s900t8v

Made up new clutch brake and throttle cables today an fitted the mirrors. Ah it's almost done! Can't wait to ride it! Ill post up some interesting gear ratio calcs god I've been indecisive about whether or not I need a ct bottom end. At this stage (again) I'm thinking the ag will be ok lol.

mirrors and stuff came today... but no clutch springs its at the point of ridiculous, stuff I ordered from china 2 weeks ago is arriving, whereas my month ago ordered springs are no where to be seen... seat should get here by friday!

SO THIS HAPPENED stupid walked into it when I wasn't paying attention so looks like I'll have to order a complete other set, I guess then I'll have spares and its ok cos they are only 35 for 4x delivered lol, still annoys me when this stuff happens.... edit; glued it back together will see if it holds up to all the vibration... then if not ill order another DIY chain guard came out welll, gave it a quick drill polish along with the side cover to see what everything will look like... stuff came up well! i've found a ct 175 - im going to use the bottom end and build up an engine with all new bearings and seals, as I recently foudn out the ag has retarded gear ratios lol ... the primary gears are different and 4th and 5th gear ratios are different, eveyrthing else in the bike is the same... the ct 175 probably also has all the stuff in the engine to drive a tacho so i'm glad I held off on buyng a tach...

wet sanded the tank with p1500, clear is nice and flat now, just ordered some megs 105 and 205 and will hit the tank with the drill buff to get it popping! still got a fair few cosmetic bits and pieces to do - I decided I'm not going to reclear after laying the vinyls... I dont mind a hard edge on the YAMAHA... I guess if I change my mind I can always reclear later. cosmetics still to do - order new seat (tomorrow) - apply vinyls to tank - cut and buff tank - MAYBE wet sand oil pump cover headlight brackets + housing + cut and buff these - they're smaller so not so obvious if not perfect - paint cylinder + cylinder head gloss black and sand/polish fin edges - paint centre hub + spokes black, leave rims chrome and polish alloy hub faces - buy some brown handlebar grips other - install mirrors (waiting on) - clutch springs (waiting on) I've removed the ridges from the clutch basket and am going to use a good racing oil for the gearbox I found in dads shed - measure squish and mill head + sharpen squish band edge - bore out cyl to dt 175 reed block + buy boyesen reeds - clean up the ports things I may need to do but am trying to avoid - new front brake cable/front brake shoes - POR tank - its fairly rusty! -

Check your crank seals. Are you using gearbox oil? Bung the intake and exhaust and pressurise the crankcase with 5psi from a bike pump. If if leaks down the seals are bad. Not more than 5 psi is needed.

will paint the bracket etc all black when I get time,,, mounted it much lower, looks way better http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx177/ejgrae89/IMG_1356_zps9565c602.jpg just fabbed up this chain guard with some aluminium and an angle grinder, I drew some lines I am trying to think of a way to make it look less shit lol - ideas welcome in other news I clearcoated the tank, headlight housing and oil reservoir, the headlight housing is installed and everything is wired up, all my wiring works too which is nice... STILL waiting on my clutch springs from the UK, I ordered them 3 weeks ago. I would love to know how another item I ordered from the UK 4 days ago was in my mailbox today, and soem stuf I ordered 10 days ago from china too... these willies on ebay are telling me they sent them but they've been lost in the mail or they never sent them.

thanks but I'm not sold on the tailight position, it was easy to mount it there with an unused handlebar retainer but I am thinking of making an alloy bracket to mount the tailight lower down, that way the number plate can act as a stone guard which may help me get through roadworthy without a rear guard! pics later today once I figure it out

figured out where to mount the tail/brake light and trimmed the front blinker stalks think the brake light is too high, will try mounting something lower down, but I mounted it this high so I could mount the rear guard off the blinker and not have it interfere with the seat.... basically I think I should stop being cheap and buy the seat then make everything else around it still waiting on mirrors and flipping clutch springs... also Have to figure out how to make the neutral like work lol - the tang off the gearshaft has actually broken (which actuates neutral) just my luck also the instrument illumination bulb is not grounding with key on for some bizarro reason, has been working fine but just cooked it lol

ok so it was just that I didnt have all 4 indicators properly earthed lol . then they wouldn't blink so cleaned the contacts in the flasher, now they blink had to remove the stalks from the rears so they would clear the exhaust... will probably do the same for the fronts... the stalks are too big and goofy anyway. with the stalks removed the distance is 30cm from bulb to bulb which it has to be to comply with australian design rules... these cheap ebay turn signals have SAE approved stamped on the lenses which is what I need to pass Roadworhty. in other news the horn is open circuit (bad magnetic coil) so I have bought another.... I think I am going to need new front brake shoes, the old ones got contaminated with oil/grease and I think the hub is glazed so wil have to wet sand that. The problem is that being an ag bike I am not sure whether I should buy CT front brake shoes, or DT front brake shoes. I am thinking CT as the rest of the bike is 'ct'

Na that's for rear guard. It's too thick and wrong diameter. Ill have to make something up to mount them on the rear. Lol. And I can't put them there anyway Cos exhaust will melt the signal.

