pilninggas
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Posts posted by pilninggas
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Are you sure you need to take it to a yamaha dealer to check for stored error codes?
Most efi yamahas allow you to enter diagnostic mode via the dash; cant remember off of the top of my head, but holding both dash buttons down for 10 seconds and turning the ignition on should get you in.
Getting a view of the official service manual for you machine will help.
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I usually come off of a feed to the brake light switch. if it is less than an amp (1000mA), i come straight off. If more I use a relay. Always works for me.
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All these big yams have the solenoid on a large cable within 6" of the battery, should be pretty easy to find.
They dont have a bendix system used on car starter motors. Usually swapping in a new solenoid is about 15 minutes work.
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i buy that in 20L cans. Best value way to buy a JASO MA standard bike oil. Hasn't caused any issues (not that i would expect it too anyway, most oil hype is nonsense).
It did work out about £3 cheaper to buy it from them via the bay, not sure if it still does.
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Have you accidentally stuck a bmw badge on it? I find vehicles with bmw on them seem to have indicators that dont work....
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23 minutes ago, drewpy said:
I got some copaslip type stuff from proctor and gamble, had it for a few years and its seems really good.
used on all my bikes since 2006
not on the tdm, fairing off, cooling system out then the cam box can come off.
as its a 270' crank tdc is ok on one then its a guess on t'other. I used cable ties on the chain and sprockets, but they still slipped
To be honest every bike ive done with bucket and shim, has been fairings off, coolant drop, sometimes air-injection off etc.
it's the nature of the beast.
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I've done bucket and shim valve jobs quite a few times, it's not actually ever as bad as people think. It's just about being methodical.
A pain about the exhaust studs, but again it's almost to be expected with anything over 15 years old. I tend to use ceramic grease on all that stuff now, on reassembly, it works even better than copper slip imo.
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Just now, Keith Higgins said:
It was running good didn't drive it for about 4 weeks but started it every day new plugs new fuel pump.i don't think the pump is power
Does the pump tick when the ignition is turned on for a few seconds?
Was the pump connected properly when installed? were the contacts clean and good on the brown (?) connector to the pump?
a multimeter or 12v led would show if the pump is getting 12v when ign is on.
Did you change the pump or did someone else do it?
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Does it turn over?
Can you smell fuel at the exhaust?
Are the spark plugs known?
How and when did it last run?
Does it have fuel in it?
You need to provide more information, theres probably upto 50 different variables that might be stopping it running, the usual process is to work through a fault finding sequence.
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technically the first post should be in the newbs intro forum. Go and intro yourself!
Love these little mt03s, yam will sell tons. Not sure what handlebar cores are? do you mean bar end weights?
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Carb'ed yams with electric fuel pumps usually have a fuel filter after the pump. ~It is worth inspecting this and replacing if it is blocked. Any generic inline filter will do (a motor factor will have something close on the shelf for less than a fiver), I replace them every couple of years as a routine. Also the fuel entry to the carbs may have a filter 'sock' inside the inlet pipe. It is worth removing and cleaning.
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Those aussies sure know how to make a V8 vehicle.
@Alexasigno get one bought......
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1 hour ago, Shropshire dan said:
Arh fair enough I think plastics wiring etc will all be interchangeable
plastics are not interchangeable that i am aware (maybe mudguard). Wiring is not the same either, but could be made to fit.
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14 hours ago, Shropshire dan said:
My old man has the Tcat I think the Thunderace model are identical except the engine being a 1000cc.
whilst there are many common parts the tcat and tace are substantially different. A tace engine is significantly wider 40-50mm approx than the 600cc engine.
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yeah just remote balance pipes. much needed too. the fzr1000 with the same engine design doesn't have them and it's a pig to get to the spigots.
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the answer is in your thread title. you need to earth to the frame, extending the cables if you have to. earthing through the forks is a bad idea, the forks are joined to the frame via the headstock bearing which will have intermittent resistivity.
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if it was running okay and then wasn't check the coils/leads/connections first, you may well get a good spark out in free air, but the spark may not be so good in the pressure of a charged cylinder - the coils may provide a bright spark in front of you but go weak inside of the cylinder and it's hard to replicate that (for the price of 2 coils, if of unknown history it is often worth replacing). Do not fiddle with the carbs until you are 100% sure the ignition is doing it's job properly (you can swap the coils over to see if on coil is dropping out under load). The carbs are complex and tend to go off sharply if not used. Only start on the carbs once the ignition is given the all clear.
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1 hour ago, 125fightingmachine said:
hit the nail on the head there vario! Sounds about right.. Will take the side cover off over the next couple of days. Cheers for all the help
p.s. She's still stuck
you certainly won't get a spark unless the engine turns over, the system for generating a spark relies on the engine to have rotation. no rotation = no spark.
keep us informed, would love to know what has happened to it.
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Sounds like lack of lubrication. Take a look and see if it has any oil in it.
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22 hours ago, Variomatic said:
Could be worse, a close friend of mine wanted to adjust the injection on his BMW K75 (At least i think it was the K75, definitely a 3 cylinder weird one), he found out the hard way you have to RTFM before doing it, turns out you DO NOT touch the butterfly adjuster screws, just the fuel/air mix screw. This is because they're sealed with epoxy from the factory and should never, ever, ever under and circumstanced be mucked with.
What did he do? He fucked with the butterfly adjuster and had to to replace the entire throttle body
A lot of stuff now doesn't require you to adjust the butterfly linkage screws, instead there are airbleed screws that allow you to increase or reduce the volume of air allowed into the cylinder.
I'm surprised he had to replace the bodies, I'd have whipped 'em off bench balanced them and then bunged them back on and then done it correctly with the bleed screws.
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I'm not sure what set you have, I have the cheapo ones with 4 gauges mounted on a blue/green steel plate. The gauges are decent enough, but the hose supplied with them was utter rubbish. I replaced my hoses years ago, after it perished away to nothing.
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MT07 Engine warning light on closed throttle deceleration!
in Yamaha Workshop
Posted
If it is happening in the close throttle position, it does point to throtttle position issues. All the other inputs are basically not sampled in the close throttle position.
Fortunately they are not fly by wire, so it's just a regular TPS fitted to the throttle body.
It could also be something very spurious and not directly related to the efi system, such as a reg/rec going out or even a battery in terminal decline, so make sure lots of basic checks are carried out before new parts are thrown at it.
oh by the way: