Jump to content

pilninggas

Free
  • Posts

    1,312
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    29

Posts posted by pilninggas

  1. I've noticed a lot of threads on whether a 125cc bike is capable of touring, so I thought I'd add my two penneth.

    Based on my last 7 days, yes they are.

    Over the last 7 days, I've covered 468 miles, none of it on motorways. I took a 4-stroke YBR-125 and I didn't have a single hiccup.

    Last Saturday, 210 miles in 6hrs 15. South Wales to North Devon. Problems: none except chain had to be tightened a bit the next day. Mostly A and B roads.

    Wednesday, 57 miles in 1hr 30, North Devon to South Devon. Problems: none. Mostly cross country A and B roads. No breaks.

    Friday, 198 miles in 5hrs 50, South Devon to South Wales. Problems: none. Half on normal A roads, half Dual Carriageway A roads, maintaining around 60mph on duals.

    Oil levels have hardly changed since leaving home. Haven't needed to top anything up.

    MPG, approx 100. Getting 200 miles to a tank at a little under a tenner a tank.

    The only real problem that occurs after about 80-100 miles... sore behind :), had to make a lot of short breaks to relieve a few sore parts!!

    Also for those that have been wondering... yes it is possible to take a 125cc across the severn bridge on a L plate. There is a pedestrian/cycle path crossing the old Severn bridge next to the motorway (M48) which motorcycles up to 50cc (according to the sign) are allowed on. They let 125's across as well.

    i used to live by the severn bridge, myself and a mate went over to mid-wales one day (on L-plates, 15/16 years ago) and his bike broke down. So i gave him lift back pillion. I went on the cycle track and as you will not know, it is quite bumpy. Where the track changes from deck section-to-deck section, and i was doing 55mph (mad i know). Anyway i went over one of these changes and the bike pretty-much took off and my mate nearly came off the back. When i stopped to rejoin the road on the english side, he gave me a right good wack!!!! :rolleyes:

    As for the rest of your post, totally agree on my rxs 100 i went all over the place, never had a problem doing 250-300 miles in a day, though once i passed my test it was easier as i could used the motorways if i needed to.

  2. just buy the sprockets with the chain as a set, if you want a different ratio, give wemoto or fowlers a call and see what they say for recommended sprockets.

    What sort of adjustment is on the shock? if its rotary, just turn it to apply more compression of the spring, it should go back to lowest setting eventually if it is the 'ramped' type. In the tool kit should be the spanner to do it - i say this having never seen one on a yzf750r, i'm just guessing!!!

    be careful buying 'lightweight' sprockets, an aluminium inner with steel teeth is fine, but an -all aluminium sprocket will not last 5-minutes, as ally is just too soft.

  3. Thanks for the info, so DID or EK is the best chain.

    what about sprockets, any recommended ones.

    I use the bike all the time and have some fun at the weekends :D ..so needs to be fast.

    any help on the preload adjuster.

    Thanks again.

    just buy the sprockets with the chain as a set, if you want a different ratio, give wemoto or fowlers a call and see what they say for recommended sprockets.

    What sort of adjustment is on the shock? if its rotary, just turn it to apply more compression of the spring, it should go back to lowest setting eventually if it is the 'ramped' type. In the tool kit should be the spanner to do it - i say this having never seen one on a yzf750r, i'm just guessing!!!

  4. Hi all, right I am in need of new sprockets and chain but dont know what to go for

    These are the choices I have

    )-Rinf or X-Ring Chain ??

    O-Ring Chain (never heard of) 1st Choice

    2nd Choice

    or ....this one

    and....

    an AFAM Set sprockets and Chain (520 Race) ,,,what does that mean??

    Whats best for my bike.

    Soooo many choices..

    Thanks

    ok, well first off no.1 is an iris chain, they are cheap to buy and i had one on my FZr1000, they do not last long, mine would stretch significantly on one afternoon ride, i would not recommend it for a yzf750.

    No.2 and 3 are boy triple SSS, these are similar to iris, but maybe slightly better.

    The standard chain for the yzf750 is a 532, this is funny size and so the above will be 530, which is normal conversion to do (as long as you do not run standard 532 sprockets, unlikely)

    No.3 is a Race chain and is 520, this is a lot lighter than 532/530, which makes it good for racing as it means there is less unsprung mass, however being a lighter gauge it will not last long (probably longer than an iris 530 though!!).

    personally none of the above is probably the best option, i used to buy cheap chains until i had one snap on me at 90mph (it decimated the swingarm and nearly took me out) and so i would say spend the extra on DID, EK, tsubaki etc. M & P, wemoto or local bike shop are probably the best sort of places to get a chain and sprocket set.

    Many chains are described as Heavy-duty, physically the links maybe heavy duty in size, but the steel that is used may be inferior and so they are weaker and less-robust than some high-end medium duty chains

    hope this helps.

    merv

    p.s. i remember the last chain i bought was from a bearing factor who sold me a heavy-duty DID chain by-the-link for £45ish and i bought the sprockets from my local yam dealer (fowlers).

  5. Temp gauge barely moves on it.

    Would you expect worn jets on a bike with 20k on the clock? Valve clearances easy enough to check?

    Cheers

    the jets may well be worn at that sort of mileage - they go oval as the needle vibrates in the orifice (ooh 'er missus) and ovals the hole making the bike run rich.

    Not done the vlaves on a 'cat, but have done em on an exup...usual stuff its the time-hassle of getting to them thats the biggest problem.

    of course you could sort both these things and not solve the problem. You might just have to investigate both. For jets/needles google a company called allens.

  6. I have no way of being able to test that because the bike wont even start now. I do believe my friend and I have diagnosed the problem, we think the flasher relay is junk, and it needs a new one. Could this be the problem?

    well if its drawing power when it shouldn't do or its drawing to much then its possible. the first is more likely. surprising its having that effect, but bike electrics can be very sensitive to constant small current draw.

