gazward

There was a big break in the wires so it never worked well. Just trying to find this phantom earth and looking at all options Thanks Gareth

Not had a new ignition but the ignition has been apart, is there more than 1 way to put it back together? I always kept one wire of the meter on the red wire leading from the battery to the ignition and once ignition was turned it would make a continuous circuit everywhere on the bike. Out it away now not much the wiser but a few stellas to the good lol maybe things will be clearer in the morning Thank you for all your help

I was checking continuity of wires, and when i checked the red wire it went all the way to the ignition, but once ignition was on I could have one end of the meter on the red wire to the ignition and the other end to the frame of my bike and it still showed a continuous circuit. I am wiring it up from haynes manual Thank you Gareth

I have disconnected the rectifier but it still doing the same. Wires were broken around the steering head before I took it apart but they all ok now. I just can't see where the live wire is transferring to the chassis to make everything a continuous circuit Thank you for advice will go and check again tho gareth

Sorry guys I have gotten a multi meter, disconnected battery to charge it up and started checking wires. It seems as soon as I turn the ignition on the whole bike is connected to the live wire. i.e multimeter on red wire where battery connects and the other end will beep no matter what wire I put it on including the chassis. Anyone know where this troublesome earth could be? Could it be the ignition? Any Ideas would be appreciated as I really don't want to be taking it all apart again to see if I can find it. Or anyone local enough to pop in and lend a hand? I can promise tea and biscuits Thank you in advance Gareth

This is the second time of putting the wires back on, they all seem to be continuous and correct. (pain in the a**e to wire back up in behind the light LOL) I have wired it up according to the Haynes manual, Next sunny day I am out there trying to sort it and getting you guys some pictures. Charging battery up now Airhead the charge doesn't last very long when it is cold and the bike is not running. Rectifier is under tank not had chance to examine it yet, think it is in right way as I followed the instruction, but was wondering if it wasn't the right way would this have the same effect as cutting out all my electrics? Fuse is present and correct. Blackhat I've never been to Scotland maybe a challenge for me once done eh? LOL

No nothing at all, theres power coming from the flywheel but I am not sure what it should read. Battery is now discharged but it used to get power when i revved it. I am at a lost LOL before when it was bodged a little the indicator relay was only a 2 pronged unit instead of a 3. Could this be the cause either. Anyone want to come and have a look with me?? Be a good trip out for you blackhat LOL

Sorry guys I have finally gotten round to getting the bike back together with a new light. So I have put everything back together pictures to follow, looking good but now I have got no electrics working, nothing at all. I can get the ignition to turn the bike ready to start and to turn off the engine Checked fuses and power supply but nothing is happening with lights or anything. Could this be just me getting the rectifier the wrong way round, a bad earth or is there something really simple I am overlooking. Thank you in advance Gareth

WOOHOOO! Finally got my paint job back. Going to fit first thing and then post pictures. Sorry I have not been updating regular but been waiting for this moment.

have you checked all your earths? If you have a bad earth then sparking to and from the earth connection can drain your battery and stop it charging efficiently

It was suggested to me that if the bike was running and didn't have a problem with leaks or fuelling then I should probably just leave it as if I remove the surface rust it may leave a weakness in the tank. I was told it was due to it be stood for a long time with no fuel in, and if I am going to use it regular then it shouldn't rust up anymore. I've already sent the tank for painting now so I hope that is true. I am hoping for a completed bike which looks tidy, hasn't cost me the Earth and one which I wouldn't be scared of riding every day. i.e not concour, Thank you for your advice if it does start to act up then I would for certain give it a go. Gareth

Thanks Buzzer, at £400 he a bit steep for me, if I was working towards concourse standard then it would be a no bainer, but all I am trying to do this time is to tidy up the bike so that I have got a usable all year rounder. I took the tank and panels to Lant Lane in Tansley and they are going to do it for £150 but I have to do my own stickers Cheers Gareth

I filled the forks with 150ml of fork oil density 10, is this the correct type as Haynes just said fork oil or 30w engine oil

Starting to put it back together now As some of you may know I am trying to source a new rear mudguard, but until then I have braced the crack and just covered and sprayed the crack until I find one Comments please

Ok I have sent my tank and panels off to be painted and I need to find some decals, any ideas where I can get them from? If not an exact copy any which are near enough would do for me

Sorry for smaller pictures they are taken off my phone Frame after several coats of hammerite and a few of lacquer. I didn't want a high gloss finish on my frame and it is my first go LOL

More bits sprayed chrome

Here are some progress pictures Wheel before sanding Half way through Finished with a chrome spray to try and get the spokes back to the right colour Not sure on this chrome spray or not, I am just trying to get the bike tidy without having to spend a fortune. Think it will do until I can afford new parts.

Right, well I tried to update this last night and just as I had posted they had shut the server down so here goes again. Cost so far £168 running total £20 2x tins of hammerite £5 tin of lacquer £150 respray of all parts ready for decals £8 tin of chrome spray Total so far £351 I think LOL

Does anyone know where I can get my rs100 tank, headlight holders, side panels, stripped primed and painted in the Derbyshire area? how much should I be looking to pay? There is 1 dint in the petrol tank not too bad though. Thank you Gareth

No I haven't got a parts manual. Third pic down in listing looks to me as if there is a dent where the wires come out. Might be my eyes I am getting tired LOL Not sure if it is there as design or as a dint from misuse

Cheers oldgitonabike, I am not sure if it is the right one or not, mine certainly hasn't got that dint where the wires go in. Will keep an eye on it for now and probably take a risk if nothing else comes up. Could I also badger you for advice on the petrol tank shown earlier on in post? And thank you for all your help during my wiring days LOL, I have now found the problem if you look through the post. Is this a common issue? Gareth

Question, does anyone know if you can get replacement stickers/plating for the engine? Would like to replace the black and silver logo on side of engine but can't seem to find any replacement anywhere. Would I be better painting strip black and applying a silver sticker over it? Also I need new rubbers for the foot pegs as other ones are worn through. Cheers Gareth

Frame ready to have rubdown with wet/dry paper before it gets a coating of hammerite. From full bike to frame in a day. Finished rub down and have given frame a few coats of hammerite Also done chain guard, rear brake lever and rear springs in chrome paint. ( This is to tidy them up untill I can afford new replacements) Pictures will follow tomorrow I am all caught up with this post now Total cost so far: £168 and about 2 days worth of work