fosdyke
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Posts posted by fosdyke
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1 large & 1 medium pleeze (in Black)
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Romney Marsh bike show and jumble on tomorrow.Hoping to find some spares for the old Xs .www.elkpromotions.co.uk/
Always worth a look I have had some great bargains here + this one has the classic bike show as well
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Thaks for the prompt reply.
Didnt think it would really be economically viable anyway. 20 yr old bike/first bike and will have it for a minimum of 2yrs.
I think at the moment i will just do what i can with the 6V
no doubt i,ll be adding more questions in the future
regards
Tom
You can convert if you can find a 12v battery small enough - though you will have to change the rectifier and all of the bulbs! The generator should provide plenty of charge for a 12v system it's just the rectifier that cuts the wave down to 6v.
Hope this helps
If you don't mind the lights going dim when you slow down stick with 6V!
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Hi webi, no way it will weigh half a kilo...thats only 1 lb in old money so thats mis information. We do have an expert on this bike who is a member here, he will put you righ about many aspects of this bike, he doesnt come on hare a lot though. he is 'fosdyke'
Thanks for the nod - have been a bit quiet on the forums as I was up to my ears in work
Back now though
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Dunno Phil but if it were me I would leave it for at least a month to cure fully, then lightly key it for the new coat.
Nooooooooooooo!
It's evil stuff - I made the mistake of wanting to 'improve' the lacquer finish when I painted it. I ended up having to take the tank back to bare metal and start all over again - it acts like nitro-mors on anything sprayed on top :0(
Admittedly I haven't tried over-spraying a year later. If I feel brave enough I might try it and let you know.
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my 1981 yb100 (1 owner from new) been standing has a slight electrical problemo, headlight doesnt light up and indicators dont flash, only light up
help? advice?
regards Dom
Hi Dom
The headlight will only work with the bike running as it is powered from the flywheel magneto. As to the indicators they are always a bit of a problem on this bike - my experience is that a) They run better with the engine on!
You need to have a good (fully charged battery) c) As the electrical system works on an earth return system the 'ground' on the indicators needs to be good for them to work well. I have never been able to get mine to work terribly successfully just on the battery - joys of the 6v system that was never really designed to power indicators I suppose..... -
... my girlfriend has given the ultimatum "get it going or get it gone" and i dont want to lose my bike.
Hi
For information the points are located behind the flywheel on the l/hs of the bike - you will need to remove the gear change lever to take off the cover. Replacement requires you to remove the flywheel with a puller, and if done you should replace the 'woodruff key' on re-assembly. The points are easy to change - harder to set up - you really need a dial gauge which is able to measure the exact degrees before TDC (top dead centre), though I have been successfull using a protractor!
However before going to all this trouble I would check out some basics first: Fault sounds electrical so check for a spark at the plug by removing the plug connecting it to the HT lead and laying it on the cylinder head - kick over the engine - you can do this with your hand and check for a good blue spark at the plug. If you don't have a spark with the plug, check for one with the plug and suppression cap removed. Still no spark you need to check the LT (low tension) circuit which you can do with a multimeter to check for current at the points when they open or close. If you have a current here the fault is probably with the HT circuit - coil/HT lead/suppression cap. Difficult to test these - you can check for resitance in the coil (sorry don't have the readings to hand and you can check visually the HT lead where it screws into the supression cap - you often get corrosion here.
If you have a spark and it still don't run problem will either be timing (broken woodruff key, no fuel or poor compression. Compression you can test by putting your thumb over the open plug hole and kicking the engine over - the pressure should almost force your thumb off. Check for fuel by kicking over the engine a few times with a dry plug and then checking to see if there is fuel on the plug.
If you have fuel/spark/compression it should run - it may not run good, but it should run.
Good luck - keep persevering and don't get rid!
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It sounds electrical to me... are you getting a apark?
I agree electrical or timing out - unless the electronic iginition as packed up.
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Are all RS-X 100 6v systems or did they change them later?I am picking up a 1995 model this week and was wondering whether to take a torch with me lol.
Take the torch! I'm fairly sure it will be 6v (unless a previous owner did a conversion) - but someone else might be able to tell you more about the later models - these guys are pretty good!
Good luck
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I'm appealing to all you friendly bikers.
Without a picture how do we know if you are 'appealing'!
Hope you find what you are looking for happy NYE!
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Old YB100 models that were left standing for a long time were prone to rust the main bearings. You may well get things moving, even get the engine running, by using "freeing oil" as suggested, but don't be surprised if the mains are shot. How will you know - the noise will tell you !!
Also check the big ends as well - again lots of rumbling/scraping noises
Can get an idea of main bearing failure by checking 'movement' when manipulating the generator flywheel.Good luck
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It has been dealt with
Good - thought that might be the case - would join it on principle!
