airbox, TTS tuned my GSX years back and they ALWAYS use the airbox where possible. That means anything upto and generally including race prep they only junk it when its either too restrictive which you would be surprised to find how far an engine can be tuned before that happens. Or the engine mods require big induction mods like turbo's and such, like drag bikes with nitros , Or the bloke paying the bills say's so, Pod filters only work efficiently at flat out. The airbox acts as a buffer to pressure waves caused by wind, riding at speed and the reflections off of the carbs themselves (the same tuning that affects an exhaust affects the carbs)etc and give a pool of calm balanced air that can be fed evenly to all cylinders at an even if not low temperature and pressure. It is also much better at protecting the motor from dust, water and general crap. The greater part of the crap a motor sucks in is rubber and that really messes with the internals. By all means fit a K+N element as that will give much better airflow but keep the airbox if even remotely possible. Your bike really will thank you.

You may be better off with a breaker buying the entire front end from a bike complete, minus clocks and electrics. Rather than paying out for every bloody nut and bolt to the theiving profiteers on the bay. Be careful if you just get the forks as there may be minor but important changes between the models but as far as it goes i put a complete 98 DT125 front end on my 81 DT175 with nothing more than a set of steering head bearings and a bit of common sense.

OG i wish you would put some effort into your replies.............

Good on you, but, Snowdrops?.

rhyming

white bits

Just an idea but have you re-made the connection between the plug cap and the fat lead from the ig coil as that can get all shitty real fast and ruin your day.

Cor thats had some proper money thrown at it, those exhausts are over 500 quid without the carb work to make it run, and the wheels and....... I need to lie down.....

As gas say's. Its amazing how many people dont adjust a bike to fit them. When you are sat in your normal riding position with your fingers resting on the levers it should form a straight line up to your elbow. If it doesent you are affecting the nerves and bloodflow tto your hands.

Zaped from where? were you hanging onto the plug? Thery are all good connections arn't they not just twisted wire and gaffer tape? Have you a fresh plug to try.

Right give this a try, brown to brown, red/w to red/w and black to black but NOT ground. Now with lot 2 from the cdi orange to the coil, black and white NOT earthed and black to chassis. Does that make sense?

What have you done with the black and white wire, as that goes to the kill switch and if its earthed then, no spark. The CDI generates ALL the power it needs from the mag, the ig system is completely self contained so if its a bush basher you can sling most of it, battery included.

Its a TDR250 bit of a marmite bike at the time, sensible practical chassis with a very unsensible and not really practical engine, that sums it up really sort of early supermoto/adventure bike. But with a 2 gallon tank 30mpg and an engine that will pull 2500rpm in top but goes nuts at 6000 through 10000 they didnt really sell. Around 2000 all told as i understand. Trouble is Yam's build quality wasn't at its best in the late eighties and walking past with a bag of chips will damage the finish. Oh yeah the forks, They are 38mm across and 790mm long from spindle. Best of luck finding a clean straight pair.

I know its a coorker. There are slight wear marks from boots on the frame and bits like headlight brackets and stuff have wear marks from cables resting on them which makes me think it hasn't been restored at all, even the shock works fine if a bit soft but thats jap spec for you. It'll be set for a 60 kg rice runner rather than a 14 stone me. I keep checking to see if its been a racer or such but none of the teltales are there and its mint, the tyres on it are dated 2001 the year it came off the boat, ( and yes they are going in the bin). 3 owners including me in the UK and 9000m I can only summise its been a sunny sunday toy its entire life. I'm chuffed but its took nearly 6 months of looking.

That 56 led whatsit must take some juice it sounds like its drawing 5-10 amps thats like 100watts. I can't believe this, all the shit you have had to put up with recently, chucking the bike down the road, fixing it up and you get a shitty on cos of a flat.???

No mate i've seen enough tat at bike rallies, that is a long way from tacky.

Looks like you got a little over excited there, you did mention a good clear out........ Welcome along....

Can't see why it shouldnt generate something. As to magnetism on the rotor i cannot say but the fact it has a coil winding in it suggests its not a permanant magnet as there are some magnetic contacts on there by the looks of it. As said by barkwindjammer, you have done the basics and checked the continuity of all this. Especially as there will be a couple of sliprings/armature and some bushes somewhere in there. All weak spots.

Stop If you are blowing a 20 amp fuse with just the indicators there is something VERY wrong with the wiring. Indicators 2*21w lamps plus a bit for the relay and losses say 50w on a 12v system thats 4 amps give or take. Indicators 2*10w lamps plus a bit for the relay and losses say 30w on a 12v system thats 2.5 amps give or take. See my point, you have blown a 20, i repeat BLOWN a 20 amp fuse that needs in the region of 100+ amps. You have a dead short in the indicator system somewhere and it needs to be found.

As to testing it God knows, i'm sure you can its just how. Looking at the drw'g i'd say the regulator controls the primary voltage and as such the magnetism in the armature to control the output voltage to acceptable levels. In theory if you put a voltage across DF and run the motor it should charge then all you need is a way to control said output.

Its only my opinion mind but yes, you have the sexy rear end and then hidden it away. Where the exhaust bracket is right at the bottom makes the can look heavy and unbalanced too. Can't really fault it otherwise from the pic's, must be a real pasion. I feel a bit of a shit dissing it and it seems like i'm being picky but you asked for honest opinions and thats mine.

Looks great the colour really works but the can REALLY needs cutting down, that rear end is screaming out for a stubby.