pilninggas
-
Posts
1,312 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
29
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Yamaha Racing News.
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Classifieds
Posts posted by pilninggas
-
-
-
One of the only games I was any good at on my brothers Sinclair was Pippo. Some kind of hippo / space hopper you controlled and used to change colours of the floor tiles while avoiding gaps and evil characters. The more difficult levels had tiles which went through multiple colours.
Clearly I was too young / stupid to remember the actual name and used to call it Bippo. I can assure you all that its not because I resemble the character, honest...
I loved that game, it was properly addictive - spent many wasted hours running away from flashing springs.....
-
Thanks for the replys guys, I am very new to mechanics, so I'm learning as I go. What are emulsion tubes ? and just how hard is it to undo the header nuts, I have been told that it is very hard to undo them, without snapping them off !
Emulsion tubes are needle-jets in the carbs. They wear out on big, mikuni-carbed yamahas and cause loads of misery.
As for header nuts, try graphite-based penetrating fluid and heat [run the engine]
-
1
-
-
@25,000miles you might want to check the state of the emulsion tubes - if they're worn then performance will be very poor and economy useless.
Keep us posted.
-
Yam seem to getting better at this, as do Kwak. My 11 Fazer doesn't clunk at all and has a box that could grace a zook.
-
That footage is incredibly poignant, what with the sad events of last week. That London is gone and will never be seen again, and I wouldn't call the changes progress.
-
Don't forget to up the rear preload if you can and if doing high, sustained speed whack a couple of extra psi in the back tyre. Personally i'd say give the pillion a job to do - navigation, as it gives them a focus and will let them relax. Agree a communication system like taps on the shoulder etc.
-
Hi guys,I've got the SC project exhaust on my 2009 XJ6-N, but am struggling to understand how the baffle is to be removed.Is anyone able to shed any insight on the baffle removal for this specific exhaust? As it is not clear to me, and I am struggling to find any info elsewhere on the net!
why not send SC project an email?
-
Similar experience running in an XJ6N. 1st full tank went for 161 miles and refilled with 13.1 litres. That makes around 55.8mpg. My old Bandit 600 was similar and would routinely die on to reserve at 170. Not sure how much the tight new engine mitigated by light throttle use makes a difference. Will keep a check. Actually say I'll keep a check, but probably get bored keeping note and from now on just ride the thing
Bare in mind the XJ6 tank is a couple of litres smaller than most bandit tanks; iirc my XJ6 would do more than 35miles with a flashy fuel indicator with moderate riding.
-
i've ran the bristol half; 1hr50mins - enjoyed it.
-
My mate's bike was taken in the first service (the free labour, just pay for the parts @600miles/1000km). Part of the service was to balance the throttle bodies [if needed]. When it went in it was fine, when he picked it up it was vibey - he got it home and did balance again, they set them all wrong!!!! He phoned them up and gave them a right rollocking.
I bet they've done the balance wrong.
-
1
-
-
Soft luggage leaks, there is no getting away from it. When i have used it, the contents have been put in bin-bags first. As they have told you they are not waterproof they have covered themselves. Small consolation, I know. Even a lot of hard luggage isn't totally water-ingress proofed. Personally hard-luggage is the only way forward. Once you've used it, you'd never have soft luggage again (maybe a small bag on the seat or rucksack for away-days).
I'd be gutted if i spent a grand on them though.
See if they'll refund you [credit note] and sell you some hard luggage?
-
Thanks airhead and blackhat, I think pilningas has already pointed out that he knew the road in my video that I posted in the videos board, lol, seems he knows his way around the area
Nice to meet you all!
This is a great forum - amongst the very best.
For local rides try googling:
4counties
and
wiltshirebikers
I ride with both (and with my long time mates).
WB went down to West Bay today [superb ride 5*], 4counties are riding to Brecon next sunday. There are always tons of rideouts round this way and people are friendly.
Notable rides within shooting distance of Bristol for me are: Fish Hill, Malvern-British Camp, Gospel Pass, Hirwaun-Treochy-Ogmore, Abergavenny-Hereford, ZigZag hill, Taunton to Minehead, A35 (all the way), A39 Bath to Devon and A30 start to London.
-
1
-
-
Also remember 125cc bikes have a price premium, as they are in far more demand. Don't limit yourself to 'just' 250cc as there have not been that many to choose from since the early 80s. Just look out for bikes that are recommended for novices. A couple of grand will get you something reliable - but get quotes from insurance companies before you buy any bike (use an online search), a R125 is quite steep on insurance as loads have been crashed/pinched and the insurers aren't too keen. More CCs does not mean more expensive.
-
looks like the A38 at Star - i know this road well.
-
Keep the swingarm clean. It's steel and box-section and older yamahas have a history of these rusting through, where they are fitted.
-
I rode my old RXS100 round for a whole month without the clutch, as I couldn't afford a new cable.
paddle away from a stop, straight upto second.
overall, you have some iffy luck.
-
Well I took the carbs apart, all stock items and settings, glaring omission though....not one carb had a main jet in!
I would imagine that could be my problem!
-
You'd think so wouldnt you, but I cant find the standard settings online have tried "yamaha thundercat standard carb settings", most things just come up about dyno jet etc.