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Sorry thats not me,
I was at work when this person was born .... or perhaps I was born aged 16 ? and Rundle is not my surname and I don't live in London. But I have now signed up for facebook so lets see if you can find the real me
Regards Jim
My mistake Jim - there are 2 on the forum one 'Jim(space)R and you - without the space - what a coincidence! I take it all back and send you my most humble apologies.
However it illustrates my point about privacy as I am not a 'friend' of Mr Rundles but I could read ALL of his posts, know he owns an R6R, his date of birth etc etc etc.
Have fun on FB - I think its a great way of keeping in touch and sharing stuff with your 'friends' - and don't forget to sign up for the YOC group.
:D :D -
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@Ttaskmaster: Connections seem OK. I've undone them, they were/are not corroded and look shiny in general. Still I gave them a little cleaning with contact cleaner, just to be sure.
@fosdyke: Thanks dude, I will eventually buy one. Heck I would have already if halfords would sell more than "pink accessories" and snow chains...
Thanks for the advice people. But before buying a new battery, I would like to know how to diagnose this one. If this happens again, I will know what to do. And because my charger will come next year or later, when I really won't need it, all I've left is to think about what I can do :]
So anyone knows if I should top up this particular model of battery with de-ionised water?
Also, what is the tension that should be measured at the battery terminals when the bike is running? I measured mine at about 18V at idle and a little less (17.25V) when revving... sounds good?
Cheers,
Pedro.
You have nothing to lose by topping up with de-ionized - if it's fecked it's fecked you aren't goin to make it worse!
I would expect about 14-15v on charge so 17/18v sounds ok - top it up and give it a blast, if you can jump it do that to get it started then take it for a long ride with the lights off to minimize drain - then see if it starts in the morning.
Good luck
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Hi everyone,
My virago 535 does not start. - I can't ride!!!
On to the facts. One beautiful day it did not start. The starer cranked the engine a few (1 or 2) times and then stopped. Now it just does half-turns and the neutral light fades. Seems obvious: it's the battery.
So I jump-started it with another bike and later with my car. Started perfectly both times.
So I've ordered an intelligent charger which I'm waiting for for the last two weeks. Meanwhile I took off the battery to find it completely dry - no (liquid) electrolite in there [t's an yumicron YB12AL-A2]. Measuring the beast with no load yields 13.0V.
Question: Is 13V indicative of a good battery? or a bad battery? Or is it irrelevant because there's no load in it?
Question: Should I top it up with distilled/de-ionised water? The battery case has got some electrolite level lines (max and min) painted outside, but I read somewhere that this battery has one of those "absorving" plates that soak up the acid mix to prevent spilling... I'm confused!
To make matters worse, this weekend is supposed to be sunny, my bike does not run and I'm off to Snowdonia - to the rain. Argh!
Thanks in advance,
Pedro.
Pedro - certainly sounds like the battery although these bikes do have problems with the starter clutches as well. However the jump start would seem to indicate not.
If you have no electrolyte in it then you would need to top up with sulphuric acid which may be difficult to get hold of - and DANGEROUS to handle - don't use it without taking appropriate precautions! However that being said I have never successfully been able to ressurect a battery that has gone dry - so you may be better off, given the forecast for the weekend, splashing out £25 on a new one.
Hope you get it sorted.
Enjoy the weekend
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Focus needs to be on better training, restriction on vehicles and frighteningly serious enforcement of road laws.
For what it's worth - I think that most of the 'training' that you get today (admittedly better than before) is totally inadequate particularly for young, inexperienced riders. I agree there should be some parity between car and bike riders, but what people may be overlooking is that at 16 you can be let out on the road with a day's experience and, generally only 2hrs of that on the road! Learner car drivers will for the most part have to complete around 30 hours of training with an instructor, before taking the test - all of which will be on the road. There has been a tendency in recent years to rush people through 'courses' from 2 - 5 days, and think that this will make up for experience! I have seen this in training youngsters to sail - you can do a 2 day course and get your level 2 with NO real experience of different conditions! When I learned we underwent weeks of being exposed to the techniques and skills of basic sailing BEFORE we were officially assessed.
The problem here of course is how do you do that with a 'solo' machine? - So perhaps there is an opportunity for candidates to 'learn' under the same conditions as car drivers - ie not in a condensed and pressured course - spending as much time as they (or their instructor needs) 'off road' and then putting in the hours on the road - it could be done an hour at a time perhaps until they are ready - this would give candidates better experience of the road, their bikes etc etc and should be done for ALL novice riders regardless of age. What you will find with experienced car drivers, (and I speak from personal experience) time spent driving in traffic, and anticiptaing what the other pr**s are going to do is invaluable. Then maybe - particularly for these riders we could skip the 125cc restriction and move up to say 250/300 - the biggest problem I had when doing my DAS was the lack of opportunity to practise because of the restrictions! For me to have contemplated anything much bigger than the 500cc bike I got after passing would have been suicidal, given my sheer lack of riding experience - again due to the restrictions.
