pilninggas
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Posts posted by pilninggas
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you've already done a lot of diagnosis, know that there is no spark limits the range of the problem hugely. eliminating sidestand switch, angle sensor, clutch switch is usually the first place id look for no spark, ecus are generally robust (as you have likely found out). are you sure it hasnt got an immobiliser? i know american bikes dont [god knows why] have them, but pretty much everywhere else does. you can buy immobiliser bypass units for not much. If you are 100% there is no immob maybe there is damage to the loom (burnt or mechanical damage). Id be doing continuity tests from the negatives wires of the injectors to the same connector at the ecu.
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9 hours ago, NE0 said:
The purpose of the "wiggly ring" is to keep the lower ring central, taking up the free space (regardless of how much space you perceive there to be!) and keeps the ring central and equi-distant all around.
Just because the original rings don't have them is no basis to leave them out.
You may find that the original ring is a little wider in its cross section thereby not needing them, whereas the newer ring may be that little bit smaller to enable the 'wiggly ring to sit behind it!! Manufacturers don't include them for fun or as an 'optional extra' after all their R&D.
When I did my engine , i put them in as supplied..... If l had left them out and for whatever reason I wasn't happy with the performance ....I wouldn't want to strip it ALL down again just to put them in!!
Good point, well made. I just put one of the expanders behind the lower ring [they are sat on the dining table]. It clearly takes up a small amount of play and keeps the ring more concentric. As it is zero hassle to fit them, i put them in.
Thanks Neo.
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Yes. Just freshening up the top end. Suz's fiches do not show that ring and the original pistons dont have them. Wont bother with them.
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10 minutes ago, Cynic said:
Goes on behind the lower piston ring, honestly I don't know what it does, seen it a few times on 2 strokes I have blown u...… er serviced! over the years.
Bit of extra spring maybe, thermal gap, dunno.
The opposite extreme on the daughters scoot, that only has one piston ring.
Ta. I thought it might be an 'expander' for the lower ring.
Funny as there isn't one on either of the existing pistons. I'm gonna leave them out.
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Can someone tell me what the 'wiggly' ring is for in a piston kit?
like the one below on the top right:
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53 minutes ago, Cynic said:
Yesssss forum discussion. Not been one of these for ages.
The way i see it current is the measure of energy, the energy after the above example has to be less due to the energy expended as heat.
One side of the heated grips will have less energy than the other, incoming side from the action of heating needing energy. My theoretical grips have 96watts, that's work done, power, current drawn and radiated as heat. If the output from the grips was the same as the incoming that's grips heated without using any energy.
How does volt drop figure due to load and resistance. If you powered a light bulb through 10 miles of lighting flex there would not be enough energy left to light the bulb.
Newton versus Kirchhoff. Kirchhoff is talking about a very specific point in a circuit. Not the whole circuit including load and losses.
Purely on experience switching post load needs less capacity and results in smaller switches being needed.
you cant treat whole parts of a circuit as a node using Kirchoff's. Quite normal to do so, as Finnerz says current flow is conserved and measurable at any point in a path.
If you think about the long piece of flex, the potential difference at that distance would not be able to drive a current flow (the resistivity would be too high) - you might get microamps of flow [DC has other effects that occur over long distance that arent always desirable). It wouldn't be that there would be energy to light the bulb, there wouldn't be a measurable and usable flow to allow any conversion of energy.
What you have to remember is horns, heated grips, bulbs are all electrical devices which are specifically designed to convert electrical energy into other forms (sound, heat and light).
You can switch a DC circuit anywhere - general convention is that you do it at the most positive part of the circuit, automotive circuits buck this by switching close to earth. As you stated mains AC is different mainly because the Lives is alternating between a positive and negative potential and there is a risk that any thing which is connected could create a dangerous potential difference, hence equipotential bonding.
2 minutes ago, Cynic said:So why have a fuse block with 5a 10 a and 20 a fuses, by that line with 30a of load why do the fuses not pop.
The current in the wiring of my house should be the same as the secondary of the step down transformer that feeds my estate then?
I know im 20 years, er more like 30 out of date on the math, I just cant see it.
Not sure i get the first question.
The second though is like this: the substation transformer that feeds you estate (and probably others) has 3 live lines out each out of phase by 120 degrees. A group of houses will get a live line each so the transformer, so the windings in the transistor will drive the current for all those houses in that group. Typical house in very typical conditions drawing several amps (between 2-20A unless cooker or electric shower on), so it's a summation (Kirchhoffs) of the current draws of all the houses.
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6 minutes ago, Cynic said:
Electrical principles mate, its bad on AC systems, well blody lethal really. On DC automotive systems it reduces the load on the switch and reduces voltage loss to the device your switching as well as reducing arcing within the switch.
Switch a 10A dc load (heated gips say) on the live side your switching a 10A resistive load. Switch it neutral side and maybe 8 A have been burned up doing the heating so you only need a switch capable of 2A load to switch 10A, its not that literal but that's the logic to it.
Well I have to disagree, but current is the same throughout the circuit (Kirchoff's Law). It's a legacy of automotive electrics to switch to earth - I think it was because having both sides of the switch at a potential of zero when it the contacts are closed causes fewer malfunctions.
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I'm confused. Isnt the soundbomb 12v? Isnt the feed from the loom also 12v? There is no difference in voltage.
