jimmythehat

wish i had never asked now,, no im not about to leave the missus as i love her and we going to have our first child in 8 weeks time, was a serious question, but hey , sorry i bothered.

hi, my missus wont come near a bike but i love to have a good pillion for stabilty through the bends, is there any girls out there who love to be on the back of a r1 on the odd sundays etc? must live reasonably close , ie surrey area. i often ride out in kent,surrey, sussex,hampshire areas.

i dont remember seeing a torx screw ,,, u dont need to remove it, are you doing fork seals or something..

hi, i have been servicing yamahas for 16 yrs in various dealers, i work from home at weekends, if your interested i can service your bike then get it mot ed for you?, a general service will be roughly 100 pounds plus parts. this doesnt include valve clearances though, to check those it wil be an extra50/60 pounds, general service includes oil and filter change, spark plug change, clean air filter , replace brake fluids, replace coolant,grease and lubricate all brake pins and pivots. clean adjust and lube chain, if you want anything outside of this please feel free to contact me,, jim ,,

hi, you need a 6 or 8mm long reach allen key , prefereably one you can use on a air gun to spin the bolts out, this will allow the tops and bottoms to be separated,

hi, there are a ton of things u can do, easiest is dyno jet kit and hi flow air filter,, next would be changing gearing and dropping a chain size , ie from 530 or 525 down to a 520/525. with one tooth lower on front or two bigger at rear, a lighter duty chain will allow higher power transfer to rear wheel, im not sure if a scorpion end can is actually much good, ideally you need to run a full system to allow good gas flow , i would go for a dyno jet kit with bmc filter and drop a tooth on front sprocket, this will put smile on your face for around 140/160 pounds,,

hi, i would like to try help. need to see a piccy of the hole and area though really, can you upload one ?

ok, well dunnies have a very sharp profile that makes the bike uneasy in straight line and drop quick into corners,do you feel like the front is gripping well under you? does it feel like it runs wide through corners?if so try dropping the yokes down the forks by 5mm this will put more weight on front tyre and help hold a tighter line through the corners, i always found the best way to start set up is by holding bike upright and using both hands to push down firmly on the tank just in front of fuel cap, if you can get some one to help you do this they or you need to watch the bike react to u pushing down firmly and quickly,, the second person can see if front or back is firmer than the other, its best to get the bike reacting the same front and back, once you have done that then set harder or softer as you require , but match front and back the same so bike moves as one,,

hi there, you cant go wrong with one of castrols 10/40 oils, dont bother with fully synth as these often upset clutches,,

hi there, how does bike feel to you with standard set up?? how do you ride? i always found the front was too soft on early rs ,, what tyres are you running ? what pressures ? all these will have effect on how bike handles. also have you adjusted ride hight front and rear if your tall etc?

[hi, these suffer from gear shift shaft springs snapping,is the gear lever all floppy ? other than that you prob looking at a gearbox strip to find fault. easy job when you know the bike..

does it make the same noise on a paddock stand out of gear ? does it whine while on side stand revving bike up? if yes you have an interal fault, either clutch ,gearbox or crank related,,, let me know,,, if you wanna chat call me 07970918855

hi there, u need to use a 10 /40 weight oil, not 20/50. i have seen many gearbox faults on r 1s mostly down to wheelies and burnouts etc, oil wise go for castrol if you can, dont worry about going for a fully synthetic oil, they are waste of money,, check free play at clutch lever , you need to be able to pull back lever softly about 8/10 mm before feeling a resistance, this should leave you a gap of 3/4 mm at holder end of lever,can u change gears at fair speed with out clucth? does it still go in and out properly?? if you want more info call me ,, 07970918855.

how much compression are you getting? ideally you wANt around 200 psi with throttle wide open. are plugs getting wet? is spark a good bright blue colour ? is fuel stale? often bikes are hard to start after a few weeks of old fuel.

] you need to lift the tank, then there are about 6 small phillips screws holding airbox lid down, also there may be a ten mm, bolt at front of airbox which has to come out too.

[ sounds to me like you have damaged wires or damaged pick up coil , its positioned on rh side of crank,

have you tried r&g ? ask for dez, he is top bloke , very helpfull. tell him jim from moto select refered you..

what bike is it my friend? are you completely completely sure you have removed all bolts etc, if so a rubber mallet on a solid thick area of the cases will help shock the cases apart

the biggest difference in tyres these days is pretty much above the eyebrows,,, if you know what i mean.... if you want all out grippy fun then look at the track, ie stuff like metzeler race tec tyres are super grippy and you will have your knee on the deck piece of piss, at the end of the day there is little in it , just get your head round riding the tyre , dont let tyres rule you!!,,

sounds to me your battery is dead,take it off and trickle charge it over nite, if still no good then replace it, they have average life of two yrs,,

you can often clean the calipers and pistons up with out replacing seals, or can remove seals and scrape out all white powder and refit with red rubber grease

hi yes there are also bolts all way around the crankcase they all have to come out,

hi that is a little high for oil consumption really, possible valve guide seal/ piston rings are worn and letting oil past,, maybe ask your dealer to do compression test to see if rings are worn, does bike start easy? the closer to 200 psi on compression check the better,,,basially if all very similar approx 170 /180 psi then thats cool.

you can buy ngk plug caps from places like deemon tweeks , they are direct replacement parts, try them and see how you go..

do you have anything magnetic on your keyring? or live near a radio mast etc? all these can disturb the imobiliser system and confuse it.