I don't think that just youngsters should be restricted - but ALL novices - and car drivers too. Our licenses are considered to be 'probationary' for 2 years - a restriction could run alongside this perhaps - only now do I feel ready to try an R1 - and I am still learning and improving.............all the time.
off soapbox now! -
Hi
dont forget compression testing a 2 stroke is not relieable. given this bike has a striped cylinder stud the may indicate a lack of compression but they tended to start and 'pop' thro the head gasket with the cylinder head not torqued to spec. Back in the day the YB suffered other ways with running/starting problems, The major one was incorrect ignition timing .. if this was too far out you got no spark and if you were lucky to get a spark the plug glazed/fouled within no time, hence clean plug & no spark.. I would not lend anyone a compression tester to do a 2 stroke as all that oil mixed with the fuel will get into the tester & ruin it & I used the finger on the plug hole method (if your finger got hot/blown off compression is sound).
Regards Jim
Agree with Jim on the first bit - obviously with a questionable cylinder head, the compression test is not necessarily going to be accurate. As to the thumb on the plug hole - my YB pulls 150psi on a compression test but can barely blow my thumb off - and runs fine. So if your thumb isn't blown off it doesn't necessarily mean compression is low - the only way of satisfactorily confirming low compression is with a tester. (Jim I've had my tester over 20 years and used it on countless bikes and cars - and it still works perfectly.)
Two strokes are pretty finicky over ignition timing although the adjustments are fairly small but they will at least run (maybe not long and maybe not good) if the timing is enough to give you a spark - I was assuming that you had tested for a spark by removing the plug and whilst holding it to earth (not with your fingers!) checking fo a fat blue spark on every kick.
Keep us up to date on progress.
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Ok, so i think I've found the problem. Turns out the head gasket wasn't sealing properly because one of the cylinder rods wasn't tight enough. Looks like I've ripped out the threads on the engine block where the rod screws in.
I'll add some Super Steel epoxy weld to it and hope that the rod can stay in tight, and report back as to the success of it. I'm hoping this works.
cheers,
atocp
Hi
Let us know how you get on - but with this bike the state of the battery is irrelevant as it is a magneto start system and the battery is only for the secondary electrical system. You need 3 things for the engine to go: 1. Fuel, 2. Spark, 3. Compression seems you may have 1 & 2 (but check the plug smells of petrol) but do you have 3? See if you can borrow a compression tester - this bike is relatively easy as the spark plug is a larger size so you can use a car tester! You want at least 100psi when you kick it over - and remember to open the throttle fully and kick it two or three times before taking the reading.
Good Luck
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Thanks for getting back, all i can say is i think the fuel delivery is fine but i will make the effort to check more thoroughly many thanks.
Hi
Have same problem on my kawa at the moment - but I am fairly sure it's a fuel mixture problem - when you open the throttle the mixture goes weak and the engine dies. Are you using a standard airbox etc - you could also check for air leaks on the inlet side of the carb, check your float heights etc. My experience with dying on acceleration on 'normally aspirated' engines is that it is nearly always a fuel problem. The only way of really checking the CDI/igniter etc is to put in a 'good' unit and seeing if it makes a difference.
Let us know how you get on.
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Hello all,
I wonder if anyone could tell me what other bikes have the same forks as the yamaha rs100 with drum brakes.
Mine are too pitted to do anything with for the mot.
Seem to be like hens teeth on ebay.
Bike isnt worth a lot so have to be on the cheap.
Rechroming etc would be too expensive.
Any information much appreciated.
Craig
Hi
You could try the forks from an RXS100 - or even maybe a YB100 probably similar.
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That is so daft its brilliant.
This isn't the Jawa Foamy's looking for........
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Just thought i should let you know.....
I'm getting married
Many congrats my dear - all the best for the future.
You need to have a good (fully charged battery) c) As the electrical system works on an earth return system the 'ground' on the indicators needs to be good for them to work well. I have never been able to get mine to work terribly successfully just on the battery - joys of the 6v system that was never really designed to power indicators I suppose.....
off soapbox now!
yamaha rxs 100 with a tzr carb on [ same as a dt carb ] 26 mm mikuni carb
in Yamaha Workshop
Posted
Have to agree with OG
Tuning carbs is a black art especially on a stroker (they have to 'breathe' properly) - I have have been trying to get my (4s) kwak balanced across all gears and throttle settings with non standard filters for over a year. Each time I think I've fixed one problem another one appears. I would start by going back to the original carb, jets, needle height etc and get the bike running right. Then if you really want to tune it, start by changing one thing at a time or using matched parts - airfilters to jet sizes & exhausts etc. TBH if you get the bike running OK on the standard settings you will have something that's pretty quick anyway.
Sorry this is probably not what you want to hear....