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Posts posted by pilninggas
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Replaced the plug/cap recently?
This
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That truly Sucks Kev. Far too many people who don't give a fuck about other people's property in this country. No punishment if they are caught.
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I live in a big old house which has been converted into three flats. I have been keeping my bike in the hallway but I asked my neighbours beforehand and they were fully understanding and had no problems at all with it. I've got home today and I've got a letter from the landlord wanting to speak to me about it, I know it's a fire hazard etc.
I'm gutted now I'm going to have to keep it outside chained to a metal fence. It's going to be a sought after target for bike thieves.
you are not having too much luck!
I live in a deprived area, which has a higher rate of crime. Last year I built a garage, but before this all of my bikes were outside. Apart from kids wanting to piss around with it when it was uncovered, it was generally ignored - Get the best lock you can buy, as said by Dirty a decent cover and chain the bike to the nearest solid bit of iron that is fixed to the ground.
I can understand the landlord's concern - it is probably violating his insurance policy and would leave him without cover in the event of fire; it is also not ideal to have containers of petrol indoors, for your safety and your fellow tenants.
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no idea, that's all i could find from Porlock hill. seems modern vehicles have better brakes
love riding up Porlock hill, tanking past cars cooking their clutches @30mph up the top by the cattle grid.
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http://www.ventura-bike.co.uk/fitments/Yamaha/1065-yzf_r125_y_.aspx
good compromise for the R125.
Tankbags are okay - but even if careful they can scratch the paint; especially so if you have something heavy like a chain and lock. I have one, but use it as a tail-pack. You could use soft-panniers, beware of them getting caught in the wheel or burning on the exhaust.
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I wouldn't put it past insurers to check tyre sizes and whether they're standard sizes, eg Bennetts state you must tell them if you use non-standard sizes http://www.bennetts....on-quick-guide/ it's also worth remembering Metzeler in the US actively encouraged XVS1300 owners to use a 180/70-16 tyre but when I asked Metzeler UK if it was ok, they said they could not recommendit in the UK due to different rules and regs.
I just think we've almost been brainwashed into this mentality - i've had 1 zx6r and 1 xj6 written off in the last 3 years by idiots in cars. Both were modified, and both were dealt with - without prejudice - by the insurers. I think unless you have a totally non-standard paint-job or a nitrous-bottle they don't really care. Obviously declaring mods is better, but they are clearly more worried about non-disclosure of claims, convictions or usage (all of which are clearly fraud). I think they know that they would have to prove that the policy holder had carried out the mod, and that it was not done by a previous owner and basically gone un-noticed.
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I wouldn't honestly worry about insurance issues - unless the change in size is too extreme (bead does not sit properly, is forced in etc).
All the insurance company will be interested in, in the event of an accident/claim is that they have legal tread, no damage prior to the accident (that could have been foreseen - failed sidewall etc) and are not marked 'not for road use'.
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Yes have a good one!
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Just goes to show what a load of old EU nonsense these tests actually are - expected to wring a bikes neck in the wet, totally daft.
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Would you lads like a dating section added to the site "
& Bring a bigger tent to squires next time,,,,
You're just jealous John
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As Drewpy said super 97-100 RON is only really useful in engines running a higher compression than standard, more ignition advance or boost. A higher octane number does not make for better petrol, it makes for a charge more resistant to knock. At present only BMW motorcycles uses knock sensors which can allow the engine to get more power running on super, don't waste your money.
It is also a myth supermarket fuel is inferior, the British and EU standards for fuel compel the manufacturers to very narrow variations in formulas.
Ethanol, aside from perishing fuel system components (at concentrations above 15/20%), also makes the fuel hygroscopic meaning it will 'go-off' [absorb water] if in the tank for more than a few weeks. In theory above 15/20% the vehicle should be running 'flexfuel' sensors that can alter injection criteria to maintain the stoichiometric ratio (unleaded 14.7:1, ethanol 10:1ish).
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Superb pics merv so you are in Germany now eh, whats next?
haha, no i'm back at home now!
I went to Arnhem and Nijmegen to see where Monty messed up Market Garden - the Rhine is a formidable beast cutting through Netherlands, no wonder it was such strategic barrier for the Allies and the latterly the Nazis/Wehrmacht. I crossed into Germany so I could go over the Rhine a bit further up.
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Here are some of the pics:
Hook of Holland:
Peace Palace AKA The International Court (where megolomaniacs like Slobodan Milosevich get tried):
Near Haarlem:
Afluitsdijk, linking Holland to Frisia:
The German-Netherlands border near the Rhine:
Dock on the lesser Rhine:
A submarine and an Enigma machine:
btw, i edited some of these in photobucket to be the correct way up, but they are still on their side - i will try to fix.....
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Off to the Hague first thing tomorrow. Going on Eurotunnel and then staying in a Hostel (£18/night).
Been to the Netherlands before, but not seen 'Holland', hope the weather holds out (partly why i chose it, Lux, Black Forest, Ardennes all have rubbish forecasts).
Bike pretty much all loaded up for 7am start - plan to ride up the polders/dikes from Antwerp to The Hague. It'll be the first time I have toured with a topbox (nice to be able to secure the helmet at any stops).
It's about 450miles each way, plus any touring around I do whilst there. Back on sunday.
It's what the XJ6 was made for.....
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Just wanted to tack onto this topic myself. I had a cylinder seize on my YZF and have bought a replacement engine.
I just wanted to pick every bodies brains as I am not a trained mechanic and not got a vast amount of experience with bikes.
I just wanted to know the best way to extract the engine and install the new one. Are there any specialist tools required or can it be done with a basic tool kit. P.S. I've seen people using hoists,is that essential?
Many thanks in advance!!!
might have been worth starting a new thread for this.
having taken out, and refitted an FZR1000 engine (which is externally much the same lump) a few times, i would say it is fairly easy. Refitting you need to get it back in in the correct order, but you will see that when you refit.
i lifted the lump on my own - it aint light, but it can be done. make sure you have tons of bits of 4x2, 3x2 and plywood for supporting and resting the engines as you move them around.
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Starter button seems ok with no obvious damage to it and no damage I can see to the right side of the bike, luckily my body cushioned the bike haha but can't really check anything as battery disconnected. Pulled up the rubber boot covering the wires/terminal on the starter motor and all seems ok there terminal looks a little rusty?? Electrics are and always will be a black art
between the battery positive and the positive of the starter motor will be the starter relay - it switches the high current >20A needed run the starter motor. If this jams or the connections are damaged it can cause the motor to spin with the battery connected and nothing else on.
Speed Camera Scramblers
in The Bar
Posted
i'd rather take 3 points and a £60 fine, than an appearance at court on perverting the course of justice charges. Very likely to rile a traffic or TST copper if they find it on your bike, a real tin-opener for a can-of-worms.