  7. Hello,

    I have a 1986 FZ600 and it was running great for awhile, but it started acting weird when I came home this weekend to ride it. I started it up last night, and it ran fine, but after a few minutes it just went dead, even all of the idiot lights and tach/speedo lights went out with the key still in the "on" position. I then turned the key off and back on again and the lights came back on and started right up again. I then go to ride today and it does the same thing where it just goes dead, and I tried turning the key on/off again several times with no luck. There is just no sign of any power to anything when the key is turned on. Can anyone please help me or steer me in the right direction? Thanks!

    a quick check is that the battery connection are tight. a couple of bikes i have had over the years have had these symptoms and it has been the terminal connections being slight loose.

  8. to be honest i think they are a load of old rubbish!!!

    they use a different needle and jet and basically overfuel the bike, this does provide a bit more power, but don't ever fit one if the bike is not running right, it will not make it better!!

    If you needle jets are worn-out by direct-replacements or use a factory-pro kit (i have never used one but they seem better).

    I fitted a dynojet kit to a bike and the jets had visibly ovaled in 2000miles! oh and mpg went from early forties to low 20s.

  9. i'm after a yamaha dt230 lanza which was never made for the uk

    yeah, that's pretty grey!!!

    rare as hen's teeth i should think!!

    why not give BAT motorcycles a call, they have always been grey specialists (albeit sodding dear)

    merv

  10. Does anyone know of any good dealers that import second hand yamaha's

    been looking but cannot find

    all suggestions welcome

    what exactly are you looking for? a grey import?

    your best bet maybe to use biketrader.co.uk for a grey, other than that why not look for a UK/parallel model?

    mervyn

  11. no-one elses as replied to this topic, so i thought i would.....

    .....go for it.

    i reckon the mt03 would be a great touring bike. good economy and simple design. don't worry about all the other stuff. i bought an xj6 in spetember, but i have reasonable experience of continental touring and know fully the xj6 will be upto it. my main criteria for touring are , comfortable (high bars and with upright back), good economy and reliable. you bike should be all of these also.

    my last trip i went down to bavaria on my knackered fzr1000 (my tdm850 had been written off by a car driver a week before) and whilst waiting for the ferry, i spoke to some nice people who have full touring bikes (big honda things) who had been to normany, fair play, but it was very ironic!!!

    my parting advice is run light and don't be afraid to tour alone. use the excellent hostel network abroad (if thats where you are going) to keep costs low.

    good luck

  12. Hi Mike,

    just my 2pence, whichever R1 you get i will be jealous! What i would say is that you may be better off with injection than with with carbs. The reason is that lots of big yams with carbs tend to suffer with wear of the needle jets and making them run right can be a real headache. Injection should be okay, and if you can find one with a power commander then hopefully any glitches will have been dialled out.

    Other than that check the usual stuff, due to the bikes pedigree.

  13. Does the bike have a fuel tap? If you ever run out of fuel you will need to set the tap to PRI (stands for Prime) position for a minute or two before setting it back to ON or RUN or RES

    its probably self-priming as it is EFI.

  14. thought that would grab your attention, i mean tips, do you know any good ideas as to how i can spruce up the clocks and rev counter dials and plastics on my rdlc.the plastic is scratched and the dials have badly faded,

    If you could strip the dials down and get the clear plastic bezels out, you could go to a sign maker and see if they will laser-cut new ones out of clear acrylic?

    For rejuvinating the black binnacles, you could try to wet and dry the scratches out and then repaint (using plastic primer/acid etch primer to start). Some car interior renovation materials might be useful - has halfords got anything?

    I occasionally read the classic car magazines and there are often good advice and also suppliers for specialist stuff for these kind of jobs - do you know anyone who might have some you can borrow?

    good luck

  15. So failing to display is still the offence here because the starting poster said there was NO disk. So not legal.

    Funny how a one poster has got a thread going this far. :rolleyes:

    not surprising really, as the old saying goes 'there are only two things certain in life death and taxes...' :blink:

  16. this should settle it!

    "As a result, from the 1st of September 2008, those buying their vehicle tax

    online, by phone or by post will be able to legally continue to drive their

    vehicles for up to 5 days while they wait for their new tax disc to arrive.

    This will only apply where the new tax disc has been applied for before the

    current one expires and motorists should continue to display the expired

    disc on their vehicle, until the new one arrives."

    http://www.dvla.gov.uk/pressoffice/pressreleases/280808_09.aspx

    http://www.avonandsomerset.police.uk/information/InfoCentre/ItemDetails.aspx?sid=936#4

    ...oops these links have gone dead, i'lll see if i can find newer ones!

    this is it:

    http://www.dft.gov.uk/dvla/pressoffice/pressreleases/archive2008/280808_09.aspx

  17. this really gets my goat!!!

    twice in the last year i have bought new bikes (im not rich, the 1st one got written off by a car driver), and in both cases when i have gone to the dealer to pick the machine up there has been no tax.

    In each case i have allowed 14 days from putting the deposit down until collection and have sent insurance documents in within 3 days of placing the deposit.

    In both cases the dealers made fairly lame excuses, but left me riding a bike home without a disc and without being 100% sure it was road legal. The pain is that you can't really enjoy the bike if the legality of it is unclear and parking on the highway is iffy.

    i'd love to know why dealers are so slack about this? both bikes were on 0% finance, i just wonder if it is so the spend out less until the finance company pays them the balance? the cost of the tax is always small compared to the deposit.

    either way the feedback the manufacturer gets is sh*t and so it could affect the dealers bonus etc.

×
×
  • Create New...