aunty

23,00 anit too bad, as long as the oil and oil filter are changed at the correct intervals. Take it easy on her at first, building up your speed slowly over time, then if a problem arises sort it then. The one bit of solid gold advice i would give to you and ANYONE reading this article is.. if you have a bike or car with an engine thats done over 3000 miles (anotherwords fully bedded in) buy some stuff called "ZX1" its an oil aditive that comes in a bright yellow box that you can buy from all sorts of diferent places inc Halfords, this stuff was used by people who race engines inc off shore power boat racers and the Ferrari formula one team. I used to destroy engines on my race bikes a lot more regularly before i used this stuff and i wouldn't run my road car or road bike without it!! its hard to explain here.. but go search it out then read on the side of the box what it does... Trust me im not getting paid to say this crap its brilliant!! and it will make your engine last about 3 times as long!!

i'd say if everything lines up ok and all the spacers fit fine, the disks line up with the pads exacty, and most importantly... the sproket lines up with the chain ok (check that the chain sizes are the same!! as a slight diference here could be a headache to say the least... you can find out off the internet from someone who sells chain and sprocket sets for yamaha's) If all this is ok the it will be fine, the wheels them self will take the extra power without even slighty being bothered about it, (this i do know!) and the 180 rear on a r6 compared to the 190 on the R1 will hardly be noticeable (unless your planing to do a british superbike round on it soon?!? ) Let us know how you get on (just try her gently gently at first)

it eightther sounds like an over fueling problem...i.e a sticking choke... or possibly a ingition timing problem i.e a need for a new cdi unit. i would check the choke doesn't stick, then check none of the spark plug leads are arc-ing across (best way is to start the bike in a REALLY dark place, then see if you can see any small sparks jumping across from the leads any where) if this doesn't work, get back to us and we'll try and help you a bit more (trial and error my man!!)

Well its old advice but its the best... look on ebay. got most of mine from there. (what you after exactly?)

I would take that carb off again and go through it all step by step, making sure its all set up ok, and evrything is moving where it should be, then check the inlet rubbers are done up tight and haven't split as that would let in too much air. also make sure that your choke isn't getting stuck, i'd bet that'll sort it

Looks better than my 750 mate! nice little screamer

This is gonna sound strange to those whom have not heard of these, but Tomahawk tyres!! they are the ones who came out years ago with the first ever remould tyres... i know this sounds like suicide but i used to race with there tyres and i came 2nd in the 1300 open novice Championship with the Derby Phoenix on these little beauties. a rear tyre would cost me about £60!! and you could choose which carcas you wanted to use.. i.e michelin pilot sport, or bridgestone 010's or dunlop 207gp etc. Then they put on thier rubber.. which they get from Avon and you can choose the compound. i Used to have michelin carcases with there stickiest compound (which was essentialy a qualifiying tyre). My bike would do 170+ in a strait line and they have no probs with them at all! they even do tyres for V-max's.. so don't worry about them coming apart cause they never have yet! they even do coloured tyres P.s. i get nothing from telling you this as i haven't race for about 3 years and haven't spoke to them since then. They geniunely are great tyres- front and back. give them a look up on the internet. Dave. I belive they got the technology from retreading aircraft tyres, so its tried and tested.

If it was there fault for ordering the wrong shims, they are legaly bound to replace them for the right ones free of charge, or give you a FULL refund, as its not your fault, as long as you've still got the reciept...and you didn't take 12 months to get round to try fitting them

This was a tank slapper at 90 that sent me into the end of a farmers field gateway. me and the bike hit the post at the end of the gate way. The bike went up in the air... cleared the road and landed on its back wheel, then procceeded to go end over end for about 100+ yards. The only thing we could salvege was the engine, the right hand side peg assembley, the seats, the end can and the odd switch. Forks bent, swingarm bent, chassis cracked, wheels fooked, all pannels and sundries broke/smashed, tank split... Ohh how we laughed!! *cough* WHAT YOU THINK GUYS AND GALS??!

hi there, i used to race an R1 so i should be able to help out bud Too stiff at rear and too slow at the front, to me sounds like because of your extra weight (just over the average which is about 10.5 stone ringing wet i recon!!?!) the bike is sagging at the rear, altering the steering head angle, and the too stiff is compression damping (and possibly rebound but don't touch it for now) Always, in my opinion start with the preload! put a bit more preload on it and take a couple of clicks OFF compression damping. then take her for a spin and see how she feels, my guess is she'll feel a shed load better! If she is better but not quite right, tell me what shes doing in more detail and we'll take it from there. Hope this helps, Dave.

The pistons that push the brake pads onto the disc will most likely be very dirty and have filth stuck hard to there sides. You need to take the pads out, take the top off your brake fluid reservouir (try to put o bit off cloth around it to stop fluid spilling/splashing onto your paint work!!) pump the pistons a good way out (but not all the wat out!!) and then clean arond them. Best way i find is to use a bit of clean brake fluid and some very very fine sand paper cut into long thin strips.... put a strip around the piston and pull the one end of the paper then the other.. in a kind of back wards and forwards motion to clean around them, making sure all the time that the sand paper is nice and damp/wet with the clean brake fluid. Do this a little while till you get them nice and shinny/clean. then get a couple of strips of clean cloth and try to dry them off and buff them at the same time using the same kind of motion... then push the pistons back in, makeing sure that as you push them back in- they are going in nice and strait with a good even pressure all around. Do this to all the pistons on both sides of the bike, then pop your reservouir cap back on (topping it up if need be) Be advised.. its not a quick job!- take your time, and the better job you do... the better they'll feel when you come to use them! also before riding the bike, pump the lever a good few times to get some pressure back and try them out a bit at a time... like bedding in new pads type of thing. Hope this is of some help, let us know how you get on, cheers, Dave.

the trouble with that is, carb cleaner may take away the remainder of the grease thats in there, and any lubeing will be less effective as the grease should aid it from draining away

Have you tried checking your thermostat works, just replace it, it'd cost you about £25 and is do.

Though i best add proof of racing.

If its just a cable operated clutch, then just use a bit of engine oil, the thicker the better!