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pilninggas

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Posts posted by pilninggas

  1. Hi there. Yea heres what you need to do:-

    Remove Seat

    Remove 4 bolts holding grab handle on

    Pop off one plastic fairing retainer on the top and two underneath of the left side fairing. Dont use a screwdriver on the bottom of the fairing, use an hex key or something similar with a 90 degree bend to push it out from the inside. It takes a min or two to locate due to being hidden by the frame etc but then light pressure will push out the middle retaining rod.

    Remove the fairing.

    Remove 4 bolts holding on numberplate hanger (avoid letting it dangle in case you damage the wiring)

    Under/near the metal plate you will find a plastic cover where the wires from the numberplate and indicators enter the bike. Pop it off

    Where you remove the fairing locate the wires leading from the indicators etc and roll back the waterproofing cup for better access.

    I marked up the female and male connectors with a pen to make sure they went back in the same place.

    Remove the cables carefully to ensure you dont damage the connectors. There will be 6 connectors to remove.

    Now you can let the cables slide out and remove the old hanger

    When installing the new tail tidy be sure to think about which order the the nuts etc (if using aftermarket indicators) should be in. I didnt and ended up having to pull it all apart again because the nuts were on the wrong side of the tail tidy (Doh!)

    Use cable ties etc to make sure wiring is out of the way.

    Before reassembly check indicators hazard light and numberplate light are working correctly. Quick flashing indicates a new relay is required for lower wattage bulbs. Slow flashing or hazard lights not working most likely indicates higher wattage bulbs...find some lower wattage ones...standard are 10w.

    Reassemble

    Check out my tail tidy in my garage! Let me have pics of your bike when you are done!

    Adam_Fozz

    nice write up :)

  2. Hi guys hope you can point me in right direction, tried to start my wacker tonight and nothing ! been stood in garage for a couple of years checked oil, new petrol, will start when squirt fuel down plug, into carb so suspect blocked jet ? by the way checked fuel cock and fuel there removed bowl as well ,cannot go further at mo don't have socket to get carb off.

    Any advise appreciated

    Phil

    Have you put fresh fuel in? If not i'd drain the old petrol out and get some new stuff in. A bit of easy start into the inlet will probably help too. GL.

  3. Has anyone had a look at the LeoVince SBK Underbody exhaust for the XJ6. I am looking for a local dealer instead of getting off the continent.

    JHS Racing near me (keynsham, B.A.N.E.S), are Leo Vince agents. Google for their number. Doubt they will be competitive on price, but worth a call.

    I'd buy off of the continent if it is much, much cheaper; having said that the Hein Gericke near me will often match EU prices if ou speak to the manager - they did with my Givi rack (maybe other places will do the same).

  4. Oooooooooooooooh Lose that background!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    if you join up DT, i might just change it! :P

    On a more pertinant note; I consider this forum the daddy of the XJ6 forum :grouphug: . This place really seeded it, there of lots people on her who ride a 2009+ XJ6 with no model specific forum [until now of course]. Like Jim i will still be around here (maybe more :lol: ), but the forum will be useful for issues and debates for the XJ6. :thumb:

    I think it'll take a while to catch-on, having said that Yahama UK (and Europe as a whole) have sold a lot of these bikes, so there must be a decent number of potential members out there.

    :beerchug:

  5. looking to get an r6

    i have 3.5k to spend

    i'm interested in low insurance all pre 2004 are group 14 witch is a bonus when your 22.

    2000-2003

    Love the 2003 the most upto date without going to group 15.

    The only problem i can see is its the first edition to have fuel injection (was this a problem)

    are the earlier carb'd models a better ride?

    thanks in advance matt

    Matt when looking at any Race Replica just apply some real common sense. Go for lower mileage (less thrashing) and better condition. It is a buyers market, so don't buy anything that raises any doubts in your mind. Try to go for a fuel-injected model, as they tend to be more reliable. Look for a caring owner with service history (nothing wrong if they have done it themself - imho ). And only buy with sensible modifications, not daft paint-jobs or bolt on tat. Avoid anything that has racy exhaust if the owner does not have the original in with the deal.

    Look at lots, heck you may be able to bid sellers down if you are the only person viewing.