Its got Thundercat carbs but the airbox has been cut and shut to fit it under the tank.
plenty of haynes thundercat manuals on ebay - they usually have all the stock settings for the carbs specified.
An air leak will kill power dead (and the engine potentially), so that needs looking at. I have ran bikes with hacked airboxes, in my opinion it is what happens from the mouths of the carbs onwards that affects power and mixture, As long as the airbox filters air it should be okay.
you're going to need to look at whether the main jets are original, whether the emulsion tubes are worn or have been drilled, whether the float heights are right. I have been here before, and I would say pull the carbs off, get them clean and tear them down one at a time. Replace float bowl screws (they chew up) with allen socket bolts. make a float height gauge (i use sheet ally) and get stuck into it. Do one carb at a time.
Good luck.
-
Anyone know if the solenoid from from any other Yamaha will fit this bike.
if you mean starter solenoid, pretty much any starter solenoid, for any bike can be made to work.
-
Don't assume anything about 'services' done by the supplying dealer. Have you checked the OIL LEVEL? unlike a car the clutch rides in a bath of oil, if the oil level is low it will make the bike (a) have a clutch that feels awful, juddery, slipping etc (
make the engine torque break the clutch, if the low oil level doesn't break the engine or gearbox first. Check this before you drop the oil to get at the clutch, as parts are expensive, a top up of oil is a few quid. -
Well, I had a play around with it all last night and although Its not cured yet i think im heading in the right direction.
First things first, checked the battery connections and they were a little loose, i had a GSXR in the past that had a fault and that was just the battery connections not being as tight as they should of been. I hoped it would be as simple as that, it wasnt, but the symptoms were perhaps slightly better.
Next I drained the old fuel, found a bolt in the fuel tank and drained the carbs. The float bowls all had screws that were basically only finger tight, if that, and some had fallen out alltogether. I have now taken them apart and cleaned them all and re-tighted all the screws.
I then took it for another spin and it was a bit better, even pulled clean to about 10k in a couple of gears but not consistently. The symptoms now seem to be anywhere between 6k and 10k rpm.
I will attach some pics in a bit, the modified airbox sits ok on the carbs but perhaps isn't the tightest fit it could be.
My current thinking, is that it ran better the second time because the battery had a bit more charge from the first run, rather than anything to do with the carbs. Does this sound plausible?! It makes sense to me as the previous owner said it ran fine before and i probably let it sit for a while before i started it and have never taken it on a long ride.
I currently have the battery off and charging, and will try it again later.
Im trying to check the simple stuff first before i waste money on new electrical bits and bobs.
Sorry if this is all a bit jumbled!
The poor running is probably not related to the battery - if the bike runs, the electrical system is probably reasonably good (although as i said in a previous post coils [or plugs] could be going down under load. Things like the CDI and pickup either work or they don't.
looks like your fuelling is off, but don't discount blocked breathers, blocked fuel filters, blocked air filters etc. If someone has taken the carbs apart they may be all over the place.
-
Hi All,
First post so, Hi!
I've been racing CB500 and various other bikes for a few years but fancied somethign a bit different so got myself a FZR400RR with a 600 thundercat engine conversion. This was all done buy a guy who has done a few of these conversions and to my knowledge has all the required mods etc, and uses all the Thundercat loom and the tank sits higher to accomodate the thundercat airbox.
Right, now my problem....
Stationary the big starts and runs sweet as a nut, BUT when i put it in gear and try to ride the bike it won't rev past 6k rpm. Getting up to 6k rpm it is as smooth as anything but hit 6k and its just bogs and barbles.
Logic suggests its quite a simple fix but i have no experience of these bike really so not sure where to start. I have read about throttle position sensor problems but its so smooth up until 6k (and past in neutral) so that makes me think its not that. I could be wrong. Someone suggested it could be the carbs being block as when it draws from different jets one of these might be blocked?
Could it be the ECU is knackered?
Like I say, logic (mine anyway!) suggest that its something simple, a component failure of some kind but I have no idea what one?
Any help greatly appreciated as am hopefully doign a trackday on it in a coupel of weeks!
Cheers,
Matt
Simple checks:
Trapped petrol pipes [pinching when the tank is refitted?].
Blocked fuel tank breathers.
Coils knackered -check impedances and check for arcing to the frame.
Does the bike have fresh fuel - stale fuel can do give these symptoms with bigger four cylinder engines.
For me it's likely one or both of the first two, particularly as the bike has a non-standard tank position.
HTH
-
Both of my XJ6s got 45-55mpg. With 70mpg @ 70mph on the motorway [did dover to bristol on one tank].
make the engine torque break the clutch, if the low oil level doesn't break the engine or gearbox first. Check this before you drop the oil to get at the clutch, as parts are expensive, a top up of oil is a few quid.
FZR 250 Inquiry
in Naked
Posted
A good friend of mine had one of these. They rev quite highly and are very complex for a 250cc machine.
I would say only buy it if it is for part-time leisure use. Cycle parts are interchangeable on many Yamahas, but the engine is only shared with one other machine (the Zeal?). Look for something a little more mainstream if you want a daily driver.
Also ensure it has had regular oil changes - remember it has all of the complexity of some big bikes, but none of the performance and parts may be very difficult to track down.