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baggie00001

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  • Current Bike(s)
    Yamaha DT125RE 2007

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  1. The registration is probably legit but the bike is a newer bike than a 52 plate. I'm pretty sure that the bike in the image wasn't even manufactured until 2004. Last ones were made in 2007. This looks to me like its a 2007 model because of the oval shaped indicators. They were square shaped indicators prior to 2007. I already have a 2007 DT125RE. If you look. The bike that is being sold is identical to mine. I think the bike is a 2007 but with a 2002 bike identity. If it were a car it would be known as a ringer. Not sure if the same name applies to bikes. This is my DT125RE 2007 bike
  2. I have sent an email asking the seller to confirm that the photos are of the bike advertised because i am pretty sure that bike was not made as early as 2002. I havent had a reply. Its not unusual that gumtree ads dont have the right manufacturer because its usually a drop down menu to select the manufacturer. Trouble is that it only gives options for car manufacturers and not bikes. I have advertised on there in the past and had the put "other" for manufacturer.
  3. I'm looking to buy a DTR125 as a rebuild project. I found this one for sale on Gumtree. Its odd because the bike is clearly a DT125RE but the seller says the Bike is a DT125 2002 model. Correct me if i am wrong but wasn't the DT125RE not made as early as 2002. I am suspicious that this may be a stolen bike with an older bikes identity. Any help or advice... http://www.gumtree.com/p/cars-vans-motorbikes/dt125-r-with-11months-mot-no-tax/110742313
  4. Ive got a dt125re 57 plate and i have just lowered my bike by 50mm. ( height at lowest point of seat) I made custom suspension links out of 3mm glavanised steel. The holes in the link are 21mm and i have drilled the centres of the holes 125mm apart. Its perfect for me now.
  5. Thats odd. Not seen one like that before.They are usually different to that. I still think it is restrictor though.
  6. I have a 2007 DT125RE. Ive done most of the mods mentioned in this thread. I have the power valve set in the fully open position when the ignition is turned on. Not tried to pin it fully open and would be interesting to know if it makes a difference if it is pinned in the fully open position. Fitted a full DEP pipe and blocked off the catalytic convertor pipe from the Airbox.( I used the nozzle from a standard silicone sealant tube. Wedged it into the hole in the Airbox and put the rubber pipe back on over it) Blocked off the snorkel that fits into the Airbox. (I used a blank rubber washer and wedged it into the bottle and the refitted the bottle) I think there are a few people who get confused which bottle that needs blocking off. Its not the one that fits on top of the carb inlet manifold. That one is a boost bottle. This is the one. Cut off the rubber restrictor on the carb inlet manifold and chamfered the hole in the rubber. Like this. Changed the stock Carb 210 sized jet to a 240. (Ive checked my plug and the 240 jet is bang on. I wouldn't recommend going any higher) The Bike already has great throttle response and runs cooler) I removed the rev limter by earthing the Green/Black wire that goes into the speedo. I am trying to get hold of the inlet rubber Airbox manifold from a DT230 lanza. Like this one. I did look into fitting some racing reeds. I liked the idea of the dual Boyesen type. I emailed them and this was their reply:- We list Boyesen Power Reeds, part # 666, to fit the ’88-’93 Yamaha DT125/R. Attached is a picture of reed # 666, and the dimensions are: length = 48.1mm and width = 49.1mm. Unfortunately, we do not list reeds to fit the newer Yamaha DT125re. Anyone know if these will still fit? The difference in performance is massive to what it was when i got the Bike. It was extremely slow at first and the rev limiter was an awful restriction on these Bikes. The Bike was being held back so much. It was like the Bike was telling you to change gear at 5000rpm. The most noticeable mods was definately the DEP Pipe and removing the rev limiter.The DEP is definately worth shelling out the coin. Removing the rev limiter costs nothing. I decided not to cut open my standard exhaust cos i will probably need to fit it back on along with the hotcat catalytic convertor for MOT purposes. As for the rest of the mods that ive done. I would say each one on their own doesn't really make a huge noticeable difference but when you combine them all together there is a big difference. The only thing that i'm not too happy about is that the power band is quite high. Easy enough to hit the PB in first and second but you have to thrash it through all the gears to keep the Bike in the PB. Maybe i will try a slightly smaller front sprocket.
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