I dont know where to mount the rear turn signals, there are no brackets or mounts. Where were they originally/ there are no holes n the frame that will fit them and the exhaust is in the way.

ok I think now I get it, I didnt have all 4 turn signals installed... I think that I need to as the circuit not in use will ground the flasher bulb and flasher elay properly? I will mount them all properly today and also run some backup grounds.... Bit stuck on where to put the rear ones....

so my big enduro repop turn signals arrived - I kinda like them more than I thought I would... I wired them up but it seems that there is some kind of power/earth issue. I finally got the turn signal light to come on in the speedo as I know that is important for the load aspect, but it seems that when I turn the switch to the left - the turn signal comes on brightly as it should, but when I turn it to the right it the left signal comes on dully, so there must be a problem with the turn signal switch. I am trying to think of a way to test the circuit, I may just buy some aligator leads, remove the flasher unit from the bike and test it that way ... its still kind of confusing me but it seems like.... 6v is fed from battery to the turn signal switch via the brown/white wire, when you choose a direction on the turn signal switch this either routes the 6v down the dark green or dark brown wiring circuit (left or right) via the flasher relay.The 2 turn signals come on brightly which draws enough current to trip the flasher, it trips, cools down and reconnects and repeats. The earth is provided through the mounting bolt of the turn signal. so at the moment I am not sure if my problem is the 6v feed or the switch.... I guess what I need to do is remove the dark green pin and dark brown pin that come from the turn signal switch and test to see that there is a solid 6v on each line when I turn the signal, I need to check to see that there isn't 6v on both lines when 1 direction is selected (this is what I think the problem may be) I will then disassemble the switch to see if there is something I can fix there. it seems liek the light in the speedo is earthed by the turn signal switch by grounding the other indicator wire. I also need to check the bulbs and the rating on the flasher, as the bulbs may be 10w and the flasher may be 2x17w ... that may be the other issue... I think I have the mounting location sorted for the fronts (under the headlight off the forks) which isn't stock but I think will look better. the rears are a bit tricker as one runs very very close to the silencer. I would not want to melt it.... I may have to mount them both off the rear tail light bracket.

I was looking at tinytach/mini tach and they do 6v, but I was hoping I could get an analogue one, perhaps I will have to go to mechancial drive lol.

Which ones go well? The one I listed is a 12 volt unit

hey all my ag 175 doesn't have a tach, now I could spend the money buying a CT enduro tach + tacho gears + tacho cable (prob easily up over $100) now it would look awesome and authentic and maybe I wil eventually but for now I am wondering if any of these analog $15 buck units will work from china? that run off the coil? thoughts ? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400755854126?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

hey mate thanks for the compliment! I was very confused when trying to figure out what the parts interchangeability is from an ag bike... well I've said it a dozen times differently bt after checking the cylinder I am now pretty convinced that the AG bike is pretty much a CT2/CT3 enduro 175 without the tacho, and a variety of other cosmetic bits and pieces slightly different (handlebars, tank, etce etc etc) Not a lot of parts will be compatible with the DT, if its a 4 bolt head DT 175 you have then the bottom ends are interchangeable (crank included) although the CT cranks aren't slotted for oil, whereas the DT 175 cranks are I think... aaaaaaaand an update Ok so I did a bit of painting over the weekend, the clear coat really makes the green shine - and flattens out the orange peel a lot so I wont have to do much wetsanding/cutting/buffing to get it looking mint Today I replaced the fork seals and replaced one of the fork legs which was heavily damaged with one from the spare bike (man what a pain to disassemble!) I had to stick some dowel in the fork tube then throw it in the press to stop the damper rod that the m8 allen bolt goes into (which you need to remove to replace the seals) not the mention the metal seal was rusted into the fork tube! HOW DOES THAT HAPPEN WHEN THE TUBE IS ALUMINIUM :S - --- man is it nice to have fresh oil in there, the stuff in there was brown with rust and just disgusting. put some synthetic in and the damping is quite good now. Also stripped cleaned and regreased the steering head bearings, they were very gritty/notchy - the races are damaged but I want to try get through roadworthy - its just adding to the $ bill which isn't that high at the moment but I want it to be a cheap toy. Only the headlight housing brackets are cleared at the moment and you can see how much more gloss they have - the forks need another coat of paint and then a sand and then clear _ I just wanted to see what the bike would look like! - cant believe I am using 10 buck cans of acrylic laquer and its coming out so good (I sprayed my car grille with $8 acrylic laquer with no primer 18m ago - and it hasn't chipped faded or worn away _ I am very suprised how decent this stuff is coming out of a can these days) the tank has a tiny ding I missed which I will have to sand and fix before clearing. the oil tank is almost ready for clearing as well. I will hopefully just spray it all at once - just gotta wait for some sunshine because a bit of temp really helps the clear flatten out.... MY CLUTCH SPRINGS STILL HAVE NOT ARRIVED! I am livid I want to test ride this beast with no clutch slip!