Like Cynic, I would relay it however, as the current draw will be larger.
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How did you test your battery? measuring the voltage across the terminals only tells a small part of the story.
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The front shocks on the 535 are pretty soggy generally. New springs and oil would be a start.
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Todtnau and Titisee (lol)
Feldbergpass [the legengary part of the B500]
A lot of Swabia is good. The roads around Albstadt and back towards Stuttgart are amazing and not well known - G-Earth is worth looking to see the climbs and decents and find the hairpins. Eg. Gosheim and the Lemberg and the road to Lichtenstein castle.
Go over the Vosges too. The Route de Ballons is as good - i did it once in the snow - got turned around at 4000ft by some Elsassien forestry guy who must have thought i was nuts.
+ the wooden footbridge on the Rhine. +there is also a great biker cafe not far from the Hohentwiel, but youll need to google for it.
Germany has some many awesome roads and many are not well known to UK riders. Lots of hairpins in wooded districts with little traffic.
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Wales has that affect on people.
From one iconic motorcycle to another. The vmax is a pussycat though!
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not sure of this helps:
https://bikez.com/motorcycles/yamaha_rs_100_1975.php
looks like haynes is wrong.
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photo?
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Why not introduce yourself in new members?
The R125 is very popular. Yamaha took styling queues from it's sports bike range for the design of the bodywork. They have also updated it at reasonable intervals, avoiding it becoming staid like the CBR125.
As with any bike you view check the VIN plate has not been tampered with. Check for crash damage [imo minor marks are normal] but things replaced with gleaming new parts should set alarm bells ringing. Always ask if it has been dropped. And qualify this with 'at what speed?'. Also HPI it. Some kids buy them on finance and then discover their apprenticeship wont cover the payments and try to sell them on. You'll be lumbered with the finance if you buy it. Some people may also put damaged repaired bikes back on the road [nothing wrong with this if done with scruples] with out declaring to potential buyers the previous 'write off'.
The earlier ones were a bit fragile reliability wise, not helped by attempts to tune. Anything after 2012 should be better, but make sure it's had regular oil changes, has been cleaned and check wheel bearings, if it has done more than 12k miles. Avoid anything with modifications, they may be tempting but if not done correctly they may shorten the life of components.
I'd get an insurance quote to. These R125s, due to their popularity with idiots and thiefs is quite a lot more than some other 125s.
I like that they have brought new blood to motorcycling, i dislike the new price, it's obscene.
Edit: also notice at the bottom of the ad, there are links to the MT125. Look at those too.
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5 hours ago, Tommy xs said:
Any idea on location yet
how about tour de Liverpool,
Merv my scouse mates can’t wait to meet you
you’ll get to experience that great Merseyside sense of humour, ok you’ll probably have to walk home but hey it’s that one trip of a lifetime you’ll never forget.
Seriously though I think someone suggested the Lake District while we were away, that would get my thumbs up. A bit nearer for the Jimmy & Blackhat too
Always like a trip to the 'Pool. Never taken a bike there though....
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ive got to stop picking my nose! lol
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Great vid/
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4 hours ago, drewpy said:
that narrow road with mud in the middle
Soft shandy drinking northerners.
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Im home now too. The usual post weekender ablutions and tidy up. Pretty wet on the way home [perfect as far as I am concerned].
Nice to meet old friends and new faces.
We managed - bar a glitch - to stay together throughout - hopefully the pace was on-point. Always a win, when no one falls off or drops their steed. Getting up the Vale of Ewyas to Gospel without hindrance was spot on, i doth my cap to Slice doing on the FJR.
We do need to try to do 2 a year if poss. I do like Derbyshire as a standard as it's central and those roads are ace.
The NC returned 87mpg overall - i need to rag it harder....
I dont have any photos, thanks for putting yours up Drewps.
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my ETA is 630ish.
see ya then.
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High pressure coming in from BoB. TF.
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21 hours ago, drewpy said:
What time are we setting off for the ride on Saturday?
1000 with breakfast 1035ish at Roadhouse - your mates can meet us there.
6 hours ago, Cynic said:Worthy side note. I have been delivering in Wales a bit of late and I have to say the roads are really well maintained.
Some are a bit small for my truck but I cannot wait to try them on the bike.
Honestly you can feel the difference literally as you cross the border.
Some of the roads are shite - as much variation as England tbh
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1 hour ago, Cynic said:
Looking forward to it, even better I thought it was still a couple of weeks away, realised I had fri/mon booked off. Yay.
Hopefully my gas guzzler wont complicate things, unless were being pretty boring 70-75 miles is all I will get from a tank. In its defence that is chasing 40mpg, in happy mode 20mpg is also very possible. Ahem. Can't wait.
loads of places to fill up on the route.
+for clarity, it's this weekend!
my germany trip
in Events, Rideouts & Trackdays
Posted
There are some great roads in the Hunsruck, the bonus is it tends to be very quiet. I've spent good time riding the roads east of Trier with little about. Loads of pristine hairpins to piss around on.
The road in the first part of 3. is a good one, popular with local riders too.
The shore line of Konstanz is beautiful, speeds can be slow though. There is a decent biker cafe near Singen, worth finding if you can. Dont miss the roads near the Hohentwiel either, a few tasty hairpins
7. looks spot on too.
Should be a decent route.