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Wiring problems


lauragilmour
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Despite being a trainee electrician this has got me in a pickle soo everything was fine and then I went on a nice long ride this after noon and now when I press/ pull the break it lights up as it should then it's delayed turning the light off, also when I have my lights on the back light just doesn't light up at all, it only started today, the other day i gave bike connections a check over and everything was solid soo what's your opinions on what it could be? Loose wires or something else?:/

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the rear light has the bulb blown? or Possibly a loose wire or faulty earth somewhere , bulb gone would be my bet , as for the brake light it could be one of the switches sticking or water got into it ,

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As per Mervins answer.

Filament gone in the stop & tail bulb and one of the switches is sticking on. i would guess the rear brake one. From the side of the bike, press the rear brake with your hand and you should see the switch being pulled a spring connected to the pedal. When you release the brake the switch should go back to immediately.

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could be the brake shoe cam getting stiff (rear wheel), give the operating arm a wiggle back and forward, it should move back (rearwards) quickly without you having to push it, unless of course corrosion is binding it up...a common problem in winter.

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As above, first port of call is your rear light bulb, vibration and usage causes one or both of the filaments to fail, my XJ had two dual-filament bulbs in the rear light for redundancy, so if one blew you had another to last until you could replace it, on small bikes this isnt usually possible due to their compact build.

as for the second one, the others pretty much hit it on the head, could need a bit of copperslip on the rear brake cam.

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laura

My boy rode a sr125 through 2 winters and we (I) regularly had to take the rear wheel off remove the brake cam, clean it up and regrease it. His did gunge up, so as stated above that may well be the reason for the delay in the light going off. Try the front brake first, if no delay, check the rear

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adjusted the little thingy (like a spring this that attaches to the break pedal) and now the light works however when the lights are on the back light still doesnt work, ive checked all the connections soo im a little unsure

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Got to agree that a bulb required for the second fix.

The bulb has 2 filaments, one for tail and one for stop. You need a stop & tail one from Halfrauds 21/12w 12v. the bottom metal part will have 2 pins that are offset (one higher than the other) so you can only fit it one way.

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These switches are notoriously unreliable...... if WD40 and adjustment make it better but not 100%...change the switch

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This bike has got me fed up I've sorted all the little faults like lights but this last few weeks the bike has broke down and everytime I think it's fine it's not, basically it loses all power you wiggle the wires on the battery and it starts, I've changed the plus and minus wires to the battery, I've bought a new battery, I've checked the connections replaced anything corroded and time and time again it runs fine and then it decides to die, it was fine until the slight accident the bike had but now I just don't know spoke to some people and they don't know either so any ideas

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it cant be that bad Laura dont get disheartened, you mentioned wiggling the wires helps which could indicate that it is earthing somewhere (wires chafing on the frame perhaps) causing the electrical feeds to various parts of the bike to be disrupted.

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I'm no mechanic, only got my own '94 SR experiences. I've got something similar happening to me at the moment and I've sourced it to the stop switch earlier today. Tomorrow I'll be taking it off and cleaning what I assume is going to be rust inside in the hope to solve it.

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Basically sometimes it comes on and works fine then it dies like nothing works at all, I've got a guy who knows a bit about bikes coming to have a little look at it tomorrow, thanks for the suggestions and hopefully it'll be someththing that's been suggested

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the FZ did that and it turned out to be the fuse box connections, even though they felt secure.

I also had a fuse melt but connection was made by arcing across the fuse :eusa_doh:

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Went in the fuse box and it was all extremely lose done a multimeter test and there's power going to the fuse but there's no power coming from the fuse tightened it all up and there's power going to and from and the bike seems fine, gonna go for a long drive today and hopefully that's that sorted thank you for the suggestions it means a lot guys!!

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