jimmythehat

dont bother looking at fuses if left side works cause they both work off one fuse for indicater system, most likely blown bulbs or wiring fault to rh side , poss switch fault also, may not be sending live feed to system. the live wires on rh side are green and they are brown on left side. the black wires are the earth wires, let me know what you find. you need 12 v going to indicater when switched. and also 12v returning back to earth.

brake bleeding can be frustrating, sometimes i end up reverse bleeding the system, close off bleed nipples and fill reservior, make sure reservior is positioned above the hose of system so its at highest point for air to come up too.then you pump the brake lever in and out about half way and you should get bubbles as you do this,, it can take long time !! but if all else fails then worth a go.just keep pumping only half a stroke at a time, sometimes you only need to pull lever in a lil bit and you have air pissing out. you can also clamp off each brake hose one at a time , this will tell you where air is,, if lever goes hard if clamp rh side off then thats where air is, if clamp both side and lever hard then air in both sides etc,,, if your bleeding the normall way make sure the bars are turned to left lock so master cyl is at very highest point. good luck, and time will tell.

you got a live wire touching another wire somewhere.what wires are you trying to connect to batery?

hi dude, have look at variator rollers and clutch shoes for wear or damage,have you got good compression??

hi vic. yes you do need it to be set length or you wont be able to turn lock to lock or it may foul on something.ohlins are def the best,, you get what you pay for....

hi,sounds like you have two wires touching each other or maybe live from battery is loose like switching ignition on and off. check all your wires and connections inc the battery terminals

hi , you dont have abs , and it doesnt have slipper clutch either, when you brake real hard the rear tyre wants to lift off floor slightly so it skips in the air.watch any moto gp bike race as they have this all the time,,no sure about the clicking nose, ?? poss head bearings are slightly loose ?

hi, when you say the battery has 12.6 volts thats when bike is not running so that is normal. do you have an alarm on bike?have you looked at main fuse? the green 30 amp one next to starter relay..check your battery terminals are tight,you may have bad connectoin / broken wire to ignition switch .

sounds like you set valve clearances too tight, are you totally sure they are spot on?? did you replace the plug with the correct one?? they have different heat ranges etc.

sorry im asuming your bike is a scooter?? if it is then the belt and rollers etc are all under the long cover on lh side of engine.rollers you should lok for flat spots , belt shoulld be checked for obvious wear and cracking,the clutch is basically like brake shoes they wear down and work less efficiently.

LAY BIKE OVER ON LH SIDE SO END OF BOLT IS EASY TO GET TO THEN SPIN THE NUT BACK ON SO IT JUST IS LEVEL WITH END OF THREADS, RUN SOME WD 40 OR PENETRATING OIL DOWN THE BOLT AND FIND YOUR FAV HEAVY HAMMER ,BE CAREFUL NOT TO HIT ANYTHING BUT THE NUT , EVEN USE HEAT ON THE CENTRE OF SWINGARM WHERE BOLT GOES THROUGH, HEAT WILL EXPAND THE METAL IN THE SWINGARM HOPEFULLY RELEASING THE BOLT..

sounds like your running around one gear to high, the bikeis a revvy sports bike not a pan european, try the same ride but in lower gear,

hi, prob best thing i can find is a thing called (rsend)..... its a universal num plate and indicator unit , goes on undertrays etc, you may be able to fit one of these on your back end with a bit of cutting around of old tail piece,,

i never heard of that mod but i know people used to fit new pulser timing rotors, they used to be about 40 pound, and they alter the ignition timing to give better midrange and pick up,they fit on end of crankshaft on rh side,

adam,, take off the seat and try start the bike. .. can you hear the starter relay clicking??if no clicki when you press starter button then either relay is bust or wiring to button..

HMMMM,thats a bummer.maybe an undertray i s only option ?? i will see what i can find out.

sounds spark reated. look at plug caps and coils and ht leads, often the caps break down on these,,

its all in the end can my friend..down pipes make next to no difference in noise.

sounds like you have flat battery, get it fully charged then re try, if battery is more than few yrs old you may need to replace it, make sure you get good quality one like yuasa.

hi, you need to wire the negative into a good earth wire on the bike , any will do, you need a switched live feed for the positive wire, there is a switched live wire to the front brake switch, and there are plenty of earth wires around the headstock/clocks area,make sure the grips onyl work when ignition is switched on..

hi mate, your digi indicater should come with 7/8 coloured wires , these need to be hardwired into the bikes loom, there are no sub looms .

got an alarm on it? also side stand switches cause this type of fault, try starting with stand up and clutch in. let me know..

forget the rest r&g are best! they reasoably easy to fit and look best by far,i have fitted loads in my time, do it properly with nice indicators and and if they led ones you will need new indicater relay to slow flash rate down, shout me if you need any help.

you have a clutch swith and a side stand switch , you can by pass theese with a split pin to see which is causing the fault, good luck shout if no joy..

hi make sure you have plenty of fresh fuel in the tank and you will only need to use choke first time you start bike and then only for a minute or so,sounds like fuel tap is blocked, is it a on/off/prime tap?or does it have reserve position too?