  6. Hey hey hey :D nice one Mervin, is it the ABS version ?-hope to see some pics soon, keep your hands on the grips of this one and not behind your head ;):lol:

    nah not ABS, just bog-standard pull-n-pray!

    Well ware = may your bike age good with little trouble ;)

    Yeah i hope this one lasts, i had designs on doing 60,000+ on the last one :unsure:

  7. Good man yourself Pilninggas.

    Hope you enjoy this one every bit as much the last ! They do indeed seem to be a very good bike.

    At that price ya cant go wrong

    Best of luck to ya and,,,,,,well wear

    :D

    yeah hopefully this one will last a little longer!

    -not sure if i'm wearing well, maybe wearing out! :patty:

    Good one Merv, will we see it at squires this year...you can buy us a pint with the money you saved. :D

    Will do :beerchug:

  8. After getting knocked off my last XJ6 and the bike getting wrote-off, i didnt imagine i'd get a new one for the same price as the first (£4100). However today put a deposit down on a XJ6S from George White for £3999 on 0%.

    Chuffed to bits...only downer was dropping the TDM coming out of work....oh well you win some you lose some.

    Will be glad to be an XJ6 owner again, they are so underrated it is unbelievable.

  9. the 2-smoke boys will be along to enlighten us all in a bit. as far as i know the energy induction system is designed to reduce the pulsation effects on the inlet, as the crankcase draws in charge. i dare say that the engine also 'sees' a larger vacuumed area may also help the engine to develop more torque lower down in the rev-range. knowing yamaha it is probably produces complex harmonics too (them being musical instrument makers and all :D ).

  10. don't lose interest with this bike will you Foams?

    should be a good build and if you have a spare turbo, I'll take one for my xs :lol:

    Yes Foamy, finish this properly and you have a reasonably desirable, appreciating classic.

  11. Fkn ell " :o plinney, was that on standard bore, ?

    i think it partial'd at 42000 miles and i went to 1st oversize.

    i always ran with the oil pump 'turned-up' a bit anyway. Solid little bikes really, i scraped it in the end as i had chucked it up the road a ton of times and the rear suspension siezed solid and resisted all attempts to free it off.

  12. I had 2 RXS100s, the first (picked up on my 17th Birthday) I did more than 30,000 miles with (don't know how much more the odo broke). The second one i had was pants tho, never made as much power.

    Shocking front brake on them, totally not fit for purpose.

  13. Unfortunately not BWJ. The local council is saving the cash for Diwali, the Elf & safety people have said no to drinking and congrgating in the street and the dustbin men have said that they will only collect the normal amount of recycling rubbish (every two weeks) so it will take 18 years to get rid of the extra cans.

    haha quality.

  14. so when I take off those valves and have a look at those floats what next to do? clean them and it will work fine? or is better to give that to some specialist for carburators.

    each carb has a float bowl (you can remove them with the carbs on the bike, but it is a pig). Take the carbs off, flip them over and take the float bowls off once at a time. You may well see muck in the bowls (off course it may now be on the chamber ceiling, as the carbs are inverted. I usually clean these deposits with thinners, WD40, carb cleaner etc.

    Each float bowl chamber, will have a bank of floats, these are orange plastic (check each one for holes or damage as this will cause problems). Very carefully remove the float pivot pin (don't lose it!). Then ease the float out and the valve 'torpedo'. Clean those orifices (oh-er missus).

    My experience is that you will see specks in end of the hole that the 'torpedo' sits in, you can blast this away with WD40/straw. When reassembling, you must seat the float o-ring correctly - i always use a tiny, tiny amount of fairy liquid to ensure this happens. When playing with the floats you may put the float heights out, all I can suggest is to go very carefully and treat all the parts like they are made of gold leaf. You could of course set the float heights----

    These carbs wear out badly, google fzr1000 emulsion tubes for a whole host of trauma. Tuning them is a real challenge, the ones on my EXUP have been off tons of times. At the moment I have my spare TDM carbs (the same type Mikuni CV downdraft), they are worn on the tubes (perceptible amounts of ovalling) and the float heights (fuel levels) were out. This all leads to rich running. Look at your exhaust is it sooty? If so the carbs are rich and may require work.

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