ok well after all the reading in the forums I decided to just properly scratch out a port map could not be happier! I compared this to the ct2 enduro 175 port maps I have and they're almost the same.!.. looks like the early ags ended up with ct parts! (makes sense as a lot of other parts from the bike are the same as the early ct series - ct style (small) reed valve, same swingarm, forks, brake light bracket, battery case, guards etc) here I was thinking the ag got a completely crappily ported cyl! ag 175 exhaust duration is approx 20mm = 144 deg transfer duration is 11mm = 76 deg the port heights etc all match the enduro cylinder Exhaust 19mm high 40mm wide 32mm from top of barrel = same as ct2 transfers 25mm/13 wide 11mm high top of port 41mm from top of barrel = same as ct2 inlet 18mm wide at boost port 38mm wide at base bottom of port 86mm from barrel top of port 46mm from barrel so the only difference is the inlet, on the ct enduro 175s the bottom of the inlet is at 80, and the top at 40.... giving the same duration but the boost port is lower down on the ag cyl meaning it gives the power at lower rpm - ideal for the ag bike... the motorcross/hopped up ct2 port diagrams show that the ideal inlet duration is from 37mm to top of port to 87 to bottom of intake port... (aka the boost port is higher) so to achieve this I just need to raise the boost port a few mm - doing this should raise the power up into the rpm range.. at the moment the ag boost port height makes it very torquey low down but lame above 5000 the motorcross port diagrams also show that the exh duration gets increased from 32 from top of barrel to 27 from top of barrel - aka raised 5mm... this brings inlet duration from 144 to 188 or so degrees - this should help the motor run hard right out to 8-10k instead of 6500 the transfer also gets raised 1-2mm bringing it up from 77 to 85-90 degrees again helping the bike make power higher up the range. gnarl kill! pumped for my new clutch springs to arrive!

Legend! Ok the ct 175 cylinder is 38mm wide so ill have to grind out the inlet a little. I want to fit a dt 175 one cos it's bigger and can go to boyesens

Hey that's ok. Na Australian yamaha shops aren't much interested in helping people with 40 year old bikes haha. Cheers. Ill probably just buy one. I wanted to know the reed cage dimensions cos I want to fit the dt one into my ct cylinder. It's bigger and I can go to fiber reeds.

any updates on this thread, is it worth doing?

does anyone have a dt 175 reed cage lying around?

ahhhh yamaha so smart thanks for that!

hey all just wondering why my yamaha ag175 has a small drilled hole in the cylinder wall that connects through with the exhaust port. all 3 of my ag cylinders have this its baffling me I can put up a photo if people dont know what I'm talking about I am wondering if its to drop the performance of the engine>? cheers

Yeah I have reduced te travel of the forks. I am just going to use heavy fork oil to stiffen the forks up a bit. I was going to put a spacer in to increase spring rate but no need. I guess if they bottom out and damage the seals ill reconsider what I've done but for now I'm happy. Now I have what looks like factory racing team port maps I am going to properly map out the ag cylinder but it looks like the ag is performance restricted cos the exhaust duration is around 140 degrees whereas on the enduros duration is closer to 180. This makes sense leaving exhaust duration short to maintain low end power on an at bike. So the first thing to try before porting will be 1-2mm spacer under the barrel to increase transfer and exhaust duration an see how It performs