jimmythehat

sounds like tiny bit of cam chain rattle to me, you can hear these bikes have a faint ticking noise at low revs this is the injectors firing.

i think its, roughly .0.28 to 0.32. thou.

hi, sounds odd that a mot can cause you a fueling problem, ????? did they service it too? they may have trapped your fuel tank breather pipes under the tank. or poss choke is stuck on?

hi they come set from the factory, if you have droped one etc then 0.7/0.8 mm is bang on.

clutch switch and side stand switch? they both knock out the spark., kill switch?? is ecu recieving signal from pulse generator?

what happens when you press starter button? clicking? does engine spin? nothing at all? is your battery charged up? go through all your fuses including the 30 amp main fuse , the green one. let me know...

hi, take it back to the dealer who fitted pads, they prob didnt clean the piston or seals when they fitted your pads,

hi, take the spark plug out of the front cylinder and see if its wet or dry.., if wet then you have no spark , if dry then no fuel.

hi, take the spark plug out of the front cylinder and see if its wet or dry.., if wet then you have no spark , if dry then no fuel.

would love to ride safe my ol mate but sitting here looking out window cause im on a ban lol. have you tried replacing starter relay? also check starter fuse and main 30 amp fuse, the green one,

yes the springs hold shoes in place, when you take the bowl shaped metal cover off you will see them ,if you didnt remove this cover after the belt shreded then its poss the clutch is ful of belt bits making it slip///

is it a click or a rattle?? if its a clicking noise then you possibly have bent a selector fork in the gear box which is now holding two gears close to each other making them click together as they go around, does the noise go away when riding and not in neutral?? does it change gear smoothly?? hope fully you have not damaged your g box cause its a full engine strip on those the remove gears , shop will charge you around 16 hrs labour plus parts......

start out by swapping dunlops off with b stone or pirelli. dunnies have had their day. i would not change the profile either,,going to lower profile will square off your front tyre making it feel flat , personally i would got for a 120/70/17 profile front tyre and standard size rear, and run 34 psi front and 36 in rear, if you want bike to turn in faster then drop the yokes down the forks by 6/8 mm and see how that feels,

ok, well start off by setting suspension back to standard, yam set bikes up for 11/12 stone guys, what do you weigh? try 36 psi in each tyre, what model dunnies are they? dunlops are notorious for (drop in). ie they feel like they want to drop you onto knee at every corner,your best off going for a rounded profile pr of tyres like b stones bt14/15/16. or pirelli corsa.

hi, you get what you pay for in this game, did are great chains and x ring is poss marginally better , if you look after your chain correctly they differ very little, you need to clean it once a weekproperly and lube it after a ride when the chain is hot so the lube soakes into the rollers and between the o rings etc.

you need to remove the metal cover by taking off the small nut prob 14/17 mm, when this is off the whole lot should come off, thn you un hook the shoes ,

its a shame i cant get my hands on your bike and be face to face etc, its hard to picture what is actually infront of you .

hi vic. if i was you i would run ohlins fork springs and new oil in your forks also poss drop yokes down the forks 6/8 mm. what tyres do you run? what pressures?what sizes?

the shoes should have 5/6mm of material on them , if they look warn then they most prob are..they not too expensive,

dude you dont have full on slipper clutch, you have a presure release sprung clutch , thats why it hops and skips,any way that dont matter , rear wheel hoping and skipping under hard breaking is perfectly normal,the clicking maybe brake pads moving around in calipers or the forks juddering.

never heard of bike understeering in some corners and not others, that dont make sense,your most likely doing something different , best thing you can ever do when cornering is always look all the way through and out of the bend never look at kerb!!!!

it will spark unless you take off the neg wire before doing it.that is the ht coil in the picture , your bike only has one .neutral light switch sounds faultly,they work by going to earth, if switch done work then wont earth etc.it sparks cause the frame is the earth , this is normal. where does the negative wire from battery go????

ok, the clutch shoes are under the rear part of the drive system where the belt goes on at the back, you need to take the other metal cover piece off and clutch shoes are under that, they are like brake shoes there are nornally three of them held on with springs. there is a large spring which holds pressure for hole lot , these also break sometimes , if the clutch slips then the belt will not drive the rear wheel. if you start and run bike on the stand does the real wheel spin? the only other thing that comes to mind is its not changing gear or is stuck in a high gear .. there are some lil gears in the rear of the drive unit, sometimes they break or jam up..

the wire looks like it goes from the pos terminal through a fuse onto the neg terminal?? this looks odd to me,

that looks wrong, take the small wire with the red tag bit off the negative and put it on the positive, it looks like its a fused wire so it needs to be on positive terminal., when ever you do any thing with battery take the negative wires off first,